Maxwell screen for rollei: Hard to focus? Is it true?

Can the conversion be easily done DIY ?

Doc, as long as you limit the number of Yebisu while doing the conversion, you'll be fine. Actually, assuming H. Fleenor just shimmed the hood/screen upwards, you could imbibe all you want.

Included with my Maxwell kit were pieces of tape to shim the hood/screen unit up, away from the mirror. I placed a ground glass on the film rails and added tape till the viewfinder image and ground glass image were in focus. When I removed the Maxwell screen to re-install the original, I just removed the tape shims and everything was back to normal.

If you remove the 4 screws on the hood (pre-F models) and see tape underneath, you're all set. If H. Fleenor made other adjustments than just shims, you'll need a ground glass, and fewer Yebisu.
 
Yes exactly.

Couple other downsides the Maxwell advocates usually fail to mention:

1) The electrostatic charge of the plastic screen is a dust and crap magnet when compared to the orignal ground glass.

2) The surface of the plastic screen is very very delicate, easy to scratch, and requires considerable care in handling and caution to clean without spoiling it.

It is always a horror to me when, while focusing on a warm day, a bead of sweat rolls off my nose or forehead and falls *splot* right in the middle of my plastic focusing screen. Until the viewfinder can be safely disassembled and the screen carefully removed for cleaning, focusing with the sweat-stained screen is even that much harder!

Just want to let you know that I really appreciate hearing your view on the Maxwell screens. It's been very hard to find anything but raving praise for it, so this balance is really helpful.

Ditto to everyone else who is taking the time to objectively describe the pros / cons of their Maxwell screens.
 
Thanks for the detailed instructions, Mike !! :) I will give that a try .... now about the Yebisu ... :eek:

Doc, as long as you limit the number of Yebisu while doing the conversion, you'll be fine. Actually, assuming H. Fleenor just shimmed the hood/screen upwards, you could imbibe all you want.

Included with my Maxwell kit were pieces of tape to shim the hood/screen unit up, away from the mirror. I placed a ground glass on the film rails and added tape till the viewfinder image and ground glass image were in focus. When I removed the Maxwell screen to re-install the original, I just removed the tape shims and everything was back to normal.

If you remove the 4 screws on the hood (pre-F models) and see tape underneath, you're all set. If H. Fleenor made other adjustments than just shims, you'll need a ground glass, and fewer Yebisu.
 
I assume shimming is only required for bodies without the removable hood?

Only my assumption but if the removable hoods are spring-loaded they should adjust themselves to the different height and no shimming required (if the shims are in the hood, facing the viewing side of the focusing screen)
 
I assume shimming is only required for bodies without the removable hood?

Hi Brian, with the F series, the screen is pushed down towards the mirror onto the frame. The camera frame sets the distance the focusing part of the screen (the rough surface) is from the mirror and viewing lens.

With the earlier models, the screen is pushed up (towards the eye) against the hood frame by a spring clip. Because the hood frame, and not the camera frame, sets the distance, a thicker screen will have the rough surface closer to the mirror and viewing lens. Therefore one must shim the hood/screen upwards, away from the mirror and viewing lens (same distance as the extra screen thickness).

A picture would be worth all the words above, but I don't have one right now....

Edit: In the image below, you can see the lighter outer rim on my tele rollei. The screen is forced onto this rim, which is always the same distance from the mirror and viewing lens. Putting a thicker screen in won't change that distance. On the older models, the rim is on the hood. If you change the thickness, you change the distance to the mirror and viewing lens.

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I have the Maxwell screen in my K4B but do not like it much. I always have to use my magnifier to determine focus. I am seriously considering sending it back to have the original put back in.

The only reason that I haven't sent it off yet is that I have an Ikoflex Favorit that is an absolute dream to focus with. There is no guessing with it. It is either in focus, or out of focus. It has the original focus screen and I wish my Rollei had one just like it. Needless to say my Favorit is getting the brunt of the TLR work even though it is a heavier camera.
 
Just want to let you know that I really appreciate hearing your view on the Maxwell screens. It's been very hard to find anything but raving praise for it, so this balance is really helpful.

Ditto to everyone else who is taking the time to objectively describe the pros / cons of their Maxwell screens.
Same here, I have a great 3.5E3 and have dithered for a couple of years about a Maxwell screen. I currently have good eyesight and can focus just fine and after following this thread I'm not dithering any more. Thanks to all who have contributed.
 
Hi,
I mounted the Maxwell alone without difficulty on my 3.5 f. No cost therefore. Only follow thoroughly the instructions Maxwell gives you. My Maxwell screen has the microprisms, rangefinder and no grid. it is very much easier to frame and focus in ambient light. I love indoor shooting. The rangefinder and microprism ensure absolutely accurate focusing. Furthermore, while with the original screen, using the sports finder was almost impossible to focus, with the Maxwell is now possible (the rangefinder is no more dark and focusing is possible). wonderful the vision with the pentaprism! only shortcoming a slight drop at the edges when using the hood viewer (not at all with the pentaprism). This screen change your life with your Rollei. Rolleiflex (which in my opinion is the most ingenious and practical to 6x6 to be used) becomes much more cool and modern and the only fault it had (dark screen) disappears. very recommended.

Enjoy

Antonio
 
For anyone who has questions, I recommend they just call up Bill Maxwell and talk to him. Just be prepared for a long conversation :).

For the record, I have his screens in all my Rollei's -- not all with the same screen. It turns a vintage camera in a modern tool IMHO.
 
I replaced the OEM screens in my 3 rolleiflex’s and my pentax 67s with Maxwell screens. They are awesome and VERY easy to use. Some shimming was needed in the Pentax and my Rolleiwide, but thats not hard to do at all. Dr. Maxwell is loquacious and very knowledgeable and has a fine product, worth every $. I use the old style hassy 45 degree prisms on the rolleis as they are a nice addition to the cameras (with adapter) and they give a magnified and very clear image of the screen while protecting it from the elements. I did not like the OEM screens in either camera as they were not sharp enough to resolve fine detail for focusing.
 
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