lohrentz
Established
I got an excellent condition Iskra I from Oleg right before he stepped away. I'm thrilled to have this camera. Seems like a lot of scenarios for which this is well-designed. I'm shooting my first roll and I have a few questions.
1) I have an assortment of 3/8 --> 1/4-20 adapters, and they all protrude from the Iskra's 3/8" threads, so a quick-release plate doesn't work well with it. Is there some workaround for this, or am I limited to a) no tripod, or b) screw it on and off every time I use one? Do people just go hand-held with folding cameras?
2) My release cable doesn't seem to trip the trigger on my Iskra. It works on every other camera with cable threads. Is there something I should know about proper use of a cable with the Iskra?
3) The manual is a bit sketchy about how to use the self-timer, or perhaps I'm just dim. I take it that it is only to be used after winding and cocking, but how do you trigger the timer?
Thanks in advance.
1) I have an assortment of 3/8 --> 1/4-20 adapters, and they all protrude from the Iskra's 3/8" threads, so a quick-release plate doesn't work well with it. Is there some workaround for this, or am I limited to a) no tripod, or b) screw it on and off every time I use one? Do people just go hand-held with folding cameras?
2) My release cable doesn't seem to trip the trigger on my Iskra. It works on every other camera with cable threads. Is there something I should know about proper use of a cable with the Iskra?
3) The manual is a bit sketchy about how to use the self-timer, or perhaps I'm just dim. I take it that it is only to be used after winding and cocking, but how do you trigger the timer?
Thanks in advance.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
I like my Iskra, but it does have its quirks!
I have encountered the same issue with the adapters, but I only use the Iskra hand-held. However, a search on ebay will turn up spacers which will give the plate a more solid grip. I would be very careful of screwing anything into the tripod socket, since it doesn't appear any too sturdy.
A normal cable release works fine on my camera. As you've stated, the self timer should be used after cocking/winding the shutter; it will work with or without a cable release. Just be sure the flash sync/self timer lever (green on my camera) is set to "A". Otherwise, it sounds like you're doing everything correctly.
One more tip: be sure that when you release the shutter, you continue past the release point until you feel another slight click. This will release the interlock that allows you to advance to the next frame. This drove me crazy initially, until I figured out what to do. And of course, this may be specific to my particular camera. It is sixty years old and has become a bit cranky with age, like me.
I do hope you bond with yours. Once you've seen the results from that Industar, you'll be hooked!
I have encountered the same issue with the adapters, but I only use the Iskra hand-held. However, a search on ebay will turn up spacers which will give the plate a more solid grip. I would be very careful of screwing anything into the tripod socket, since it doesn't appear any too sturdy.
A normal cable release works fine on my camera. As you've stated, the self timer should be used after cocking/winding the shutter; it will work with or without a cable release. Just be sure the flash sync/self timer lever (green on my camera) is set to "A". Otherwise, it sounds like you're doing everything correctly.
One more tip: be sure that when you release the shutter, you continue past the release point until you feel another slight click. This will release the interlock that allows you to advance to the next frame. This drove me crazy initially, until I figured out what to do. And of course, this may be specific to my particular camera. It is sixty years old and has become a bit cranky with age, like me.
I do hope you bond with yours. Once you've seen the results from that Industar, you'll be hooked!
lohrentz
Established
Well I guess if it is hand-held only, then that kind of makes release cable and self-timer irrelevant.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
Take a look here on ebay: CAMVATE 1/4" female to 3/8" male Adapter Screw fr DSLR Tripod Camera QR Plate | eBay For $6.00 or so, it may be worth a try. Also, there are adapter bushings available that don't have a raised lip. Anybody with basic machine shop tools could grind one down to the right length in less than two minutes. Don't give up!
My humble opinion is that the Iskra, or any folder, really wants to be a hand-held camera. The leaf shutter will allow you to hand-hold down to 1/30, and 1/15 with a little practice. That's what I bought mine for, but then I have an embarrassing glut of other 6x6 cameras that I use for tripod work, and not everyone wants to engage in that level of self-indulgence.
My humble opinion is that the Iskra, or any folder, really wants to be a hand-held camera. The leaf shutter will allow you to hand-hold down to 1/30, and 1/15 with a little practice. That's what I bought mine for, but then I have an embarrassing glut of other 6x6 cameras that I use for tripod work, and not everyone wants to engage in that level of self-indulgence.
lohrentz
Established
That is interesting about the two-stage shutter release. I wasn't aware of this. I just finished the roll of film today and have a lot going on so won't be able to develop for a few days. But it is possible that I was getting stage one on the shutter with the cable release, and wasn't aware because the stage one shutter is nearly silent, but it doesn't advance until I push down more firmly.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
I'm eager to see results if you post them. Sounds like you have the same issue with the "two stage" shutter release; perhaps this is normal. I haven't had the opportunity to compare my camera with any other, though it is essentially new (from 1962!) and probably working properly within the sloppy normal parameters of any FSU camera.
That silent shutter is a nice feature. If there's any ambient noise, even wind, I sometimes can't tell if the shutter has fired. I wish I could say as much for my Hasselblad, which I certainly don't hand-hold at 1/15, either. The Iskra does open up some other options, and the two complement each other nicely.
That silent shutter is a nice feature. If there's any ambient noise, even wind, I sometimes can't tell if the shutter has fired. I wish I could say as much for my Hasselblad, which I certainly don't hand-hold at 1/15, either. The Iskra does open up some other options, and the two complement each other nicely.
lohrentz
Established
Fomapan 100, EI 400, D96 1+2, 46 min, minimal agitation
Well, I stupidly was trying out a new-to-me filmstock/developer combo and didn't get the exposure/development right to bring out the shadows. But I can see why people rave about the Industar-58. I did determine that my cable release was working to capture the image, just not release the interlock. Also, I managed to pull of a double exposure. How is that possible? If you do stage one shutter, without the interlock release, are you able to double expose?
lohrentz
Established
Double-exposure.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
Yes, you are able to double expose. It's quite easy to do so accidentally, in fact. So often, I've not paid attention and forgotten that I haven't wound the film on after exposure. I've cocked the shutter and fired away. Voila, double exposure! This is particularly likely if you haven't depressed the interlock, as the camera seems to have been wound, since the advance knob won't turn.
I've learned that the Iskra really demands my full attention when shooting. I try to have an inflexible routine for winding and cocking at the same time, for me immediately before each exposure.
Beyond that, your shot of the pup is exactly the look I love from the Industar. Well done! Though it's only a simple Tessar, there's some kind of magic ju-ju to that lens!
I've learned that the Iskra really demands my full attention when shooting. I try to have an inflexible routine for winding and cocking at the same time, for me immediately before each exposure.
Beyond that, your shot of the pup is exactly the look I love from the Industar. Well done! Though it's only a simple Tessar, there's some kind of magic ju-ju to that lens!
lohrentz
Established
Dumb question: What is the correct way to open and close the film back on the Iskra? I don't see anything in the manual, and mine seems a bit tight and difficult to open and close, but maybe I'm not doing it correctly.
Also, I just had two rolls of film go all the way to the end without pausing at 1. Is my counter buggered, or is there some secret button I need to push?
Also, I just had two rolls of film go all the way to the end without pausing at 1. Is my counter buggered, or is there some secret button I need to push?
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
Viewed from the rear, there is a small pull-down latch at the lower right corner. When that is pulled down completely, the back should lift off with a bit of a push to its right. Going back on, the lip on the right side must be engaged properly; it's easy to seat that lip on a more rearward inner edge of the body. I'm afraid this is almost impossible to explain, but experiment a bit and it should be clear. When the back is seated properly, a little push from the rear will close it completely. Follow up by pushing up on the latch. It should all work pretty smoothly, so if your meeting resistance, go back and start over.
Not sure what's up with your counter, but it may not have worked because the back was not tightly closed. It is possible to put the back on incorrectly and have it appear correct at a glance.
Sorry, no secret button. Which is a shame, since every camera should have one. Or is that what "program" mode is for?
lohrentz
Established
I definitely buggered my frame counter. Makes me sick to my stomach, so soon after getting a camera with proper CLA from Oleg.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
Sorry to hear that! I don't know the current status of Oleg's operations, but if you need another alternative for repair, Yuri at fedka.com could direct you to someone or perhaps offer assistance. Great guy; I bought my Iskra from him.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
There's one thing missing from both your pictures and that's the numerous little prick marks the counter wheel makes in the film , these
are located neat the very top and bottom of the negative . If there's a window in the back of the camera , then the counter was not working .
Peter
are located neat the very top and bottom of the negative . If there's a window in the back of the camera , then the counter was not working .
Peter
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/ser...2313.SEQ.0.jpg
Notice the many dots on the negative bottom . Peter
These are from the frame counter wheel that the negative rides over.
Notice the many dots on the negative bottom . Peter
These are from the frame counter wheel that the negative rides over.
lohrentz
Established
In June I bought some items from Yuri, and asked him about repairs because I have an M42 Jupiter-11A which doesn't focus beyond about 10 meters, but otherwise makes gorgeous images. He said that he currently cannot offer repair services, since his repair guy has had his world turned upside down in Ukraine.
Moto-Uno--yes, I'm aware of the dots. I cropped them on the above images. On the current roll I doubt they will be there because it just winds and winds through to the end of the roll if I keep going.
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
The repair situation may require drastic measures, if there is no one to repair the film counter. It's fairly common to see Iskras with frame counter issues that have had red windows installed on the back for a visual frame count. That should be a fairly simple repair for any competent repair person, with no special parts or knowledge required. Far from ideal, but it would get your camera back in service.
lohrentz
Established
I think I'm going to install a window in my Iskra. What would one use for the red window?
Retro-Grouch
Well-known
My first thought is to go to a flea market and find any old, junked folder with a red window. You could cannibalize the whole assembly. Of course, you will have to drill a hole through the pressure plate and the camera back.
You could also use any dark red acetate. Old acetate filters come to mind, or perhaps you could source some from a graphic arts supplier. Be sure the shade of red is not so dark as to make the film backing numbers difficult to see.