Nikon SP CLA recommendations?

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shawn

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Anyone have any current recommendations for people that still work on the Nikon SP?

Mine has an issue with the frame lines not always engaging/disengaging properly. Right now I have it set to 50mm and all the frame lines are still showing in the top right side. Seems like they are sticking somewhat.

I checked in with DAG and he is no longer working on anything but Leica. Zack's wouldn't work on a S2 so I doubt he will work on the SP either.

Thanks!
 
Try Vermont Camera Works.

Kiitos in Japan is the best for Nikon RF if you’re up for a bit more leg work.
 
This is not good . DAG worked on my SP less than a year ago.

How can you stop fixing NIkons? NIKONS
 
Vermont Camera Works did a cla on my S2 and I’m very happy with it. One thing to note is they only work a few days a week so it may take some time for you to get your camera back.
 
Update:

Heard back from Jim at Vermont Camera Works. Per him: "We can look at your camera but it would need to come apart to see what the problem is. This particular issue is sensitive to any damage and can result in a black viewfinder making the camera useless. "

Based on that I ended up sending the SP back while I still had the opportunity to do so. Shame as the camera was otherwise in nice shape, had the Ti curtains and was priced well.
 
splitimageview said:
Odd. I don’t see how this frame line issue could have that result.
Click to expand...
I don't know the setup in the SP but I was guessing something is interfering with the frame lines movement. If there is a prism right there if maybe it was separating it might have shifted it's position a little to interfer in their movement?

Just a guess really. That or working on the framelines means more disassembly of the RF and the potential for a different prism to separate? Seems like it happens some to EPs as I had seen several listed with blacked out finders.
 
If you remove the rewind crank and the frame selector dial underneath you should see a disc with indents that controls which bright frames come up. This rotating disc is connected to a rod that slides back-and-forth through an opening right underneath the top plate to a frame holder for the bright frames. The rod can get sticky which prevents it moving and the frames will not change. A little lighter fluid or equivalent might free it up enough to move. Use very, very little. Exercise the rotating disc and its rod. The rod is spring-loaded to show the 13.5 frame is I remember correctly. When everything seems right, reassemble. Make sure the dial is adjusted so the lens numbers match the frame lines (the place where the two screws go that hold down the dial is wide enough for adjustments. Screw the rewind crank back in place and you might be good to go. Good luck.
 
Thanks, but I think the problem this camera had was bigger than that. If the rod wasn't moving it should be showing whatever framelines setup it was stuck on. That isn't what I was seeing. When I was changing framelines only part of the lines were showing/leaving and then it ended up having all of the frame lines showing in the top right quadrant and only the 50mm everywhere else. I don't think the rod alone would do that.
 
Sounds like that little linkage system to key up the frame lines needed cleaning is all. I had the top off mine when I first got it and it was an easy job for me. Cleaned everything up, including sticky frameline masks and it worked perfectly as long as I had it.
Phil Forrest
 
the sp has a very complicated finder system
the wide angle 28/35 finder has a set of prisms to clear the rewind mechanism
I don't know anyone in the us that will service the 28/35 portion - klitos in Japan does do them
in the main 50-135 finder the frame lines are a set of masks similar to an m series Leica
they are actuated by an about 1 1/2" long rod that moves laterally from the collar under the rewind knob
on my sp the 135 frame doesn't click in anymore - but I don't use a lens that long so not a problem
the issue with these finders is separation in the prisms that reflect the rf spot & frame lines
there are 2 of them one for the rf spot & one for the frame lines - not just 1 like a Leica
also the surfaces of the small prism that moves to project the rf spot collect haze & result in a dim rf spot
this is partly due to the opening for the finger wheel focus right near the small prism - so not sealed like an m series
if you remove the top cover - the complete finder assembly can be taken out with if I remember 3 screws & cleaned
there are a number of areas you can't get to - however the small rf prism & outer surfaces can be cleaned
I had one apart 10 years ago - its an intense experience - a lot has to be removed to get that far
I had lend of a service manual or I would have been lost - if you damage the prism for the 28/35 finder you lose
those finder frames
 
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