Oiling the screws

R

ruben

Guest
In a past thread I started a rather bitter discussion about oiling screws (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20640). Today, that I am re-opening and re-screwing the already oiled screws, I can speak about what I see.
Opening an oiled screw, in contrast to a non oiled, corroded, screw, is quite a pleasure. You do not have to struggle against them, nor ruin their tops. For the guy/girl having to unscrew a lot of these, it becomes easy breakfast.

How much this proceeding helps or harms in obtaining that the screws remain in place for ever - this is yet to bee seen. I cannot account for it as I started the proceeding a month or two ago.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

If the fastener is providing a critical function, or may be lost, degrease the srew head - after you tighten it, - with alcohol or paint thinners, and then apply a small amount of ladies nail varnish as a sealant, if you need to undo the fastner remove the varnish with a sharp pick, like a dentst might us on a tooth cavity - sisters or mothers are really useful, they normally have red and clear camera sealant in their hand bags.

The varnish wont normally penetrate down the body of the screw, it is too viscous, and it only needs a 'dot' across the screw head edge. Your OM probably has lots of dots hidden below its covers.

A Kiev will rust if you employ it in locations were the relative humidity may be high, and at night at altitude this may be true where you live? My Kiev is a rust bucket, any excess lubricant is a dirty red/black colour. The fungus was more easy to remove...

The nail varnish wont be practical for some of the screws - like for the frame counter gears, (which can become lose,) one can apply a little thread lock to the threads of these screws, this still will allow removal, and will stop vibration unscrewing, and will avoid the rust or galling, but you only need to use this in a very few places and only if you are treating your toy like a professional would. You need to use the screw lock compound rather then bearing lock, the screw lock does not harden much, the bearing lock is similar to epoxy resin (or rust). Dont use locking compound on a camera myself, a car yes, camera no, but then I dont vibrate my Kiev.

I've had a Kiev jam on a free screw...

Dont recommend using 'oil' - I instead employ the PTFE based liquids or greases they won't 'creep' to the same extent as oil which is rather mobile over time. Apply as little as possible of the liquid from a dentists pick, rather then a squirt from a tube. The grease is useful as a third hand at stopping small screws 'jumping' on to the floor, so it serves two purposes.

Suggest surrounding the Kiev with foam padding in a car or bicycle bag, screws may cause damage if they come undone, like the ring inside a J-8M, vibration is not good. I've had a lose lens ring and mobile lens, not very sharp photos.

I've also had the lens ring on the Russian multi finder come undone and the lens hit a wooden floor and heared it bounce twice, it is very difficult to find the 135mm objective lens on a wooden floor even when you know it is there, vibration is bad.

Shalom Noel
 
Hi Noel,

You sound very very dexterous about Kievs, a delight and honour to be able to talk with, as behind dextery there are hours and hours of work. Therefore I go straight to the point:

How do we manage to bring the Kiev winding mechanism to its softest possible point, and what that point is like ?

This has been the axis of my tech endevours, the oil issue included.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

The simple answer is visit camera shop with a Contax II in showcase, or borrow (for a single frame at /125) from fellow user, the Contax will seem familiar like an old friend.

If it is in reasonable condition the winder will be like melting butter!

Its shutter will make a noise like a whisper, try 1/2 if you have a second chance! The shutter release will be smoother.

And you will be spoilt for life.

However I still use my '65 and '55 Kievs, I carry both in a soft bag with late black J12s, and multi finders.

The Contax are two nice to damage, strange lumps and all, a early Kiev '48 to '55 is supposed to be similar, but are just as expensive and as difficult to obain.
getting an undamaged prewar lens is really difficult, a lens from a IIa or IIIa that is post war is more easy to obtain in good condition, and (my f2 Sonnar) seems to perform better than any of the pre war CSJ or J-8Ms.

It would be more expensive if we were using Leicas, the winder on a M3 or later is also like butter, but that is not why we use Kievs?

But to answer your question more directly

- Henry Sherer (the Contax repair person/guru) loads the gears with fine diamond paste and operates then until his hand hurts and then strips & removes the paste with ultra sound cleaner. He does this to Contax which seem to be better then Kievs to start with.
- I tell myself the rust on my Kievs is slowly wearing the gears and spindles smoother - iron oxide is abrasive, - the winters here are hard on cameras for condensation, - and dark most of the time.

Noel
 
Hi Noel,
Thank you very much for your kind attention and detailed reply. I will have to think what your bottom line is.
Friendly,
Ruben
 
Screws work partly by 'elastic deformation' as well as friction, although if a screw is well oiled and works satisfactorily then it will be working mostly by elastic deformation.

Regards

Andrew More
 
A small spot of antiseize is probably the way to go if you're worried about corrosion potentially reducing a trouble free undo. Oil migrates; many screw holes are 'open' at their end.
 
I maintained my own bikes. It is a standard practice that you grease the screws. Some mechanics will even apply different types of grease depending on the components and materials in contact (carbon-carbon, carbon-metal, metal-metal).

People might get away with not greasing screws used on cameras given that cameras are less exposed to elements most of the time. But a stuck screw can well mean a tossed bike component or bike frame or camera part.
 
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