nervousfede
Member
Hi,
I have replaced the pad to my GS and it is working.
The first roll seems to be good but I have two problems:
1) The picture are slightly vignetted
2) In one picture with big aperture there is something wrong
in the out of focus part. What's happening? Is it a problem of the camera?
Here you can see the problem
I have replaced the pad to my GS and it is working.
The first roll seems to be good but I have two problems:
1) The picture are slightly vignetted
2) In one picture with big aperture there is something wrong
in the out of focus part. What's happening? Is it a problem of the camera?
Here you can see the problem
unsharp
Established
describe the problem
describe the problem
Can you tell what are the problems you see in the out of focus area?
This is usually a quite individual thing. To me it looks fine.
In this photo it is not easy to detect vignetting, but taking your word for it there is not much a camera can do to add vignetting. Have you changed or added the lens hood or filter? I assume you are using the same lens...
I hope I haven't missed any vital earlier info since I don't own a Yashica and do not know what this pad that you replaced is. In that case I humbly resign my post
Anders
describe the problem
Can you tell what are the problems you see in the out of focus area?
This is usually a quite individual thing. To me it looks fine.
In this photo it is not easy to detect vignetting, but taking your word for it there is not much a camera can do to add vignetting. Have you changed or added the lens hood or filter? I assume you are using the same lens...
I hope I haven't missed any vital earlier info since I don't own a Yashica and do not know what this pad that you replaced is. In that case I humbly resign my post
Anders
R
Rob
Guest
If you have a filter or filters or hood on the lens remove it and see if there is a difference.
Looks like it was not very much light and there was some camera movement too. Try again.
Looks like it was not very much light and there was some camera movement too. Try again.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
It looks to me like camera movement. The out-of-focus areas at the top have a characteristic double image of slight movement.
If you are using a medium or high speed color negative film (iso 200-400) it will have so much exposure latitude that you can get acceptable photos even when your shutter is not working correctly. It takes severe exposure extremes or camera movement for the photogapher to be aware that there is a problem. One of the few complaints I have about Yashica Electro-35's is that it is so hard to tell when the camera is not functioning 100% because it takes OK pictures even when the shutter is off. Unlike a lot of mechanical shutter cameras, the Electro pretty much makes the same sound at 1/30th of a second and 1/500th of a second.
I suggest that you are either using the camera at the limit of the film you had loaded or your shutter may be operating too slow. What kind of film did you have loaded and what were the lioghting conditions?
-Paul
If you are using a medium or high speed color negative film (iso 200-400) it will have so much exposure latitude that you can get acceptable photos even when your shutter is not working correctly. It takes severe exposure extremes or camera movement for the photogapher to be aware that there is a problem. One of the few complaints I have about Yashica Electro-35's is that it is so hard to tell when the camera is not functioning 100% because it takes OK pictures even when the shutter is off. Unlike a lot of mechanical shutter cameras, the Electro pretty much makes the same sound at 1/30th of a second and 1/500th of a second.
I suggest that you are either using the camera at the limit of the film you had loaded or your shutter may be operating too slow. What kind of film did you have loaded and what were the lioghting conditions?
-Paul
nervousfede
Member
I'm quite shure the shutter is working well,
I replced the pad for this:
The film was a 100 Iso color pulled to 50 Iso
because was a sunny day: I was in shadow when shooting and
the aperture was f/1.7 (if I remember)
The main reason could be the photographer (me!)
Thanks
Federico
I replced the pad for this:
The film was a 100 Iso color pulled to 50 Iso
because was a sunny day: I was in shadow when shooting and
the aperture was f/1.7 (if I remember)
The main reason could be the photographer (me!)
Thanks
Federico
It also could just be the nature of that lens, how it deals with linear kinds of items in the near-beyond out of focus area wide-open. That has what is often called an "unsettled" look. The very close out of focus area looks nice.
dryonks
Member
hello. I'm an amateur shrink in Singapore and frequently lurk in this forum. am currently got an electro open and a working MG1.
agree with the rest the pic does not look vignetted, and "blurred" background seems acceptable for a shot wide open at 1.7
on what were you focused on?
wai Yong
agree with the rest the pic does not look vignetted, and "blurred" background seems acceptable for a shot wide open at 1.7
on what were you focused on?
wai Yong
cp_ste.croix
At the beginning again.
ok, without derailing the thread too much, or insulting anyone, i have to ask:
What is an amateur shrink?
What is an amateur shrink?
phototone
Well-known
It is possible that the lens has a curved field of focus when open wide up. That being the case, not everything across the frame that is the same distance from the lens would be in focus. If this phenomenon occurs stopped down then there is a problem, but it may just be that particular lens design.
Have you checked your rangefinder, to make sure it focuses at infinity when the lens is set to infinity? (A quick way to determine if the camera is adjusted OK). If it does not focus at infinity when the lens is set to infinity, all closer subjects will be off, also.
Have you checked your rangefinder, to make sure it focuses at infinity when the lens is set to infinity? (A quick way to determine if the camera is adjusted OK). If it does not focus at infinity when the lens is set to infinity, all closer subjects will be off, also.
dryonks
Member
hello cp_ste-croix
an amateur shrink is a trainee psychiatrist (equivalent of a resident in the states I think)
cheers
Wai Yong
an amateur shrink is a trainee psychiatrist (equivalent of a resident in the states I think)
cheers
Wai Yong
nervousfede
Member
Infinte
Infinte
I've adjusted the infinite setting by mysel
so I suppose it's ok but I'm not a camera technician!
I checked other shot and looks good. The camera should be ok!
Thaks
Federico
Infinte
I've adjusted the infinite setting by mysel
so I suppose it's ok but I'm not a camera technician!
I checked other shot and looks good. The camera should be ok!
Thaks
Federico
ErnestoJL
Well-known
If you replaced the (in)famous pad, then you had to take out the whole lens assembly, it is the lens itself and the steel plate where it is mounted. Could it be that when reassembling the camera, the plate were held apparently in place, but slightly tilted? I mean: the four screws are equally tight, there is nothing behind the plate that would tilt it, etc. My question goes to something very simple: a very small difference in the distance from lens to film plane would show as a negative partly in focus and partly out of focus. This problem may arise and remain perhaps almost unnoticed if you close to f 8 or smaller, but on larger apertures, it becomes visible easily. As the screws holding the plate are very small, and there is some extra room in the steel plate, you may not notice that the plate doesn´t seat properly in place on the camera body. Your picture seems to be taken with the camera vertically, it means (if my ideas are true) that one of the sides of the plate doesn´t seat properly. Hope this helps.