Push process C41

kansas_parker

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I photographed fireworks tonight with some Kodak Gold 200 (the only color film I had on hand, I know it's a little slow for the subject). I calculated my exposure from this website with a 2 second exposure and 5.6 aperture. I set my L1 one "B" but forgot to change the aperture and it was left on f11:bang:.
I live at Yokota AB outside of Tokyo and was wondering if anyone knew of a local lab that might be able to push process it at ISO 800. I've read about a few labs in the States that can do it but these pictures are not worth it for me. I'd much rather just drop them off somewhere. Or would it the results even be worth pushing?
 
If all you care about is the colored streaks against the sky they'll probably be fine as is. If you're hoping for some detail of things on the ground illuminated by the fireworks even 5.6 isn't going to be of much help.
 
With the slow shutter speed, this was more of an experiment than anything else. I just want to make sure that something comes out. The only "land" in the picture is the tops of a tree line in the foreground so it is not important.
 
They tell me (the ubiquitous "they") that the slower films such as 100 and 200 are best for fireworks.

If I were you I would just process it normally. Fireworks are very high contrast and the subject itself is very bright.

Of course I'm no expert at this, the one time I tried doing fireworks it was such an abysmal mess that I never tried it again. :(
 
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Fireworks usually are very bright, so a couple stops down, they should still be quite ok I guess. Pushing could of course help to get good highlights IF the exposure is not enough for that.

Pushing C41 will not give more sensitivity for shadows as it does for B&W (maybe even E6 is better for pushing). In general, C41 is said to give about 1/3 stop more stuff for shadows for each pushed stop...
 
It seems the verdict is in. I'll drop it off and get it processed normally. Thank you for all the replies, if they're any good I'll post some pictures.
 
I'm curious if you intend scanning the negatives after having them developed or were you after prints?

I've discovered that scanning underexposed colour negatives can be an interesting process in itself and will create a very different looking image if you push the exposure in post with the appropriate software.
 
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I just dropped off my roll of Kodak Gold 200 at Walgreens. 15mm Heliar on a Bessa L as usual. I was shooting at f/4.5.
 
I just picked the roll up from Bic Camera. The exposure turned out well, but the composition not so. I'm not sure how it happened but the fireworks all ended up at the bottom of the frame...bummer. I was also thinking that my 50mm lens would not be wide enough, but low and behold, I could have used a much longer lens with better results. Live and learn.
 
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