2wenty
Well-known
Hey guys,
Ive searched around a little and can't find any info on this issue Im having. Im curious to see if its just my camera or if the G1 has this issue across the board.
As a side note I also have a G2 and love it but have recently take the G1 out of the cabinet to play with again and love the smaller size for a daily carry around.
My issue is, when I half depress and lock the focus, when I go to take the photo, sometimes it hunts.
So half press (focus locks)> press shutter to take photo> still holding shutter button all the way down> lens comes back refinds focus> then it takes the photo.
Sometimes it wont even take the photo. It even does it in manual focus. Is this just something with my camera or does the G1 do this?
I would imagine as soon as the focus is locked (half press) it should take the photo no matter what.
If its something with my camera Id like to get another G1 body, but if its like this on all them, Im just gonna put it back in the cabinet and keep it on display.
Thanks for any help.
Ive searched around a little and can't find any info on this issue Im having. Im curious to see if its just my camera or if the G1 has this issue across the board.
As a side note I also have a G2 and love it but have recently take the G1 out of the cabinet to play with again and love the smaller size for a daily carry around.
My issue is, when I half depress and lock the focus, when I go to take the photo, sometimes it hunts.
So half press (focus locks)> press shutter to take photo> still holding shutter button all the way down> lens comes back refinds focus> then it takes the photo.
Sometimes it wont even take the photo. It even does it in manual focus. Is this just something with my camera or does the G1 do this?
I would imagine as soon as the focus is locked (half press) it should take the photo no matter what.
If its something with my camera Id like to get another G1 body, but if its like this on all them, Im just gonna put it back in the cabinet and keep it on display.
Thanks for any help.
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
As a G1 owner (I have four, in fact) I've had this same problem with all my cameras.
I can't give you a technical explanation as to why this happens, but it does - seemingly to all of them. It may be age-related, as G1s have '90s electronics which were always quirky. I bought my first G1 in the late 1990s and found this was happening even then.
My technique is to stop pressing the button half way down and then moving the camera. As I shoot mostly static images, I just compose, press half way to set the focus, and click. One of my G1s responds slowly, the other three are much faster. Again, I believe, age-related quirks.
In 2004 I had focus problems occurred with my 45mm and sent that lens in for servicing, which cost me A$160, a fortune to me then. The repair man (who was Contax trained) told me one or two of the small 'pins' on the lens had somehow bent or dislocated and after trying to reset them, he gave up and had the factory in Japan send him new pins which he installed. No problem with that lens since.
I hope this rather simplistic explanation is useful to you. Others may have other, better worded comments to make as to why your focusing is erratic.
I bought my second G1 in the mid 2000s and later acquired the other two, mostly as film cameras were ridiculously cheap until a few years ago. They all continue to serve me well,though I wonder what will happen if (or when) they begin to break down and need servicing.
I can always go back to my Rolleiflex TLRs then, I suppose... good Zeiss glass and fully manual (mechanical) in operation, likely to outlast even me. But yes, TLRs are not Contax G1s.
I can't give you a technical explanation as to why this happens, but it does - seemingly to all of them. It may be age-related, as G1s have '90s electronics which were always quirky. I bought my first G1 in the late 1990s and found this was happening even then.
My technique is to stop pressing the button half way down and then moving the camera. As I shoot mostly static images, I just compose, press half way to set the focus, and click. One of my G1s responds slowly, the other three are much faster. Again, I believe, age-related quirks.
In 2004 I had focus problems occurred with my 45mm and sent that lens in for servicing, which cost me A$160, a fortune to me then. The repair man (who was Contax trained) told me one or two of the small 'pins' on the lens had somehow bent or dislocated and after trying to reset them, he gave up and had the factory in Japan send him new pins which he installed. No problem with that lens since.
I hope this rather simplistic explanation is useful to you. Others may have other, better worded comments to make as to why your focusing is erratic.
I bought my second G1 in the mid 2000s and later acquired the other two, mostly as film cameras were ridiculously cheap until a few years ago. They all continue to serve me well,though I wonder what will happen if (or when) they begin to break down and need servicing.
I can always go back to my Rolleiflex TLRs then, I suppose... good Zeiss glass and fully manual (mechanical) in operation, likely to outlast even me. But yes, TLRs are not Contax G1s.
2wenty
Well-known
Thank you for the help. You hit the nail on the head. When I focus lock and recompose the issue is worse. Maybe Ill just stick with the G2 and its always been really fast for me.
mikepadua
Member
Hi there, I know I'm late to this but this started happening with my fairly new-to-me G1 after a few rolls, and I've found a solution that has largely worked for me:
When you're depressing the shutter button fully to take the shot, use as much surface area of your finger as possible so that the button makes full contact with circuit upon press. I notice if I use my finger tip in a certain corner the button, the camera will lose lock and refocus as if I let go of the button altogether; I assume because maybe some dirt/dust is getting in the way of the contact under the button.
Anyhow, instead of using my finger tip, I use the pad of my finger so it covers more of the shutter button evenly.
In testing, it's worked the last 30 out of 30 shots of dry firing.
Hope this helps!
When you're depressing the shutter button fully to take the shot, use as much surface area of your finger as possible so that the button makes full contact with circuit upon press. I notice if I use my finger tip in a certain corner the button, the camera will lose lock and refocus as if I let go of the button altogether; I assume because maybe some dirt/dust is getting in the way of the contact under the button.
Anyhow, instead of using my finger tip, I use the pad of my finger so it covers more of the shutter button evenly.
In testing, it's worked the last 30 out of 30 shots of dry firing.
Hope this helps!
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
Good one! This works for me too. In fact, I have been doing it for many years.
My four G1s still work well. I dropped one last year, apparently without any damage even though it fell on a cement walk. No dents. I had it quickly checked by my usual repair center and they found nothing wrong with it, at least on the surface. Also they kindly did not charge me for the 'inspection' as they pointed out if the camera had been damaged, there was nothing they could do for it as it seems spare parts stopped being made available many, many years ago.
So we use our G1s (and G2s) more or less as working relics. Mine just keep on going, but I do fear the day when I am out shooting and the G1 just gives up the ghost. Until then, I will go on using them. The results I get (nowadays almost entirely with B&W, occasionally a roll or two rolls of good quality color negative film, never any slide films) from the 45, 35 and 28 lenses, are truly superb, better than anything I've ever had with my Nikons or even Leica Ms.
My four G1s still work well. I dropped one last year, apparently without any damage even though it fell on a cement walk. No dents. I had it quickly checked by my usual repair center and they found nothing wrong with it, at least on the surface. Also they kindly did not charge me for the 'inspection' as they pointed out if the camera had been damaged, there was nothing they could do for it as it seems spare parts stopped being made available many, many years ago.
So we use our G1s (and G2s) more or less as working relics. Mine just keep on going, but I do fear the day when I am out shooting and the G1 just gives up the ghost. Until then, I will go on using them. The results I get (nowadays almost entirely with B&W, occasionally a roll or two rolls of good quality color negative film, never any slide films) from the 45, 35 and 28 lenses, are truly superb, better than anything I've ever had with my Nikons or even Leica Ms.
scottcontaxg1
Newbie
Another late response to this post. I've been having the same issue with my Contax G1. It won't hold a focus lock. This youtube video solved the issue for me. Super easy and didn't take long.
Hope that helps for anyone looking!
Hope that helps for anyone looking!
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
I just watched the video -- I have no idea what he was doing, or how what he was doing fixed the problem.
scottcontaxg1
Newbie
Apologies I was having a different issue compared to the original post. Every time I would lock focus and recompose, once I pressed the shutter the lens would move out (closer focal distance). The above video fixed the issue for me. I can now lock focus, recompose the image and click the shutter without the lens moving/searching.
BenBasil
Newbie
Hey guys,
I also can’t find any information about what’s going on with my G1, so I figured I’d shoot my shot here.
The camera wont adjust the internal focus screw, even in manual mode, and it seems to be related to the body (it does the same thing on both lenses I have). I have inspected and cleaned the pins, tried multiple fresh and different batteries, cleaned the contacts on the lenses, all to no avail. My initial thought was that the motor is shot, but if I manually wind the lens’ focus screw fully out and put the lens on the body, it will instantly retract the lens back to infinity; which leads me to believe that the motor is still, at least, somewhat functional (unless a different motor is used for retracting the lens? Which seems unlikely). It at least proves that there is an established connection between the lens and the body.
I’m not super knowledgeable with electronics, is it possible that an actuator could be functional in one direction only?
After that test, it leads me to think it might be unrelated to the motor/connections, and might be caused by something else? The laser, maybe? It seems accurate in its distance readings, but I don’t know enough about how it works to say if that’s
I’m really at a standstill here and would like to figure out what it might be before I take it apart, so if you have any suggestions I would appreciate TF out of it
I also can’t find any information about what’s going on with my G1, so I figured I’d shoot my shot here.
The camera wont adjust the internal focus screw, even in manual mode, and it seems to be related to the body (it does the same thing on both lenses I have). I have inspected and cleaned the pins, tried multiple fresh and different batteries, cleaned the contacts on the lenses, all to no avail. My initial thought was that the motor is shot, but if I manually wind the lens’ focus screw fully out and put the lens on the body, it will instantly retract the lens back to infinity; which leads me to believe that the motor is still, at least, somewhat functional (unless a different motor is used for retracting the lens? Which seems unlikely). It at least proves that there is an established connection between the lens and the body.
I’m not super knowledgeable with electronics, is it possible that an actuator could be functional in one direction only?
After that test, it leads me to think it might be unrelated to the motor/connections, and might be caused by something else? The laser, maybe? It seems accurate in its distance readings, but I don’t know enough about how it works to say if that’s
I’m really at a standstill here and would like to figure out what it might be before I take it apart, so if you have any suggestions I would appreciate TF out of it
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
Also age-related. One of mine, my oldest, does this. It also now and then stubbornly refuses to rewind the film, so I have to carry one of those (in)famous darkroom "neckless T-shirt" change bags in my kit, to manually remove the film from the camera if and when it decides to do a no-rewind. Annoying, but very much a case of needs must.
Impossible to get this repaired now, especially in Australia. So the old girl (my #1 camera) will now join a select few others as a shelf queen.
Sad in a way. That G1 came to me a long time ago (1990s), and I still enjoy using it, quirks and all. The results are well worth it, especially with slide film, when I decide to relive my past and use up one of the few remaining chrome films I have left.
As a side note, I recently disposed of my other three G1s, to a Japanese collector who wanted them and offered me a good price for the trio. All the odder as two of the three came from Japan, purchased in 2008-2010 when Contax G prices hit rock-bottom.
I've kept all my G lenses. That Contax Zeiss G glass cannot be beaten. Not sure what I'll do with these, but I'm confident that the universe will send an acceptable solution my way some time in the future. Maybe a digital conversion...
Impossible to get this repaired now, especially in Australia. So the old girl (my #1 camera) will now join a select few others as a shelf queen.
Sad in a way. That G1 came to me a long time ago (1990s), and I still enjoy using it, quirks and all. The results are well worth it, especially with slide film, when I decide to relive my past and use up one of the few remaining chrome films I have left.
As a side note, I recently disposed of my other three G1s, to a Japanese collector who wanted them and offered me a good price for the trio. All the odder as two of the three came from Japan, purchased in 2008-2010 when Contax G prices hit rock-bottom.
I've kept all my G lenses. That Contax Zeiss G glass cannot be beaten. Not sure what I'll do with these, but I'm confident that the universe will send an acceptable solution my way some time in the future. Maybe a digital conversion...
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
Never used a G1 or G2 but what you describe sounds a lot like the AF issues the yashica 270 and 300 have. I have used a 300 in the past and it will lock focus and just before taking a pic it will do sort of "final focus check" (my words) and lose focus. The older 230AF was not doing that.
Rick Waldroup
Well-known
I had these focus issues with my G1. I never had them with the G2. I eventually sold the entire system. I still miss those superb lenses, though.
santino
FSU gear head
It is kinda sad that Kyocera didn’t manage to produce a really reliable Contax camera (be it RF or SLR). Superb lenses but bodies that do not stand the test of time.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Failing after 30 years is not ‘not really reliable’. Fair enough to blame Kyocera for destroying the parts and documentation - if this had not happened the fixes for most of these problems would be trivial. Every tech I’ve known who worked on the G cameras (three or four separate techs) basically said there is essentially nothing to go wrong unless something actually breaks. To do so after 30 years, mostly with no lubrication or cleaning for a long time, is really quite admirable.
The Spastic Image
Established
At least the Contax RTS or SLR lenses, work on a reliable, cheaper Yashica model or three. And Mark Hama knows how to keep a few models alive and clicking!!!
santino
FSU gear head
I‘m not questioning your comment but there are things that just should not happen to pro grade cameras like slipping mirrors, frame counter windows that simply drop into the body underneath the top cover etc. - I just don’t consider Kyocera made Contaxes pro grade cameras, they are IMO not as sturdy and reliable as a Nikon F4 or Canon Eos 1 (when we speak 90s tech).
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
The original RTS was already failing in the 80s and the RTS II by the mid 90s. I have issues of Practical Photography which in the buying used section advises people to make sure all work ok - so it must have been known. A lot of RTS III online reviews revolve around non working samples - when did they stop working is a good question. Other Contax cameras like the 167 or 138 or 137 have stood all the test of time but are not pro models.
Back to the G1 - from what I read, the issues with the AF seems to be linked to the AF module and is probably not age related.
Back to the G1 - from what I read, the issues with the AF seems to be linked to the AF module and is probably not age related.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Kyocera either never really thought that their cameras were for pros, or they realized pretty quickly that they couldn’t compete with Nikon and Canon and gave up. The Contax-Yashica SLRs were made for well-heeled amateurs, not for pros. But once the mirrors were glued, my RXs and STs have lasted 25+ years and thousands of rolls.