Phantomas
Well-known
I've actually sen some people emulating film brands by adjusting the settings, some better than others. Trying to find where I've seen those...
zetablues
Established
Hi, Phantomas!
Under normal conditions this suits well IMO (JPG shooting):
WB auto (I think, R-D1 is very good here)
Edge Enhancement M-
Saturationg M-
Tint M (or M+)
Contrast M-
NR L (none)
HTH
Regards
Under normal conditions this suits well IMO (JPG shooting):
WB auto (I think, R-D1 is very good here)
Edge Enhancement M-
Saturationg M-
Tint M (or M+)
Contrast M-
NR L (none)
HTH
Regards
Jeff Fillmore
Member
Am I right in thinking the film modes only effect the jpg files and not the raw file?
Phantomas
Well-known
Not sure Jeff, that's what I'm assuming, but wouldn't mind re-confirmation...
On that note, after a couple of days of shooting I noticed that my RAW files look quite muddy (color) when viewed in Bridge/Photoshop. Not unpleasant but slightly muddy. Then today I noticed something strange - I copied a few files from the SD card and proceeded to view them in Bridge (RAW files), clicked on one and the preview showed crispy beautiful photo...... for just a couple of seconds when BAM! preview refreshed and the photo assumed same ol' muddy colors. What the hell? Anyone have explanation for this?
Anyway, I haven't tried JPG yet, playing a "professional" shooting RAW only, but if that's the quality I get out of the camera... I'd rather go "amateur" JPG
On that note, after a couple of days of shooting I noticed that my RAW files look quite muddy (color) when viewed in Bridge/Photoshop. Not unpleasant but slightly muddy. Then today I noticed something strange - I copied a few files from the SD card and proceeded to view them in Bridge (RAW files), clicked on one and the preview showed crispy beautiful photo...... for just a couple of seconds when BAM! preview refreshed and the photo assumed same ol' muddy colors. What the hell? Anyone have explanation for this?
Anyway, I haven't tried JPG yet, playing a "professional" shooting RAW only, but if that's the quality I get out of the camera... I'd rather go "amateur" JPG
kuvvy
Well-known
I've never shot RAW ever, with any camera. Mainly as I haven't a clue what to do with the files after. Just got Lightroom 2 and bought a book to follow but looks like hard going to me though I know you guys will say it's worth it. I spend to much time on the computer as it is andI don't expect shooting RAW will lessen the time.
However, another RFF-er and myself are off to do an early morning shoot in Manchester tomorrow so i may make the effort to try it out.
However, another RFF-er and myself are off to do an early morning shoot in Manchester tomorrow so i may make the effort to try it out.
squirrel$$$bandit
Mentor
Not sure Jeff, that's what I'm assuming, but wouldn't mind re-confirmation...
On that note, after a couple of days of shooting I noticed that my RAW files look quite muddy (color) when viewed in Bridge/Photoshop. Not unpleasant but slightly muddy. Then today I noticed something strange - I copied a few files from the SD card and proceeded to view them in Bridge (RAW files), clicked on one and the preview showed crispy beautiful photo...... for just a couple of seconds when BAM! preview refreshed and the photo assumed same ol' muddy colors. What the hell? Anyone have explanation for this?
Anyway, I haven't tried JPG yet, playing a "professional" shooting RAW only, but if that's the quality I get out of the camera... I'd rather go "amateur" JPG
That's Bridge first showing the jpeg thumbnail while it loads the RAW. Personally, I find ACR's R-D1 profile to be pretty crappy--this is what gives you the muddy pic. R-D1 RAW files are fairly bland, without adjustment.
nahlene
Member
I tend to shoot all my photos in RAW because in case there is a good shot i would like to enlarge to 13MP 600 dpi, it would be easy through the Epson Photolier.
Besides, in some extreme dark or bright conditions, it is always a good idea to shoot RAW in order to be more flexible with the stops (RAW can recover about 2 stops from dark and nearly 1 stop from brightness in my experience)
There is another good thing about RAW, i use an 1GB Ultra II in R-D1s, shooting RAW will take about 70 ~75 photos to fill it, very close to 2 rolls of films, keeping my pace low and shooting more serious... but that's not the point, haha
Besides, in some extreme dark or bright conditions, it is always a good idea to shoot RAW in order to be more flexible with the stops (RAW can recover about 2 stops from dark and nearly 1 stop from brightness in my experience)
There is another good thing about RAW, i use an 1GB Ultra II in R-D1s, shooting RAW will take about 70 ~75 photos to fill it, very close to 2 rolls of films, keeping my pace low and shooting more serious... but that's not the point, haha
matpar
Member
Film modes settings?
Film modes settings?
hi, try to "exhume" some words over this magnific RF family from Epson.
It seems as if this thread wasn't already open (I hope), but actually I do wonder:
1) which settings the "default" film selection mimic in respect of the parameters found on other settings (film1, film2, film3)? has it to be considered as if all values (i.e. saturation, contrast, etc.) are set to "0", or is there a precise setting there?
2) what are the parameters that works out best for you? (of course we get into the taste area here, but just to see ho it goes).
Cheers
Film modes settings?
hi, try to "exhume" some words over this magnific RF family from Epson.
It seems as if this thread wasn't already open (I hope), but actually I do wonder:
1) which settings the "default" film selection mimic in respect of the parameters found on other settings (film1, film2, film3)? has it to be considered as if all values (i.e. saturation, contrast, etc.) are set to "0", or is there a precise setting there?
2) what are the parameters that works out best for you? (of course we get into the taste area here, but just to see ho it goes).
Cheers
shadeofpale
Established
When i received mine, i reset it and got the following:
Film1:
E=M, S=M, T=M, C=M, N=L
Film2:
E=M+, S=M+, T=M, C=M+, N=L
Film3:
E=M, S=M, T=M, C=M, N=H
Always use these settings, unchanged.
Film1:
E=M, S=M, T=M, C=M, N=L
Film2:
E=M+, S=M+, T=M, C=M+, N=L
Film3:
E=M, S=M, T=M, C=M, N=H
Always use these settings, unchanged.
matpar
Member
Thank you for the reply!
shadeofpale, of course re-setting could help in getting original ratios (which I messed up so far), in any case a question remains unanswered: do we know whether the original "default" Film mode can be cloned in the other film settings? (this, in order to eventually make some slight modifications starting from the default setting).
Cheers
shadeofpale, of course re-setting could help in getting original ratios (which I messed up so far), in any case a question remains unanswered: do we know whether the original "default" Film mode can be cloned in the other film settings? (this, in order to eventually make some slight modifications starting from the default setting).
Cheers
shadeofpale
Established
You might compare the output of the "Standard" setting with a modified film setting, all parameters set to zero ...
matpar
Member
ok, this is what I thought too, but wasn't sure.
I'll play then starting from all parameters set to 0 and then move on!
I'll play then starting from all parameters set to 0 and then move on!
shadeofpale
Established
Some report about the lessons you learnt?
matpar
Member
Honestly not very much in the end, I fiddled a bit but mostly on contrast and tint, discovering the RAW is already Well managed by LR.
Plus, actual setting is JPG Always in B&W plus RAW. The best of two world imho.
Plus, actual setting is JPG Always in B&W plus RAW. The best of two world imho.