Seeking a new system

yinyangbt

yinyangbt

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I am looking to replace my old EP-L1 with a newer camera to be associated with a 14-42 Panasonic (not colapsible one ) wich I understood it is better than the Zuiko 14-42 Ii and also a Lumix 15/1,7 or Zuiko 17/1,8 . Maybe a Samyang 12/2 also . I am shooting mainly street architecture ,indoors , lowlight architecture. I am coming from Sony a5000 +16-50 OSS ,wich I like the volume and weight but I don't feel it like a proper classic camera.
I am thinking about a OM-D E-M10 mark2 . How does it's AF work in low light ?
 
AF on the EM10 is contrast detection, so what you are focusing on in low light matters a lot. The EM10-mk2 has improved AF as compared to the EM5mk1, which I have.

For the EM5mk1 a brick wall, someone in a high contrast jacket, etc will require very little hunting in something like a moderately lit apartment at night (EV4 or 5). A lit street (EV6 or 7) is well under a second to focus so long as you aren't focusing a flat subject (side of a car or something, but a door sill or other high contrast area is fine).

I do a lot of event photography with the EM5mk 1 in EV5-6 territory and I have no issue focusing on faces quickly (less than 1/2 second). I am using primes which may help that vs the kit zoom. I expect the EM10mk2 to be an improvement.
 
Why not a Panasonic?

I've been using a GH3 for about two weeks and I love it... so much so I'm selling the A7 and thinking hard about the GH4 for its peaking and Video/Cine Log modes.

the GM5 and GX7/85 look like great cameras with more of that "classic rf inspired" exterior.

Also I chose the 14/2.5 over the 15/1.7 for its size and price. I got mine for under 100$
 
B-9 said:
Why not a Panasonic?

I've been using a GH3 for about two weeks and I love it... so much so I'm selling the A7 and thinking hard about the GH4 for its peaking and Video/Cine Log modes.

the GM5 and GX7/85 look like great cameras with more of that "classic rf inspired" exterior.

Also I chose the 14/2.5 over the 15/1.7 for its size and price. I got mine for under 100$
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To be honnest I thought about a Panny , GX7 . I want rather rf style camera and this is a plus against the om-d where I don't want the bump SLR like. And the Oly E-p and EP-L ones don't have evf wich I need . And yes , I'd love image stabilisation . The Pen F is out of my price range .
 
If you want the feel of a classic camera then you really should be looking at Fuji's offerings, especially if low-light performance is important.
 
The GX7 is an excellent camera, small and light weight. I have been shooting with my GX7s for 4 years and never regretted buying them.
 
what about the LX100? I am affraid about the dust on the sensor , a problem I saw it could happen in these cameras .Do you know how frequent is this ?
 
I wonder if the dust on sensor issues are over-reported. Lenses that extend and contract in any way are likely to suck dust in, so this problem could affect all sorts of cameras and lenses (and probably does), but the notion got some traction for the LX100 and GRII.




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If you are shooting architecture then the IBIS of the em10 ii will allow you to shoot at very low ISO settings hand held so the high ISO performance will be irrelevant. If you want to freeze movement then opening up your primes may provide sufficient speed without the need to raise the ISO but you'll lose some depth of field. I rarely shoot the em10 ii above ISO 800. Low light AF is fine. If you didn't already have some lenses for the em10 ii I'd recommend that you avoid it for low light work unless the work arounds I mentioned above would work for you. For low light I'd recommend Fuji (I have a Fuji X Pro1 - even with the 18-55 zoom it is several stops better than the Olympus, you get an OVF into the bargain and it isn't much more expensive than the Olympus).

Hope this helps
 
Gid said:
If you are shooting architecture then the IBIS of the em10 ii will allow you to shoot at very low ISO settings hand held so the high ISO performance will be irrelevant. If you want to freeze movement then opening up your primes may provide sufficient speed without the need to raise the ISO but you'll lose some depth of field. I rarely shoot the em10 ii above ISO 800. Low light AF is fine. If you didn't already have some lenses for the em10 ii I'd recommend that you avoid it for low light work unless the work arounds I mentioned above would work for you. For low light I'd recommend Fuji (I have a Fuji X Pro1 - even with the 18-55 zoom it is several stops better than the Olympus, you get an OVF into the bargain and it isn't much more expensive than the Olympus).

Hope this helps
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The first thought was fuji but the primes are unstabilised and the 18-55 is allready too big for what I am looking for.
 
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