Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
(updated 24th Sept)
Hey everyone.
I want to say a big thanks so far to all of you that have given me help on all the silly questions I've asked so far. But now I gotta ask some more!
Some of you will know the Rolleiflex I'd bought and wanted to restore. It's a 1950's Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat (tessar), in dog-rough condition but it works 'fine'.
Here's my To-Do list, and what I gotta sort out somehow - some bits are sorted, I'll try and keep this list updated if I can. Definitely not in order of importance, more in order of "hey, I forgot about that!"
Also I'd like to state I have the 450 page service manual (in german?) and I'm finding it really difficult to understand, so it probably answers some of these questions I have, but I'm still getting my head around the document! I can't find the pages with the exact same model, all the 'flex cameras have different fronts I think
If you could link me to other bits and pieces (i've lost the original thread with some info on the painting cameras for example) please could you make sure you state which question you're answering? Thanks!!
I really appreciate all the help!!
Hey everyone.
I want to say a big thanks so far to all of you that have given me help on all the silly questions I've asked so far. But now I gotta ask some more!
Some of you will know the Rolleiflex I'd bought and wanted to restore. It's a 1950's Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat (tessar), in dog-rough condition but it works 'fine'.
Here's my To-Do list, and what I gotta sort out somehow - some bits are sorted, I'll try and keep this list updated if I can. Definitely not in order of importance, more in order of "hey, I forgot about that!"
- Dodgy Hood:
Broken bit of metal in there, won't close smoothly - half sorted, but magnifying mirror is still wonky.
Q: Anyone got some macro's of how this magnifier on hinge SHOULD look?
- Flaking paint and tarnish on latches:
Began sanding down some of the flaking paint, but waiting until I have the leather clean off the camera before I get it all off and repaint.
Q: Acrylic paint used for model airplanes is fine, right? Can I get away with typical acrylic from an artshop? Any difference other than price? Do I need to give it a lacquer finish or anything?
A: OIL BASED ENAMEL - thanks Frank S
Q: How can I repaint the front piece without losing the serial no. and DBP DBGM etc??
Q: Should I sand off the tarnish and get some brasso-esque stuff on it? think that'll do?
- Dim/Dirty focusing screen/mirror:
Replaced screen with fresnel I got from DReilly (thanks!)
Q:How the hell am I meant to get all those speckles out of the viewing mechanism? I know some is chipped paint, so will a compressed air can be good enough?
A: Get a new mirror from the bay - Victor M
- Replace Screws on Hood:
One of the screws from the hood no longer fits tight, it won't thread at all.
Q:Anyone got a surplus of these? They're the same size for all rolleiflex's and 'cords I think (one from my 'cord fitted fine, but that is far from a donor body!!!)
A: Don't worry, get them last. - VictorM
- Open/Close latch on bottom is a dodgy/tight fit:
It opens, it closes, it holds the back light-tight, but its a bit painful on the fingers when the metal won't easily open, and occasionally the latch female doesnt mate properly with the body's male point.
Q:Short of getting a new back to the camera, is there any way I can fix this?
A:This is normal on the cams, so just be careful
- The 'accidental exposure' latch is missing:
Someone must have snapped it off down the line - its the little sickle-shaped bit of metal that hooks under the shutter release to stop it firing (duh)
Q:Anyone got one laying around? Any idea of dimensions so I can mock-up a new one?
A:Get a new front piece
- Shutter problem:
I'm not sure if this is down to incorrect technique - I'm used to winding on, and then setting shutter speed. The little dial for setting speed is SO difficult to turn its like trying to move a fridge using one finger! I can just about rotate from the slowest speeds to 1/250, but unless I fire, set, THEN wind on, I can't physically get the 1/500 speed. I think the lube is all but crystalised! The speeds actually work fine, even the slow speeds snap open and shut at the correct timing, its all down to how impossible speed-selection is - I dont really want to pay for a full shutter CLA that may not even fix this problem (no guarantees and all that).
Q:Are there any UK (shutter) CLA people for Rollei's?
Q:Once I get the front leather off, will there be any points I can WD-40 and lube up to quick-fix this without needing a full CLA?
A:I've taken the front piece off and lubed up the gears with a tiny bit of bike oil. It seems fine for now
- Self-timer thing is broken:
I got zero idea about that side of things. There's a very unsettling TWANG!! when I trip the top right switch on the front of the camera, and it must have taken about 30 seconds zzzzz'ing before the photo was taken. I'm probably damaging the mechanism further so I'm leaving this well-alone. From the bottom right of the camera, the winder is missing - http://cgi.ebay.com/Rolleiflex-Auto...ssar-lens_W0QQitemZ180024768885QQcmdZViewItem (not affiliation) shows a tab, that no doubt rotates to set timer speed. I'm worried the cost of fixing this, and the shutter, will amount to the cost of buying another one of these cameras in excellent condition!
Q: Should I brush this under the carpet, or will it be possible (and not too expensive) to fix?
A: (half answer) The twang is normal. - so really, brush under the carpet
- Camera needs new leather:
I'm waiting on Kim to get back to me about some leather, but I understand things are a bit busy for him right now.
Also I'd like to state I have the 450 page service manual (in german?) and I'm finding it really difficult to understand, so it probably answers some of these questions I have, but I'm still getting my head around the document! I can't find the pages with the exact same model, all the 'flex cameras have different fronts I think
If you could link me to other bits and pieces (i've lost the original thread with some info on the painting cameras for example) please could you make sure you state which question you're answering? Thanks!!
I really appreciate all the help!!
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ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
Mine is 1930's and really beat up. But it still works. I have been playing with the idea of putting 35mm in it and exposing over the sprocket holes. Sorry, I cannot help you conserve your one.
FrankS
Registered User
HI Ash,
Don't use acrylic latex paint forthechipped paint on the body, It is too soft and won't last. You'll need to get an oil based enamel 9not acrylic enamel).
About that 1/500 speed setting on the shutter. You need to set that first and then tension the shutter. There is a second, stronger spring that gets involved only for this speed, to move the shutter leaves fast enough to achieve that fastest speed.
Don't use acrylic latex paint forthechipped paint on the body, It is too soft and won't last. You'll need to get an oil based enamel 9not acrylic enamel).
About that 1/500 speed setting on the shutter. You need to set that first and then tension the shutter. There is a second, stronger spring that gets involved only for this speed, to move the shutter leaves fast enough to achieve that fastest speed.
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
FrankS: thanks for the info - I'll be sure to use oil based enamel, and the 1/500 speed is still pretty difficult to set, so it probably does need a service.
Jon: I've just done pretty much the same thing with my Rolleicord (using part of the rolleikin kit). I forgot to put the pressure plate to 35mm rather than 6x6 and such the photo's seem to focus behind what I had intended. That, or the focusing has screwed itself up somehow.
Jon: I've just done pretty much the same thing with my Rolleicord (using part of the rolleikin kit). I forgot to put the pressure plate to 35mm rather than 6x6 and such the photo's seem to focus behind what I had intended. That, or the focusing has screwed itself up somehow.
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Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
I think this needs a *bump*
VictorM.
Well-known
Dim/Dirty focusing screen/mirror: replace the mirror-the spots are desilvering-no easy/cheap fix. Mirrors are cheap on ebay, about $10.00. I bought two from nwcamera (?) and they fit perfectly. No focus adjustment required (but check anyway).
Replace Screws on Hood: 3 will hold the hood on fine-one of mine fell out and I didn't even notice! Get one when it's more convenient.
Open/Close latch on bottom is a dodgy/tight fit: All 3 of my cameras are like this, so I assume it's normal. Must be that fine German craftmanship I keep reading about.
The 'accidental exposure' latch is missing: You'll likely find this by asking people who specialize in repairs. You can get the hood screw at the same time.
Shutter problem: The controls should move effortlessly. Remove the front panel, flip it over and clean and lube the gears and wheels. The front panel on the older models doesn't affect focusing or shutter speeds. Frank has it right about 1/500th. NEVER USE WD40 ON A CAMERA!
Self-timer thing is broken: Not broken-the twang is normal. But the time is too long so the mechanism needs cleaning. Ignore it if you don't need it.
Here's an instruction manual for an MX (the one right after yours):
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_automat/rolleiflex_automat.pdf
Replace Screws on Hood: 3 will hold the hood on fine-one of mine fell out and I didn't even notice! Get one when it's more convenient.
Open/Close latch on bottom is a dodgy/tight fit: All 3 of my cameras are like this, so I assume it's normal. Must be that fine German craftmanship I keep reading about.
The 'accidental exposure' latch is missing: You'll likely find this by asking people who specialize in repairs. You can get the hood screw at the same time.
Shutter problem: The controls should move effortlessly. Remove the front panel, flip it over and clean and lube the gears and wheels. The front panel on the older models doesn't affect focusing or shutter speeds. Frank has it right about 1/500th. NEVER USE WD40 ON A CAMERA!
Self-timer thing is broken: Not broken-the twang is normal. But the time is too long so the mechanism needs cleaning. Ignore it if you don't need it.
Here's an instruction manual for an MX (the one right after yours):
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_automat/rolleiflex_automat.pdf
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Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
That twang sound is normal?! It made me jump out my seat!!
Dont worry, the WD-40 was an exaggeration
Are the mirrors easy to fit?
Did you take any photo's with the front panel off?
Edit: Is the bottom right (broken) piece actually the timer? or is it for a different purpose?
Dont worry, the WD-40 was an exaggeration
Are the mirrors easy to fit?
Did you take any photo's with the front panel off?
Edit: Is the bottom right (broken) piece actually the timer? or is it for a different purpose?
VictorM.
Well-known
I'm not sure what in the hood you need a photo of: the magnifier? eye-level mirror?
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
In the hood I need the flip-up magnifier's hinge, where the springs and little metal do-hickies lay.
If you had photo's of the front panel off, they'd be much appreciated
If you had photo's of the front panel off, they'd be much appreciated
VictorM.
Well-known
Front panel. The small square hole and the peg (opposite side of bottom ring) fit over the controls. Be sure to line them up when re-installing. I cleaned up all the old grunge on the mechanism and put a tiny bit of synthetic bicycle grease on the gears and parts that rub together.
Attachments
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
Great. Thanks for that, so what do the guts around the shutter look like? Basically all the area I'll need to clean to get the speed selector moving smoothly. Thanks
VictorM.
Well-known
Since the shutter works well, it's probably OK. The selector mechanism is in the front plate. The gears connect to the numbers above the viewing lens. These are what need cleaning. Don't disassemble further than this-the gears must be meshed together at the precise point to work the shutter & aperture and indicate the correct settings.
Attachments
VictorM.
Well-known
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
So it's probably grit and grime in that front plate that I need to sort then? Something tells me it'll be full of sea-salt or something by the looks of the tarnish elsewhere. So as long as the shutter fires correctly I wont need to touch a single gear on the body to get the selector smooth? It feels like its more than a gear on that front plate, like real resistance from where the frontplate gear might attach to the body?
And yes, I think it's the shutter lock/latch thing I'm missing. To be honest if you have parts then the whole front plate being replaced might be better? that would mean a shutter lock, and the smoother selector gears in one? If you can trade for it, and if it fits, then we could sort something there? (I dont have p*ypal)
And yes, I think it's the shutter lock/latch thing I'm missing. To be honest if you have parts then the whole front plate being replaced might be better? that would mean a shutter lock, and the smoother selector gears in one? If you can trade for it, and if it fits, then we could sort something there? (I dont have p*ypal)
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VictorM.
Well-known
You can have the entire front for the cost of postage. PM your address.
And the mirror is easy to fit-just two screws-but it's a bit fiddly, so patience is needed. It's really amazingly easy to do some of this work despite what some people say.
And the mirror is easy to fit-just two screws-but it's a bit fiddly, so patience is needed. It's really amazingly easy to do some of this work despite what some people say.
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
PM'd
So that leaves a few fiddly bits then.. I'll update the main post. any more help is gratefully received so keep it coming
So that leaves a few fiddly bits then.. I'll update the main post. any more help is gratefully received so keep it coming
Jerevan
Recycled User
You have got yourself in a real good Rolleiflex mess, eh?
The hood - if you can't find the bits and pieces, your best bet is to find another one that fits. If the the latch on the back, which secures the back with the rest of the body is wobbly, I don't think there is a way to tighten it. If possible I'd prefer getting just getting another. Unless the problem lies in that the latch itself is bent in some way - that may be fixable. The backs, I've found is one of the major issues, they get quite easily bent, and it's pretty iffy to get them totally straight again.
The self timer should take some time to "click" but 30 seconds sounds... like a future problem. Often the first things to go on a shutter is 1 second and selftimer, because you seldom use them and they gum up with dirt. A bit of excercise of the slow speeds and selftimer may help in the short term. CLA is in order, I think. And please no WD40. Short term solutions of this kind is well... short term!
Repainting, IMO, needs either a very light dab of paint here and there, or else bigtime stripdown and real enamel paint, baked in heat. But here is one link to one fellow and his adventures: http://pheugo.com/cameras/repaint/repaint.html. And remember, brassing can be nice...
The hood - if you can't find the bits and pieces, your best bet is to find another one that fits. If the the latch on the back, which secures the back with the rest of the body is wobbly, I don't think there is a way to tighten it. If possible I'd prefer getting just getting another. Unless the problem lies in that the latch itself is bent in some way - that may be fixable. The backs, I've found is one of the major issues, they get quite easily bent, and it's pretty iffy to get them totally straight again.
The self timer should take some time to "click" but 30 seconds sounds... like a future problem. Often the first things to go on a shutter is 1 second and selftimer, because you seldom use them and they gum up with dirt. A bit of excercise of the slow speeds and selftimer may help in the short term. CLA is in order, I think. And please no WD40. Short term solutions of this kind is well... short term!
Repainting, IMO, needs either a very light dab of paint here and there, or else bigtime stripdown and real enamel paint, baked in heat. But here is one link to one fellow and his adventures: http://pheugo.com/cameras/repaint/repaint.html. And remember, brassing can be nice...
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
I think the self timer problem lays with the broken bit on the front, as it has unwound itself maybe? I'll see what happens once I've replaced the front, as the problem may be obvious with the front off. Anyone fixed a rollei self-timer??
I gotta say the TLR on that link you gave is ugly!! Fair play he did a good job, but the colour choice is awful! Blame an art-based education, but honestly, complimentary colours anyone?
I guess that I'll be touching up the paint in areas then, as I'm not too keen on pulling the camera fully to bits, too much chance of losing something!!!
I gotta say the TLR on that link you gave is ugly!! Fair play he did a good job, but the colour choice is awful! Blame an art-based education, but honestly, complimentary colours anyone?
I guess that I'll be touching up the paint in areas then, as I'm not too keen on pulling the camera fully to bits, too much chance of losing something!!!
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
Update: I really do need a new front piece. I've lubed up the shutter selector, but to get a accidental exposure latch etc, I'll need a new front piece.