Nokton48
Mentor
Evan,
I had two Pentacon P6TL bodies upgraded by Pentacon Dresden. I had the MLU added to both, although I can't recall ever needing to use it. Both bodies have since been sold off, to help pay for Leica(s). Baier dosen't think much of the Pentacon MLU (if I am reading his writings correctly). He uses a different method for MLU, which I believe he also patented.
If you need a lot of parts (as you do) you might have to go directly to Pentacon. As you say, they will not be fixing these forever. I believe they have one guy at the factory (Andreas Steffen) who fixes the Pentacon cameras. Rolf-Dieter will still be around to upgrade your cameras, next service go-round.
It was around $650US to have Pentacon fix the two P6's, including shipping both ways, to Germany. Took about three months, total. They did put the EX66 advance levers on the P6's, which was pretty cool at the time. I would recommend them, although this isn't inexpensive. My cameras did work great.
Evanjoe610
Established
Dan,
Thank for the information. I guess I would have to decide what I need to send over to Pentacon versus Baierforto. I will check with Baierfoto to see if he is able to obtain the parts as it's more of screws (for the prism), internal mirroe of the eyelevel prism, amd (2) broken WLF. I guess I could try Baierfoto for his MLU.
Thanks for the information and I will write directly to Pentacon 's technician (Andreas Steffen).
Thank for the information. I guess I would have to decide what I need to send over to Pentacon versus Baierforto. I will check with Baierfoto to see if he is able to obtain the parts as it's more of screws (for the prism), internal mirroe of the eyelevel prism, amd (2) broken WLF. I guess I could try Baierfoto for his MLU.
Thanks for the information and I will write directly to Pentacon 's technician (Andreas Steffen).
ishpop
tall person
Hey guys,
While shooting yesterday, I got about 3 shots into a roll, and while winding, noticed it was particularly tough to wind. This is not uncommon, I can never seem to tell whether the resistance I am getting from the film-wind is normal or wrong, so I just proceed cautiously each time. But this time, after finishing the wind, the film counter went from frame 3 back to a line with no number visible, and for the duration of the roll, I no longer could see frame numbers.
It's hard to explain, so not sure if that made sense, but essentially it boils down to a funky winding lever action, and funky frame number visibility. My guess is that I goit 12 photos just fine, but I obviously get frustrated not knowing what is happening inside the camera.
You both are discussing Baier and Pentacon repairs, are these the only options? I am in Seattle, USA. A Flickr contact of mine recommended a guy in California for EX66 repairs, Ross Yerkes in Los Angeles:
http://www.pentaconsix.com/repairers.htm
I am thinking of having my winding mechanism overhauled, and I also need the WLF focus-assist glass replaced.
What are your thoughts?
-Scott
While shooting yesterday, I got about 3 shots into a roll, and while winding, noticed it was particularly tough to wind. This is not uncommon, I can never seem to tell whether the resistance I am getting from the film-wind is normal or wrong, so I just proceed cautiously each time. But this time, after finishing the wind, the film counter went from frame 3 back to a line with no number visible, and for the duration of the roll, I no longer could see frame numbers.
It's hard to explain, so not sure if that made sense, but essentially it boils down to a funky winding lever action, and funky frame number visibility. My guess is that I goit 12 photos just fine, but I obviously get frustrated not knowing what is happening inside the camera.
You both are discussing Baier and Pentacon repairs, are these the only options? I am in Seattle, USA. A Flickr contact of mine recommended a guy in California for EX66 repairs, Ross Yerkes in Los Angeles:
http://www.pentaconsix.com/repairers.htm
I am thinking of having my winding mechanism overhauled, and I also need the WLF focus-assist glass replaced.
What are your thoughts?
-Scott
ishpop
tall person
Hi Joachim,
That is the Biometar Mod 3, which is a blue rimmed version. I think Bokeh beauty is in the eye of the beholder, as I was really pleased with this bolkeh, hehe.
I get really creamy bokeh from my Nikon AIS 1.4 lenses, and sometimes I get bored with that, so getting some unique rendering like this is sometimes preferred to me.
Nando
Well-known
I have the 80mm Biometar MC and the bokeh is pretty much the same. I do think its harsh and I now use the Arax version of the Arsat 80f2.8 mostly. A bit softer wide open but lovely bokeh. Stopped down, I can't see any difference between the two lenses. However, sometimes the jarring bokeh of the Biometar works.
(Please, don't quote the ABBA song.)
What I would love to have is a Schneider 80mm Xenotar MF. That lens is luscious.
(Please, don't quote the ABBA song.)
What I would love to have is a Schneider 80mm Xenotar MF. That lens is luscious.
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ishpop
tall person
You and me both. But based on some tests that Tommy Oshima did with both the Xenotar and Planar T from a Hassy, it seems they are rather similiar. So I gave up looking for the Zenotar and bought a complete 501c with Planar T for the same price as I have seen the Xenotars go for.
Evanjoe610
Established
Scott,
I'm guessing that you rewinding your film and then attempting to reuse it again? Something similar as one would do in a 35mm SLR? AM I correct here?
I never attempted that so I have two bodies that I use. If you are seeking a lighter alternate, try the Pentacon 6TL body with an Exakta WLF or an eyelevel Pentacon prism.
Now regarding the Schneider Xenotar MF lens,Yes it is quite similar in its rendering charactertistics. Where it really shines is in B & W bokeh area. It has a creaminess to it. I like it more then the Hasselblad Planar.
If you can find the last version of the CZJ 80mm Biometar in MC coating, it would be better then the rebadged Biometar Model 3 done by Exakta.
Pentacon could fix the rewind mechanism, but as long you are sending to them, have them perform a complete CLA and if you want their MLU system, have it done then. As for parts for the WLF focusing glass, I think that the one of the WLF is -1 coming from the factory. That is what you are speaking about?
Evan
I'm guessing that you rewinding your film and then attempting to reuse it again? Something similar as one would do in a 35mm SLR? AM I correct here?
I never attempted that so I have two bodies that I use. If you are seeking a lighter alternate, try the Pentacon 6TL body with an Exakta WLF or an eyelevel Pentacon prism.
Now regarding the Schneider Xenotar MF lens,Yes it is quite similar in its rendering charactertistics. Where it really shines is in B & W bokeh area. It has a creaminess to it. I like it more then the Hasselblad Planar.
If you can find the last version of the CZJ 80mm Biometar in MC coating, it would be better then the rebadged Biometar Model 3 done by Exakta.
Pentacon could fix the rewind mechanism, but as long you are sending to them, have them perform a complete CLA and if you want their MLU system, have it done then. As for parts for the WLF focusing glass, I think that the one of the WLF is -1 coming from the factory. That is what you are speaking about?
Evan
Nokton48
Mentor
The Diopter bayonets out of the Waistlevel finder. Pentacon made a whole range, I have most of them. I believe Evan is correct that -1 is for normal vision. You can still find them on Ebay, if you are patient. AIRWATCHES is the son of the owner of Cambridge Camera, and he has EX66 diopters for sale. I got mine from Walser in Germany, when they were liquidating the EX66 accessories, they bought the entire lot from the factory.
The film counter mechanism is delicate and -funky- no doubt! Probably causes as many headaches as any other aspect of these cameras. Ross Yerkes can probably fix your EX66, never had any contact with him. Another excellent U.S. possibility is Eddie Smolov, who is in the NYC area. Best way to contact him is by cellphone, and I don't have his new number! He works out of his apartment, trained workers at the Kiev factory, and can fix any mechanical camera, especially the Russian and East German stuff.
The film counter mechanism is delicate and -funky- no doubt! Probably causes as many headaches as any other aspect of these cameras. Ross Yerkes can probably fix your EX66, never had any contact with him. Another excellent U.S. possibility is Eddie Smolov, who is in the NYC area. Best way to contact him is by cellphone, and I don't have his new number! He works out of his apartment, trained workers at the Kiev factory, and can fix any mechanical camera, especially the Russian and East German stuff.
ishpop
tall person
Thanks guys, I talked to Ross today, he seems to think he can help me out, but doesn;t sound like he has a ton of parts, just some old Kievs and Pentacons to mix and match from.
Evan, I figured my explanation was confusing.
What I was trying ot describing was actually advancing the film from frame to the next frame. I am having 3 issues:
1. I will take a photo, the frame counter will go from say, shot 6, to just a random line, no number. It will then remain that way for the duration of the roll.
2. I experience un-even resistance from shot to shot. Sometimes I will take a shot, go to advance the lever and it will go real smooth, barely any resistance. The next shot? It will feel like I am about ready to break the winding lever off the camera!
3. The last issue I have is 120 versus 220 settings. No matter which I choose, when I get to frame 13, nothing happens, it just keeps letting me rewind.
I am not sure I want to spend the $500 or so required to have Baierfoto do the MLU and film-counter replacements, although it seems like a solution to my issues. But maybe Ross can tinker with it enough to get a smoother advance, proper film counting, and pressure plate 120/220 setting.
Evan, I figured my explanation was confusing.
What I was trying ot describing was actually advancing the film from frame to the next frame. I am having 3 issues: 1. I will take a photo, the frame counter will go from say, shot 6, to just a random line, no number. It will then remain that way for the duration of the roll.
2. I experience un-even resistance from shot to shot. Sometimes I will take a shot, go to advance the lever and it will go real smooth, barely any resistance. The next shot? It will feel like I am about ready to break the winding lever off the camera!
3. The last issue I have is 120 versus 220 settings. No matter which I choose, when I get to frame 13, nothing happens, it just keeps letting me rewind.
I am not sure I want to spend the $500 or so required to have Baierfoto do the MLU and film-counter replacements, although it seems like a solution to my issues. But maybe Ross can tinker with it enough to get a smoother advance, proper film counting, and pressure plate 120/220 setting.
Evanjoe610
Established
Scott,
Your problem is most probably the rewind gear in the camera. I guess you must not be the original owner of the camera. One of the "PRECAUTIONARY ISSUES" of Winding the crank is to NOT LET IT RELEASE BY ITSELF!!! As you wind the crank, use your thumb to help guide it back "HOME", thus not allowing it to SLAM Home. I would say that your gear must be missing some sprockets or is broken or worn out.
As for Pentacon and any other repair shop, I do not think that there were any IMPROVED or Harden gear to replace the original design. That is why most people go with the Kiev 60, as it had a stronger spring and better wind gear.
If you want to play it safe, go with either Pentacon Dresden or BaierFoto. The former takes money transfer only, while the later takes credit card payment.
The other choice would be to use Eddie Smolov in Brooklyn, New York OR Mark Hama in Atlanta, Georgia. Both are SUPER Excellent technicans who can & WILL repair your camera. I would beleive that the part will most probably come from a dead Kiev 60 or a dead Pentacon 6TL.
Consider the camera to be a 6 X 6 version of the Pentax 6X7.
Good Luck
Your problem is most probably the rewind gear in the camera. I guess you must not be the original owner of the camera. One of the "PRECAUTIONARY ISSUES" of Winding the crank is to NOT LET IT RELEASE BY ITSELF!!! As you wind the crank, use your thumb to help guide it back "HOME", thus not allowing it to SLAM Home. I would say that your gear must be missing some sprockets or is broken or worn out.
As for Pentacon and any other repair shop, I do not think that there were any IMPROVED or Harden gear to replace the original design. That is why most people go with the Kiev 60, as it had a stronger spring and better wind gear.
If you want to play it safe, go with either Pentacon Dresden or BaierFoto. The former takes money transfer only, while the later takes credit card payment.
The other choice would be to use Eddie Smolov in Brooklyn, New York OR Mark Hama in Atlanta, Georgia. Both are SUPER Excellent technicans who can & WILL repair your camera. I would beleive that the part will most probably come from a dead Kiev 60 or a dead Pentacon 6TL.
Consider the camera to be a 6 X 6 version of the Pentax 6X7.
Good Luck
ishpop
tall person
Hey Evan,
I have used Mark Hama for several of my Yashicas over the years, and trust the man. I did not realize he could work on my Exakta, that is great news!
If you are correct about the winding mechanism missing some gears or whatever, I guess that would make sense, as it is just not a consistent experience.
Thanks for the tips again~
Scott
Evanjoe610
Established
Scott,
Mark Hama could fix any mechanical camera as well as any electronic camera. FOr most electronic camera, if its a circuit board, he will either buy it form the dealer or take it form a good user that he uses for parts nowaday (most repairmen go this route when there are no parts available).
As for mechanical camera, it s just like a mechanical watch. It will require a a good CLA and occasionally parts. He can fix the Kiev cmaeras as he use to fix them for KievCamera way back.
He is a good and honest repairman.
Mark Hama could fix any mechanical camera as well as any electronic camera. FOr most electronic camera, if its a circuit board, he will either buy it form the dealer or take it form a good user that he uses for parts nowaday (most repairmen go this route when there are no parts available).
As for mechanical camera, it s just like a mechanical watch. It will require a a good CLA and occasionally parts. He can fix the Kiev cmaeras as he use to fix them for KievCamera way back.
He is a good and honest repairman.