Stereo cameras

laptoprob

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I might be mistaken, but I was under impression Zeiss themselves produced those cameras. The reason I think that is that I've seen them listed in "official" Zeiss line-up in a German photo magazine. At least that's what I understood after seeing them under "produced by Zeiss".
 
I might be mistaken, but I was under impression Zeiss themselves produced those cameras. The reason I think that is that I've seen them listed in "official" Zeiss line-up in a German photo magazine. At least that's what I understood after seeing them under "produced by Zeiss".

zeiss does not make these cameras. RBT makes them.

you can check out more of their offerings at http://www.stereoscopy.com/3d-concepts/camerafilm.html .

i have never owned any of their cameras, but i have borrowed one from a friend and it was very nice.

bob
 
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You should check out the TL-120, from a Chinese company. It's a MF stereo camera that looks modern and very cool. I would buy it if the price tag weren't close to $1,500. I wonder if anyone here has ever used one, or, for that matter, how good the 3-d effect really is? I took my kids to see Monsters v. Aliens in 3D, and it was really neat. Made me think about getting into 3-d photography.
 
You should check out the TL-120, from a Chinese company. It's a MF stereo camera that looks modern and very cool. I would buy it if the price tag weren't close to $1,500. I wonder if anyone here has ever used one, or, for that matter, how good the 3-d effect really is? I took my kids to see Monsters v. Aliens in 3D, and it was really neat. Made me think about getting into 3-d photography.

i have a few 3D buddies that bought this MF 3D camera and they're all happy with them. i don't have one, i have too much invested in 35mm stereo to take on another format.

the 3D effect is pretty much determined by how you take the picture. if you have something in the scene in front of the stereo window (technically against the rules,) it is very dramatic. but it tends to give people a headache because of the eye strain involved in focusing. if you have the whole scene behind the stereo window(where it's supposed to be,) it's less dramatic but much more pleasant to look at.
and these MF cameras have a lens seperation of only 63mm, so that will further reduce the dramatic aspect of a picture. most stereo cameras have 70mm between them.

bob
 
the 3D effect is pretty much determined by how you take the picture. if you have something in the scene in front of the stereo window (technically against the rules,) it is very dramatic. but it tends to give people a headache because of the eye strain involved in focusing. if you have the whole scene behind the stereo window(where it's supposed to be,) it's less dramatic but much more pleasant to look at.
Interesting. How do you present your stereo photos? I was thinking a while back how much fun it'd be to print a couple large anaglyph stereo images for a show and hanging out red/blue glasses. Are there any other relatively easy ways to present stereo images without resorting to the cross-eye method?
 
There's some good info on stereo shooting and means of displaying the results at Rocky Mountain Memories, http://www.rmm3d.com/

The idea is intriguing, and I've done some 3d experiments years ago and still have some interest. I'm attracted to side-by-side mounting of photos on a card and a binocular magnifier viewer...
 
Interesting. How do you present your stereo photos? I was thinking a while back how much fun it'd be to print a couple large anaglyph stereo images for a show and hanging out red/blue glasses. Are there any other relatively easy ways to present stereo images without resorting to the cross-eye method?

i have never really presented my stereo pictures, so i wouldn't know where to get anaglyph prints made. i use handheld viewers and people seem to like them. it's nice to have a few of them so your friends can set the interocular and focus adjustments and keep it there without handing it over to someone with different eyes.
the easiest way to show stereo slides are those small cheap plastic viewers for sale on Dr.T's website. they are usable but have no adjustments.
if you really get into it, you need a real viewer like a realist red button or a kodaslide II(NOT the kodaslide I, it has plastic singlet lenses.) there are viewers made in belgium(van ekeren i think) that are amazing, but they also cost about $1k.
i saw someone referrenced rocky mountain memories above. Paul is great for stereo stuff, but i think he has been in a bit of health trouble lately and may take a little more time than usual in getting back to you. i buy most of my supplies from him.
Dr.T has a good site with lots of information, but he is extremely opinionated and not quite the authority he likes to seem. stereoscopy.com is a good reference too.

bob
 
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You can usually find a Holga 120-3D for sale cheap. Looks like it would be fun. Don't know how good the lens are though.

194120.jpg
 
My folks have a bunch of 3D slides taken at their wedding reception back in ’59. You view them through one of those cheap plastic, non-adjustable viewers.
Whenever I get back to Jersey to visit I ask to see them. They’re unbelievably cool. Very dramatic 3D effect, though to my eye the people in the photos look almost like wax figures. Everyone’s smoking, cig in one hand, highball glass in the other. The smoke from the cigs wafting up through the groups of people. Amazing.
I went to see ‘meet the robinsons’ awhile back in 3D. Polarized lenses with dual projectors projecting images at two different frequencies. I enjoyed it immensely.
At the movie there was a family within ear shot and as the movie began I overheard the young boy exclaim, Mommy! 3D is scary!
Perhaps 3D is a novelty, but I’m easily entertained.
 
The biggest problem today would be finding a lab that would mount the slides. You used to be able to buy 3D converters that fit in front of the lens and used front surface mirrors to give you two images.
 
The biggest problem today would be finding a lab that would mount the slides. You used to be able to buy 3D converters that fit in front of the lens and used front surface mirrors to give you two images.

amazingly, kodak just stopped mounting stereo slides in 1999 or 2000. there is a guy somewhere on the internet that will do it for you, but i think it's about $50 per roll.

these slip in mounts are very easy to use... http://www.rmm3d.com/supplies/slip-in.html
just cut your film, slip the chips into the pockets and you're done. they're not perfect, but they are very easy compared the way most of us mount them. i use mounts with no register marks in them so i can adjust the stereo window for whatever depth effect i want.

bob
 
... You used to be able to buy 3D converters that fit in front of the lens and used front surface mirrors to give you two images.
Several manufacturers I expect; I have the Pentax set, both the splitter that fits on the lens filter ring and the matching hand-held viewer. One problem is related to the f/stop chosen, the dividing line between the sides of the image pair gets wider and fuzzier, probably at wider apertures though I don't recall now. Interesting gizmo...
 
3D pictures with a smartphone, I use an iPhone.
I discovered the app "PopPic".
In the Camera app of the iPhone (and other brands) one can set the picture to be taken to Portrait. In the Portrait mode, depth information about the subject is found out and stored.
PopPic uses this information to display a stereo picture on the display. No glasses needed!
The app can take photos in portrait mode, but the photos in the Picture Archive can be taken to be displayed too. All photos!
 
As a kid I made 3D photos in the 1960's with my simple 127-format cameras: make a photo, shift the camera 75mm right and make a second photo. A week later I would put the small prints next to each other on the table and cross my eyes; it worked.

I've done the same with my phone many times (*) I made this many years ago:

(if I open this on my phone in a new window and view in horizontal mode, it works without much eye-crossing)

IMG_7854.jpeg


(*) What I have to do is first make two separate images 75mm apart, then I have to view my recent images (multiple images on the screen), resizing the display so that I can get the two of them to fit as large as possible right next to each other, then I take a screenshot. The screenshot then has the two images side-by-side. I edit the screenshot to remove all the extraneous stuff, leaving just the two images inside a single image which can be viewed with eyes crossed.
 
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Hello, the method to take two pictures at eye distance is known since more than 100 years.
For moving subjects is this method with a normal one lens camera not useful. New here was the Lytro Illum camera, a very interesting project, but killed by the reviewers.
Of course, there are the two-lens cameras for film (see Viewmaster) and some years ago the Fuji project with sensors.
The problem is to display a 3d-picture.
I use the anaglyph technic red/blue glasses, where the colors suffer. Or better, the pad from Polaroid with a lenticular screen. The lenticular screen method is very good (not excellent).
New (for me) is, that the iPhone camera collects depth information, like the Lytro Illum.
In the Gallery you can find some of my 3D pictures.
 
I made one accidentally earlier this year while photographing El Vado dam in northern New Mexico. I took two shots through different holes in a chain link fence, I have no idea how far apart. Later on I realized I might get some 3-D pop from them, and it ended up working well for the foreground vegetation.

Dam-Repair_06.jpg
 
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