Sunny16 Business card sheet

Jeremy Z

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I sized it so that it should print all 15 copies of it on a standard 8.5x11" sheet of paper, and can be laminated with two strips of standard 2" wide clear packing tape. It did when I printed it in Excel, anyway. Then, leave one (or tape it to the back of) each meterless vintage camera you have.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ud5vcEKFE7X0vHcGXjUuYhzONKhvWvB2QWooD5Awppo/edit?usp=sharing

I left it open for commenting, but not editing. I think you can copy it and use it as a basis for modified ones, if you want. (please share, if you do!)

I'd like one for low light work, maybe just with ISO 1600 and 3200, but going to lower light levels, if someone wants to try their hand at it. (I'd share this with my Night Trips Facebook Group)
 
Assuming that the lighting conditions are intended to represents steps of one stop, which is standard for Sunny 16 tables, there are some inconsistencies here. For example, the first two cells in the top row are identical and the last two cells are two stops apart. There are issues with the second row too.

The Sunny 16 table I was given and told to memorize years ago looked like the attached.

Trying to quantify light levels for lower levels is difficult. When I was my school's "sports photographer" my instructions from the newspaper editor were (1) set the aperture to wide open, (2) set the shutter speed to the lowest I could hand hold steadily and (3) try to get the subject into the best available light.
 

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Thankyou for the charts. Can you confirm that f16 should stay at hazy bright for ISO 100 and 250 ?
I always believed that the aperture setting should descend by 1 stop at a time as the light became less bright.
 
Assuming that the lighting conditions are intended to represents steps of one stop, which is standard for Sunny 16 tables, there are some inconsistencies here. For example, the first two cells in the top row are identical and the last two cells are two stops apart. There are issues with the second row too.
Thanks for the proofread; I fixed those first two rows.

The Sunny 16 table I was given and told to memorize years ago looked like the attached.
That's certainly The Classic, but it leaves us doing calculations in our head. Not complex ones, but it takes a few extra seconds.

Trying to quantify light levels for lower levels is difficult.
I bought one of these for lower light: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124838963400?ViewItem=&item=124838963400

When I was my school's "sports photographer" my instructions from the newspaper editor were (1) set the aperture to wide open, (2) set the shutter speed to the lowest I could hand hold steadily and (3) try to get the subject into the best available light.
That's good advice, too. Then rely on the film's latitude and darkroom technique to get what you can out of the negative.
 
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