Teach me how to get rid of the light meter

R

ruben

Guest
Since I became member of RFF, I came across with many people stating the don't use or seldom use their light meter.

Could you tell your personal story about it, how did you come to know your technique, and propose me a method about how to learn it.
(I know the sunny rule, what's beyond ?)

Many thanks
Ruben
 
Forty and more years ago I worked without a meter because I had none. Now, I find myself reaching for my meter even in blazing sunlight. Technology chews up the brain, someone said.
 
Well i've never used a light meter, simply because i never had one and i didn't want to spend my money to get one, i've just started shooting and observing, the sunny 16 rule works, and then there's your sense for the light(i am not gonna say i've a great sense) but i am sure using a light meter for a while, you know some default sets, you are not gonna be as accurate but it's gonna work.
 
Ruben, if you take plenty of pictures in different lighting and circumstances, soon you should have the different exposures memorised. A good memory and a good eye can come pretty close to an exposure meter.
 
I quite often don't meter under known lighting conditions. Most of my documentary shots are made under identical & even lighting all the time- teaching labs & classrooms, where i already know the exposure for ISO 320 (my rating for XP2)
 
Plan A: I look out the window and estimate the light. Then I meter the light and discover how accurate I was. Then I set up the camera and go out and make photos without fiddling with the settings: the light does not change every three seconds.

Plan B: Some days I put the camera on automatic.

It helps that I stick with two basic films both ISO 100.
 
The big eye opener for me was that most single use cameras work with a fixed ca. f11 and 1/60.

That, and that I once forgot to take the lightmeter along with my meterless 6x6. So, remembring the SUC thing, I set 1/125 and f8, and every picture proved properly exposed..
 
I have a lightmeter, but I dont think its accurate, so i dont use it. The first time I picked up a manual RF, I started using the sunny 16 method. Yeah, I sucked at first, but its actualy quite easy to guesstimate in any light. If I shoot indoors and the only light is coming from the window, I think what exposure I would choose if I was outside and then open up a bit until it feels right.
Last time I shot, I got about 85% of the exposures correct.
 
Lately I've been trying to pre-empt the light meter on my Fuji GS645. I set the aperture and film speed according to my best guess then check it against the light meter reading. I hope, over time, to train myself for better accuracy.
 
Recently I started checking out shady 5,6. 3 stops down from sunny 16. That helps a lot in judging when shade is a little brighter but no sun yet, for example.
 
laptoprob said:
Recently I started checking out shady 5,6. 3 stops down from sunny 16. That helps a lot in judging when shade is a little brighter but no sun yet, for example.
In the open shade is the weirdest thing ever.

I find that in the open shade it's always f5.6.. It's f5.6 when the sun is brightly shining, and it's also f5.6 when it's overcast. I can only guess that when it's overcast, the clouds act as a giant fill-in reflector.
 
payasam said:
Forty and more years ago I worked without a meter because I had none. Now, I find myself reaching for my meter even in blazing sunlight. Technology chews up the brain, someone said.

Ditto…exactly
 
Ruben, since my venture into RF, I found zone system approach (once grasped) helps tremendously. I learnt that few years back specifically to utilize the power of spot metering (which requires manual compensation in most cases to obtain working exposure). Now, once getting deeply in RF I used to utilize kind of large "spot metering" of my M6 (which is very precise) and then compensate manually judging the necessary adjustment based on my zone estimation. From my experience it works quite reliable even with slides (I used to shoot Sensia) once more or less comprehended (just some experience and understanding, no PhD degree required...:) ) in virtually any lighting situation.

However, few montsh after acquiring my RF, I picked an incident meter (Polaris digital) just to make easier on me for quick work. Once on outings I keep it with me and use routinely and find it very easy and reliable (except and the lighting changes drastically and fast which is rare situations). Having said that, incident meter usage combined with Sunny-16 rule helps me to develop an intuitive exposure judgement skills. I just learnt few Sunny-16 standard situations (open sun, lightly clouded sun, clouded sky and open shade such as forest for instance or similar) and figure the intuition can be developed quite reliably. Often I guess the exposure evaluating the skyes and type of lighting and then reach for my incident meter to check my guestimate. I found with more and more experience I'b able to nail the exposure quite precisely in many cases, ot at least be within hlaf to 1 stop from the correct one.
In more difficult situations I aim with my M6's metering combined with my zone judgement, when incident is not appropriate.

Bottom line: IMHO, zone system approach + Sunny-16 multiplied by experience are your best friends....
 
For outdoors, only two things to remember: sunny 16 and shady 5.6.

Send out your fully-electronic SLR for a thorough CLA-job abroad and 'loose' the batteries from your old-school SLR or RF.

At first, it may be a good idea to bring along a hand-held light meter, so you can occasionally get confirmation that sunny 16 and shady 5.6 do work.

Obviously, you won't be happy during dawn or sunset or on a walk in the woods... but then again, it's just a couple of stops below shady 5.6.

Groeten,
Vic
 
I'd like to echo that. Sunny 16, shady 5,6, a little bit of calculation about what these f-stops really mean, and experience for some trickier lighting conditions.


The most useful thing for me was a table of lighting situations, listing how many f-stops down from f/16 they were. And I spent some time running around with a lightmeter, occasionally looking somewhere, estimating things in my head and then crosschecking. For a time I used to take a lot of pictures in Berlin's subway system with my Kiev, and there once I found out that f/2.8 and 1/30 was OK for the film I use, I could stop using a lightmeter and just fire away, give or take the occasional stop if a station was particularly well or badly lit. Voilà, experience value.

For example, here I shoot XP2 at 250 ASA; the film is very tolerant to overexposure, so in blazing sunlight I normally shoot at 1/250 and f/11 to f/16, in the shade I shoot it at 1/60 and f/8, and underground I shoot at 1/30 and f/2.8 where applicable from Berlin experience. I've had a couple of underexposed prints from interior scenes on the market or from pictures taken at dawn, but then I'm still learning :)
 
IMHO, you don't need a meter outdoors in daylight, once you have a little experience. In twilight, at night, indoors, and in any unusual lighting conditions I really believe one needs a meter for reliable results. I do, anyway.
 
On a second thought, i seriously spend so much time experimenting with exposures more than actually taking photos i wanted, but it was satisfactory(on the rolls count,it's quite the opposite), after my first roll, some photos could be under or over exposed or need some photoshop work but it's never blown...Counting on your senses makes you feel skilled even if you make mistakes...

Lately i've been satisfied with the fact of not having to think twice before setting an exposure value, almost... It's not difficult to get rid of the meter luxury, only getting over the thought it'd be 1000 times easier if you use it...
 
This should probably be a separate post, but I'll reply as briefly as I can.

First, there is a common misconception that light meters tell us 'correct exposure'.

They do nothing of the sort.

First, because there is no such thing as an objective 'correct exposure' and second, because all they do is measure the light that strikes their sensor and report that value.

The fancier meters built into many cameras nowadays take light measurements from one or more points in a scene and apply canned logic to determine what is most likely to be a 'correct exposure' in many common cases.

This may or may not be what the photographer intends for any given photograph. And 'correct exposure' is the exposure that a photographer intends, nothing more and nothing less. We may critique a photograph and comment that it is 'over exposed' or 'under exposed' and we are referring to a commonly-accepted standard for exposure - in most cases, we're right. But that does not mean the photographer did not intend exactly the result achieved, in which case the exposure is correct.

So the meter without the human brain, coupled with an understanding of what exposure actually is, is useless.

However, the human brain, coupled with the human eye, is easily misled and lied to by the environment. It is part of our design to average, compensate, and make allowances. We can't determine proper exposure with our eyes alone. Those who believe they can are relying on a life's experiences with having guessed correctly more often than not, coupled with film's usual latitude that allows for some errors.

A properly-functioning light meter can inform me of what the correct exposure for middle-tone grey would be for the amount of light currently falling on the light sensor of the meter. It is up to me to make sure the light I want to measure is the light falling on that meter, and to interpret what that means in terms of the exposure I intend for that photograph.

Do not be a slave to the meter. But do not try to dig a hole without a shovel, either. Shovels are good tools; use them. Shovels without human brains to guide them are useless as well, so learn what exposure means.

It is my belief that proper exposure (meaning the exposure you intend, to give the effect you wish) is the least understood aspect of mastering photography.

We learn to focus. We learn to set shutter speed and f-stop to match a mechanical reading given by a light meter or a rule of thumb, and it will be 'correct' in the sense that the exposure will be more-or-less acceptable in most cases. Some of us go beyond that to learn composition, and some fewer learn the proper use of focus, shutter speed, and depth-of-field to obtain the effects they are after. A few of us learn the proper use of light modifiers such as filters and artificial light. We learn which films to use and when, what effects they give, and even darkroom technology or more lately, computer technology. Those who pursue large-format photography also try to learn the ways in which a photograph can be altered and controlled through the use of camera movements.

But few of us take the time to learn what exposure means and how it can be controlled under our will to give an effect we desire. We are either slaves to the light meter, or we are slavish disciples of Ansel Adams' Zone System; one is brain-dead and the other is soulless. Both consider proper exposure to be an objective standard that can be reached for any given scene, when nothing could be further from the truth.

Saying "I wish to learn photography without a light meter" is like saying you wish to learn orienteering without a compass. You may survive the wilderness, but it will be by luck as much as by skill, and for what purpose if you had a compass in your rucksack all the time?
 
Back
Top