SaveKodak
Well-known
Hi!
I recently purchased a Graflex kit with a Rollei 150/2.8 in barrel projection lens mounted to it from Catlabs. I'm wondering about the RF, and if there is something wrong. Here is what is happening.
1. I open the camera and set the bed to infinity. The RF also seems to indicate infinity. I slide the front standard to correct focus, using a loupe on the GG, and lock it down.
2. I pick a target 50ft away and focus to that target using the RF. Suddenly, using a loupe I confirm that my image is defocused. So I think, maybe the inf target was too faint, and adjust my calibration at this new distance using the RF and the GG.
3. I pick a target 4ft away and focus using the RF. I then confirm using the GG and find that the target is defocused. Without changing the front standard position from the 50ft calibration, I check infinity, and find that it too is still defocused.
So it seems like I can calibrate the front standard & bed position to be acceptable for one range, but not another. Is this normal for this RF? Is it only good for specific distances? The guy from Catlabs did mention that I need to separately set the bed-stop levers for infinity and close. I was a little confused about this because I thought focus should be uniform from infinity once calibrated...maybe I'm wrong.
Any help you can provide would be appreciated!
I recently purchased a Graflex kit with a Rollei 150/2.8 in barrel projection lens mounted to it from Catlabs. I'm wondering about the RF, and if there is something wrong. Here is what is happening.
1. I open the camera and set the bed to infinity. The RF also seems to indicate infinity. I slide the front standard to correct focus, using a loupe on the GG, and lock it down.
2. I pick a target 50ft away and focus to that target using the RF. Suddenly, using a loupe I confirm that my image is defocused. So I think, maybe the inf target was too faint, and adjust my calibration at this new distance using the RF and the GG.
3. I pick a target 4ft away and focus using the RF. I then confirm using the GG and find that the target is defocused. Without changing the front standard position from the 50ft calibration, I check infinity, and find that it too is still defocused.
So it seems like I can calibrate the front standard & bed position to be acceptable for one range, but not another. Is this normal for this RF? Is it only good for specific distances? The guy from Catlabs did mention that I need to separately set the bed-stop levers for infinity and close. I was a little confused about this because I thought focus should be uniform from infinity once calibrated...maybe I'm wrong.
Any help you can provide would be appreciated!
Steve M.
Mentor
There appears to be an error in your focusing protocol. What you do is pull the lens out, loosen the screws on the infinity stops, and get sharp focus on the GG on a subject that is at least 100' away. Then you tighten down the infinity stops at that distance, and set your rangefinder to be spot on at that setting.
If the infinity stop you have it set to gives you a correctly aligned rangefinder spot and a sharp image on the GG, then that is all the calibration that is available, or needed. To ck closer focus, focus on a target at say 25 feet (50 is getting a little too close to infinity to matter much) and that should give you a correctly aligned RF spot and a sharp image on the GG. If it doesn't, you may have the wrong cam in the RF for that lens. The normal lens for your camera was a 135 Optar, so if you have a 150 barrel lens on it (and I am curious as to how you are going to take photos unless you have a Speed Graphic for a shutter), then that is probably the problem.
If the infinity stop you have it set to gives you a correctly aligned rangefinder spot and a sharp image on the GG, then that is all the calibration that is available, or needed. To ck closer focus, focus on a target at say 25 feet (50 is getting a little too close to infinity to matter much) and that should give you a correctly aligned RF spot and a sharp image on the GG. If it doesn't, you may have the wrong cam in the RF for that lens. The normal lens for your camera was a 135 Optar, so if you have a 150 barrel lens on it (and I am curious as to how you are going to take photos unless you have a Speed Graphic for a shutter), then that is probably the problem.
Mackinaw
Think Different
I bought a top-mounted RF Crown Graphic a few months back. I had focusing problems too, the GG did not match the rangefinder at any distance. I at first figured the wrong rangefinder cam was installed until I looked closely at the focusing bed. On the right side (camera on your lap, lens toward you), there’s a bracket that attaches to the focusing rail (way back). The screws on mine had loosened allowing the bracket to slide forward throwing the focus off. It took me awhile to recalibrate the rangefinder with the GG, but focus is now perfect from 6’ to infinity. I don’t know if this is your problem, but maybe something to check.
Jim B.
Jim B.
SaveKodak
Well-known
Maybe I didn't explain properly but that is basically what i'm doing. And in fact when I set the bed & rf to an infinity target, that position lines up with the infinity marker on the bed. I then move the front standard to a focused position and lock it down. Still, when I move to a closer target, it doesn't work.
The focal plane shutter appears to be working great! So that's how I'll shoot with it.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
you need to ensure you have the correct focusing cam and that your RF is calibrated with that cam, to your new lens. graflex.org has all the steps.
Phil Forrest
Phil Forrest
Dwig
Well-known
This implies that the focusing cam in the RF is not correct for the lens FL in use.
There is no way to adjust the top mounted RFs for different focal lengths. You can adjust the infinity stops on the bed and Graflex sold additional stops so you could have a set for each of several different lenses. The focusing scale is FL specific and you need a different one for each different FL. The "adjust" the RF for different FLs you switch out the cam.
The cam is found behind a small metal panel at the top inside of the body. It is at the end of the flexible cable that connects the bed with the RF.
Spavinaw
Well-known
You say you have a 150mm lens. Unless you have a 150mm cam in the rangefinder and a 150mm focusing scale on the cameera bed things will not work correctly. For a Pacemaker Speed Graphic you need cam number 8 and focusing scale number 30881-12. Focusing scales 30881-13 through -16 are also variations that may work.
Corran
Well-known
Even if you have a 150mm cam it doesn't mean it'll work accurately, and especially not with a weird fast projection lens! The side Kalart is the one you want for precise calibration.
You have to calibrate the rangefinder to the lens, not the other way around.
You have to calibrate the rangefinder to the lens, not the other way around.
SaveKodak
Well-known
Yeah, looks like it has a 127mm cam in it. Omar from Catlabs told me the difference is minimal? But he offered to ship me a cam for 152mm lenses.
Corran
Well-known
He's right, the difference is minimal. The difference is between in focus and slightly not in focus.
Did you buy from them? I see they have some Speed Graphic combos with the above mentioned 150/2.8, but with the side Kalart RF that can be calibrated to any lens (though, it is difficult). Was yours supposed to come with it calibrated? Because you got hosed hardcore if it came w/ a 127mm cam and the "fix" offered is to send you a cam that is for a totally different lens, and different focal length!
I mean, if you are going to stop down to f/22 then the focus difference won't be hugely problematic. If you want to shoot at, you know, f/2.8, you will never have in focus pictures except at infinity and it will get worse and worse as you focus in. My assumption is you want to shoot closer to f/2.8 because otherwise you would just get a cheap 150mm f/4.5 Tessar, or perhaps the 152mm Kodak Ektar that cam he is offering is for.
I've calibrated Kalarts for 178mm Aero Ektars. It's not a fun procedure. The side Kalart is preferred simply due to the ability to calibrate it, since it uses a different system than the cam system later offered.
Did you buy from them? I see they have some Speed Graphic combos with the above mentioned 150/2.8, but with the side Kalart RF that can be calibrated to any lens (though, it is difficult). Was yours supposed to come with it calibrated? Because you got hosed hardcore if it came w/ a 127mm cam and the "fix" offered is to send you a cam that is for a totally different lens, and different focal length!
I mean, if you are going to stop down to f/22 then the focus difference won't be hugely problematic. If you want to shoot at, you know, f/2.8, you will never have in focus pictures except at infinity and it will get worse and worse as you focus in. My assumption is you want to shoot closer to f/2.8 because otherwise you would just get a cheap 150mm f/4.5 Tessar, or perhaps the 152mm Kodak Ektar that cam he is offering is for.
I've calibrated Kalarts for 178mm Aero Ektars. It's not a fun procedure. The side Kalart is preferred simply due to the ability to calibrate it, since it uses a different system than the cam system later offered.
SaveKodak
Well-known
I installed the 152mm cam today. It seems to stop RF focusing under about 20 feet or so. Is that normal? Or did I improperly install it?
SaveKodak
Well-known
Anybody? .........
Corran
Well-known
It's been a long time since I messed with a TRF Speed but no that does not sound right. Really, it's my opinion you send the whole thing back to them and find something that works right out of the box or learn how to DIY the Kalart side-mount RF.
SaveKodak
Well-known
My opinion is that I currently have a working focal plane shutter that is accurate as tested, a beautiful condition 150/2.8, and an RF that needs work, which is non-critical to the use of the camera. I think I'll just keep tinkering.
Corran
Well-known
That's fine, go for it, but like I mentioned earlier my assumption was that you wanted a working RF as a priority. You haven't stated whether or not you did buy it from them but if you did, and paid over $1000 for it as is listed on their site, my opinion is still that you got hosed. A good working Speed with a standard 135-150mm lens that is a stop and a half slower but actually matches the RF can be had for $500 or less. But regardless, yes please go shoot all the film you can.