Vintage Classic Cameras: The Unvarnished Truth, The Olympus Pen Part 3, The SLRs

Jason Schneider

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Vintage Classic Cameras: The Unvarnished Truth
The Olympus Pen, Part 3, Pen F, FT & FV half frame SLRs

By Jason Schneider

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Maitani Yoshihisa, acclaimed Olympus camera designer, holding Pen F in 2005.

The original Olympus Pen F

The world’s first interchangeable-lens half frame 35mm SLR (18 x 24mm format) the Pen F was launched by Olympus in 1963 to complement the highly successful scale-focusing Pen line. Designed by Maitani Yoshihisa, the renowned engineer who had already created the Olympus Pen pocket sized point-and shoots and would go on to develop the landmark Olympus OM-1 and XA, the original Pen F is a masterpiece of ingenuity and compactness that incorporates a host of innovative features. These include a compact rotary focal plane shutter that uses a single low-mass titanium rotor to achieve a top shutter speed of 1/500 sec and X sync at all speeds, a brilliant porroprism viewfinder (an assemblage of highly reflective mirrors) in lieu of a solid glass pentaprism, and a sideways-flipping reflex mirror, all of which help to eliminate the traditional SLR prism bulge. The Pen F was also the heart of a comprehensive system that ultimately included a full complement of dedicated bayonet-mount lenses ranging from 20mm to 800mm, most incorporating depth of field preview buttons.

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Original Olympus Pen F with 38mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko normal lens.

The original Pen F, easily identifiable by a prominent gothic F engraved in gold on the front of the body, is roughly the same size as a classic screw-mount Leica. Like the original Leica M3, the Pen F has a two-stroke film advance which Maitani deemed necessary to wind the stiff shutter spring effortlessly. However, it was revised on the subsequent Pen FT and FV, both of which have longer-throw single-stroke wind levers that work with low effort and commendable smoothness.

The Olympus Pen F provides evenly spaced shutter speeds of 1-1/500 sec plus B via a non-rotating, front-mounted shutter speed dial, X sync at all speeds, a bright 0.8x (with standard lens) porroprism viewfinder incorporating a Fresnel lens, a hinged back with an easy loading system, a 2-sroke, 90-degree film wind/shutter cocking lever, and a folding rewind crank. The Pen F has no self-timer or built-in light meter, but an accessory CdS light meter was available that attaches to the shutter dial with a two-pronged bayonet mount and is operated via a milled ring on its underside. Note: the meter was designed for 1.35v mercuric oxide cells and must be upgraded to work with current 1.5v alkaline or silver oxide cells. It’s estimated that about 190,000 half frame Pen Fs (not to be confused with the digital Pen-F introduced in 2015) were made over the course of its production run from 1963-1966.

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Olympus Pen F with accessory CdS meter attachment installed.

The bottom line:

The Olympus Pen F is the best choice for user collectors because its viewfinder is noticeably brighter than the one in the later Pen FT (which siphons off some light passing through the lens for its built-in TTL metering system) and it’s easier to focus, especially in dim light. The average Pen F is somewhat less expensive than the FT—it’s readily available used in excellent or better condition at prices ranging from $150-$300 with 38mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko normal lens and $300-$350 with 40mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens. These cameras are generally quite reliable and lots of fun to shoot with, and both the f/1.8 and f/1.4 normal lenses deliver outstanding imaging performance. Indeed, all the Olympus Zuiko lenses in Pen F mount are superlative, and while the rarest and most coveted examples command princely prices, they’re still one of the best reasons for anyone getting into the world’s most compact 35mm SLR system.

The Olympus Pen FT

The Pen FT replaced the Pen F in 1966 and was in production until 1972. Closely based on the Pen F, the FT includes all the Pen F features described above, but adds a mechanical self-timer (operated with a front-mounted lever with an integrated actuation button) a built-in CdS metering system that takes full area average readings off the focusing screen, and it now has a single-stroke wind lever that operates in a wider arc than the one in the Pen F, which requires two short strokes to advance the film. It’s easily identifiable by the Pen-FT logo on top, and it was offered in chrome and less commonly in black finish. Its finder image is somewhat dimmer than the Pen F’s since some light is directed to the meter cell. The meter is not coupled to the aperture ring and the exposure is read out in the finder by a needle that points to a proprietary exposure value scale (not EV numbers). To set the correct exposure you transfer that number to a corresponding aperture value ring that’s included on all Zuiko Pen F-mount lenses made for the Pen FT. A total of about 275,000 Pen FTs were over the course of its 7-year production era.

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Olympus Pen FT with 38mmm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens.

The bottom line:

The Pen FT is very competent, reliable, and a satisfying camera to use despite having a somewhat dimmer viewing image than the meter-less Pen F and FV and its slightly inconvenient metering system with film speed settings that top out at a blistering ASA 400. You can brighten up the finder by mounting a 40mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens or (if you have a spare $300-500) the rarish 42mm f.1.2 H. Zuiko. However, in most shooting situations the FT’s finder will not disappoint unless you happen to specialize in night shooting. So, if you come across an FT in nice shape at an attractive price, go for it. Note: the metering system was designed for 1.35v mercuric oxide cells and must be upgraded ($50 or so at most repair shops) to work with current 1.5v alkaline or silver oxide cells. You can currently snag a clean Pen FT with 38mmm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens for $200-300, and one with a 40mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko for an additional $50 or so. Black FTs are very pretty, but at $400-450 per copy I’d leave them to the showcase collectors and the fat of wallet.

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Black Olympus FT with 38mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens: Pretty but pricey.

The Olympus Pen FV

The Pen FV of 1967-1970 is simply a Pen FT minus the built-in metering system, so it has the brighter viewfinder of the Pen F plus the single stroke film wind lever and built-in self-timer of the FT, a combination that many consider the best. Because it’s coveted by Pen F shooters and only about 45,000 were made, the FVs tend to command higher price than other Pen F models, exceeded only by the black FT.

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Olympus Pen FV with 40mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens: The best of everything?

The bottom line:

At about $300-400 per copy with normal lens the Pen FV costs about $100 more than a comparable Pen F or chrome FT, but depending on your priorities, it could be well worth it. Other than price there are no downsides and it’s a great fun shooter’s camera. But bear in mind that a plain Pen F is virtually the same camera for less money. By the way, the FV is fully compatible the same CdS meter that clips onto the Pen F (about $100), so you can have your FV and your meter too, so long as you upgrade the latter to work current 1.5v batteries.
 
I have removed the semi-silvered mirror from several Pen FTs that have dead meters (most of them do) and replaced it with a first surface mirror, to get a brighter viewfinder. This turns an FT into an FV. I measured about 2 stops improvement.
 
FT to FV conversion?

FT to FV conversion?

I have removed the semi-silvered mirror from several Pen FTs that have dead meters (most of them do) and replaced it with a first surface mirror, to get a brighter viewfinder. This turns an FT into an FV. I measured about 2 stops improvement.

Great idea if you can do it yourself, but I wonder how much a repair outfit would charge to do this job?. Your measurement of 2 stops brighter comports with the official stats. Good shooting!
 
Thank you, Jason, for the interesting run-down!

Since Olympus also made medical/scientific imaging products, some of these cameras were apparently devoted to these uses. I'm told that some Pen-F variants had aerial image viewfinders for a bright view but no ground-glass focusing, apparently not needed for such use.

I bought an FV from KEH that they said had been a medical imaging camera, and it does have the usual ground-glass focusing screen. But the self-timer lever had been removed and replaced by a plug. Comparing the screen brightness to that of my two FT cameras, all three seem about the same.

Somewhere online I found some info to add to my camera notes: My serial number was made in 1969 (serials 115,000 to 120,000); third year of production for the FV (total FV made 25,000). Perhaps an estimate?

I did have some trouble with the FV film winding, as it was somewhat stiff, making it hard to detect the end of the film roll. So the sprockets would cut through the film perforations at the end. My local tech performed a CLA, finding the film-wind mechanism was gummed up with old lube. This helped but was not fully satisfactory. He said it isn't a very good design, due to oddball right-angle gearing to cock the shutter, and tends to be gritty.

Nice little cameras, all in all, and I like them. Over time I acquired a group of lenses, some of which are hard to find. The 70mm f/2 was the latest find I think.
 
Scientific F-series Olympus Pens

Scientific F-series Olympus Pens

Thank you, Jason, for the interesting run-down!

Since Olympus also made medical/scientific imaging products, some of these cameras were apparently devoted to these uses. I'm told that some Pen-F variants had aerial image viewfinders for a bright view but no ground-glass focusing, apparently not needed for such use.


I bought an FV from KEH that they said had been a medical imaging camera, and it does have the usual ground-glass focusing screen. But the self-timer lever had been removed and replaced by a plug. Comparing the screen brightness to that of my two FT cameras, all three seem about the same.

Somewhere online I found some info to add to my camera notes: My serial number was made in 1969 (serials 115,000 to 120,000); third year of production for the FV (total FV made 25,000). Perhaps an estimate?

I did have some trouble with the FV film winding, as it was somewhat stiff, making it hard to detect the end of the film roll. So the sprockets would cut through the film perforations at the end. My local tech performed a CLA, finding the film-wind mechanism was gummed up with old lube. This helped but was not fully satisfactory. He said it isn't a very good design, due to oddball right-angle gearing to cock the shutter, and tends to be gritty.

Nice little cameras, all in all, and I like them. Over time I acquired a group of lenses, some of which are hard to find. The 70mm f/2 was the latest find I think.

Thanks very much for your observations. I'm well aware that Olympus produced specialized Pen F, FT, and FV models for medical/scientific applications but I didn't include them because the article is aimed primarily at user-collectors. In general it's not economically feasible to reconfigure these cameras for general picture taking unless you can do it yourself. There were certainly a lot of great Pen-F-mount Olympus lenses--personally I like the 60mm f/1.5 and I wish you good luck with your 70mm f/2. As for mechanical difficulties these are vintage cameras and I urge potential buyers to check the camera in person before forking over the cash, and to buy only from sellers that accept returns without penalty. I've shot with 7 different Pen SLRs and around 20 lenses over the years and none has given me the slightest trouble, the sole exceptions being a Pen FT that had to have its meter calibrated, and a 40mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens with a stiff focusing helical that needed a CLA.
 
The GAS for a Pen F has returned!

How are the short telephotos? Which would you pick for portraits?

60mm f/1.5 (85mm-e)
70mm f/2 (100mm-e)
100mm f/3.5 (135mm-e)
 
Great write up, thanks. Got my first Pen F used about 1972 and added a second body soon after. Only ever had the 38 f1.8 and 70 f2 plus what ever I had that would fit a ‘T’ mount. After the OM came out all the Pen’s went until about 2000 when I started to build a small Pen F system again. There is just something about 35mm half frame and it’s 3:4 aspect ratio that appeals to me. My solution to the small negative is small prints, 6x8 on 8x10 paper is sufficient or sometimes I’ll print even smaller on 5x7.
Getting to be cool weather soon, the darkroom temperature will soon be tolerable. It wastes some shots but if I want to see results right away I’ll trim and load what frames are already exposed and reload the rest of the roll, 72 exposures is just too much sometimes.
 
A few years ago I was fortunate to get an FT with a working meter. It's been an enormous pleasure to use and the results have been excellent.

Those who have these little mechanical jewels can rejoice in owning something the likes of which will never be made again.
 
The GAS for a Pen F has returned!

How are the short telephotos? Which would you pick for portraits?

60mm f/1.5 (85mm-e)
70mm f/2 (100mm-e)
100mm f/3.5 (135mm-e)

I am lucky to own a 60mm 1.5 that I picked up very cheaply. It's great for street and low light photography and balances the FT in the hand nicely. I need to try some portraits with it!

Olympus Pen FT, Olympus 65mm f1.5 lens


Woman
by Hugh B, on Flickr



Laneway
by Hugh B, on Flickr



Out of focus
by Hugh B, on Flickr
 
A number of decades ago when I was just getting into photography, my dad was a photography teacher at a high school, and came home whit a Pen F SLR. I do not recall exactly which one. He loaded it with film, and handed it and the kit (included some lenses I recall) to me and said, go out and see what this can do. After that weekend he took it back to school and I never saw it again. I remember it was a lot of fun, and recently I started digitizing some of the old negatives.


Dodge, Country Road by Mark Wyatt, on Flickr


Mini Bike Jump by Mark Wyatt, on Flickr
 
Really enjoyed shooting with my Pen FT late last year: Rather than seek maximum image quality, I went in the other direction and loaded it with high speed color negative film. It was a blast: While Lomo 800 film and the half-frame format don't quite recreate the Autochrome look, there was soft-edged grain a-plenty which I found pleasing. Sometimes I want extreme clarity and detail in my photos, and other times, not so much. And this was one of those "Not so much" occasions.


Aside from the self timer lever which required the use of a special tool (I don't trust pliers!), top and bottom cover came off easily, and I did a general clean and lube, and installed new foam light seals from Aki-Asahi. Result was a bunch of evenly-spaced images and no light leaks. Only gripe is that none of my scanning software automatically recognizes the half-frame format, so I have to set the scan area by hand.


I could see myself wanting to pick up a Pen-F and/or FV, a wide angle, a macro lens and maybe a faster normal lens, but one thing at a time.
 
Thanks for the great story on the F series. Earlier this year I decided to buy a Pen FT. I knew the viewfinder was dimmer but thought it can't be too bad if Olympus made it. I got the camera in 2 days from Japan to Atlanta and was initially thrilled. But as I shot in less than bright lighting, I kept thinking how great it would be to have a brighter viewfinder. I have the 38mm f 1.8 lens. And I didn't like or use the built in meter.

After a couple of rolls, I decided to get the Pen F. I figured I could sell the FT camera for at least what I paid as many folks like to buy without searching overseas. I now have the F, also in two days, and really love it. It is perfect for me without a meter and I don't mind a two stroke advance. The viewfinder is so much better in lower light. It has been worth the extra trouble and the learning experience.
 
I’ve enjoyed reading your series here about the Olympus Pen cameras. I appreciate that you’ve taken the time to write and post the threads. I noticed that in each case where the camera body was designed to use a now unavailable mercury battery you mention having the camera modified to use a currently available battery rather than using an adapter or some other DIY approach to obtain a functioning meter. Do you have a concern with these approaches?
 
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