Muggins
Junk magnet
...OK, it's not really a TLR (this is a scale focus model), but it's my latest acquisition. It's the Bakelite Brillant. The lens is an f4.5 Skopar and the shutter is a Compur with speeds to 1/300th. I'd guess late 1930s?
Voigtlander Brillant (no second "I"
by gray1720, on Flickr
Any other non-focusing Brillant users out there? Once I finish the film-already-in-cameras queue, I want to try this, but I'm not quite sure I understand how the film counter (set to 1 with the red window, then it should count automatically) should be set up.
Adrian
Voigtlander Brillant (no second "I"
by gray1720, on FlickrAny other non-focusing Brillant users out there? Once I finish the film-already-in-cameras queue, I want to try this, but I'm not quite sure I understand how the film counter (set to 1 with the red window, then it should count automatically) should be set up.
Adrian
seany65
Well-known
Another necropost from me, but there is a point to it. For anyone else out there who has one of these and wants to use it, here's a link to a couple of manuals on the Butkus site:
The Brillant f4.5 manual is the clearest printed, but there is a tiny bit missing (probably from a bit being cut out and stuck to the camera for reference. The German manual has the missing bits but it's in Metres and not feet.
I believe the filter size is 29mm push on, but I tried putting a spare 30mm UV filter on, but that's too big even with the tabs adjusted. On top of that, the focus point indicator stops the filter going on properly. If that wasn't enough, even IF I could get it on properly, the filter would cover up the distance markers on the lens. Could that "29mm" be for the focusing version?
The thing I was going to start a thread for are "correct filter sizes for Voigt. Brillants, for each speed of lens".
So has anyone got any idea about the proper size for an f4.5 skopar, and how much of the distance markers do they cover up?
I've scratched thin lines onto the lens where the original lines are, and I know the distances, (in metres) but they can't really be seen except with a magnifying glass.
Muggins, it seems that the V6 was introduced in 1937. It also seems that some non-focusing ones were still being made after the intro of the focusing one. Mine is very similar to yours except it's a Compur Rapid and the speeds go to 1/500th. It even has the black "V" on the hood.
Voigtlander 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 and Plate camera, instruction manual, Voigtlander Brillant 6X6 F/4.5 Gebrauchsanleitung, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals
Voigtlander 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 and Plate camera, instruction manual, Voigtlander Brillant 6X6 F/4.5, Voigtlander Brillant 6X6 F/4.5 GebrauchsanleitungGebrauchsanleitung
butkus.org
The Brillant f4.5 manual is the clearest printed, but there is a tiny bit missing (probably from a bit being cut out and stuck to the camera for reference. The German manual has the missing bits but it's in Metres and not feet.
I believe the filter size is 29mm push on, but I tried putting a spare 30mm UV filter on, but that's too big even with the tabs adjusted. On top of that, the focus point indicator stops the filter going on properly. If that wasn't enough, even IF I could get it on properly, the filter would cover up the distance markers on the lens. Could that "29mm" be for the focusing version?
The thing I was going to start a thread for are "correct filter sizes for Voigt. Brillants, for each speed of lens".
So has anyone got any idea about the proper size for an f4.5 skopar, and how much of the distance markers do they cover up?
I've scratched thin lines onto the lens where the original lines are, and I know the distances, (in metres) but they can't really be seen except with a magnifying glass.
Muggins, it seems that the V6 was introduced in 1937. It also seems that some non-focusing ones were still being made after the intro of the focusing one. Mine is very similar to yours except it's a Compur Rapid and the speeds go to 1/500th. It even has the black "V" on the hood.
Muggins
Junk magnet
Even weirder, Seany, the original poster (ie me) saw your reply within 40 minutes! No idea about youyr filter size, I'm afraid - I'm having similar trouble finding a 29.5mm yellow screw-in for my Retinettes. I'm sure I had several, but can I find the beggars...?
I never did work out how to work the wind set up, I just used the red window in the end. Admittedly I was shooting on a very bright day, stopped down, and could add contrast in the darkroom, but I was most impressed by the sharpness of the lens:
I never did work out how to work the wind set up, I just used the red window in the end. Admittedly I was shooting on a very bright day, stopped down, and could add contrast in the darkroom, but I was most impressed by the sharpness of the lens:
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I had the focusing variant with the Heliar lens but I never got any good pictures out of it. With the focusing Brillant - the two milled focusing rings that connect the viewing and the taking lens would slip so accurate focusing was impossible.
mconnealy
Well-known
My Brilliant just has the 7.7 lens and a self-cocking shutter with a 1/50 top speed, but it is one of my favorites because of that brilliant viewfinder.
Once you have advanced the film so that the numeral "1" shows in the red window on the camera's bottom, you then press forward the small button on the camera's right side and that will bring the numeral "1" into view in the film counter window on the camera's right side. Make your first exposure and then advance the film until the numeral "2" shows in the counter window. After positioning the first frame I tape over the red window.
Some pictures of and from mine including one on 35mm film:
Once you have advanced the film so that the numeral "1" shows in the red window on the camera's bottom, you then press forward the small button on the camera's right side and that will bring the numeral "1" into view in the film counter window on the camera's right side. Make your first exposure and then advance the film until the numeral "2" shows in the counter window. After positioning the first frame I tape over the red window.
Some pictures of and from mine including one on 35mm film:
seany65
Well-known
Seems a bit cheeky of me to thank members for replying to a thread someone else started, but thanks to those who replied to my post.
Anyway, there are a couple of youtube clips about the Brillant, and at least one shows how to load it and use the rear red and white side windows and the little chrome knob.
Earlier today I tried a 28.5mm push-on filter (a cheap close-up I bought for this "size trial") and it was far too tight. Not only did I have to bend the tabs out of the way, I also had to pull back the bits of metal that the tabs were attached to just to get it on. It didn't go far enough on to cover up the distance lines, but it was very difficult to get off. So it looks like I really will have to try the 29mm filters and hoods, even with their "BDB/Actina" style tabs which are bound to go past the slightly "sticky-out" milled edge of the lens barrel and get the filter slightly stuck.
Bah! Silly ruddy camera makers! Why can't they all use a narrow set of filter sizes, instead of ruddy 21mm push on (for my Altissa Altix III), ruddy 29mm push-on (for my Brillant f4.5), 18.5mm thread for Taxonas etc. etc.
@Muggins, That photo does look pretty sharp to me. Here's a link to a Hoya Yellow listed on ebay:
picclick.co.uk
However, oddly, the first photo is of a skylight filter, and a different seller in the US who is selling a 29.5mm skylight, has a Hoya yellow 29.5mm filter as the first photo in THAT listing?
Anyway, there are a couple of youtube clips about the Brillant, and at least one shows how to load it and use the rear red and white side windows and the little chrome knob.
Earlier today I tried a 28.5mm push-on filter (a cheap close-up I bought for this "size trial") and it was far too tight. Not only did I have to bend the tabs out of the way, I also had to pull back the bits of metal that the tabs were attached to just to get it on. It didn't go far enough on to cover up the distance lines, but it was very difficult to get off. So it looks like I really will have to try the 29mm filters and hoods, even with their "BDB/Actina" style tabs which are bound to go past the slightly "sticky-out" milled edge of the lens barrel and get the filter slightly stuck.
Bah! Silly ruddy camera makers! Why can't they all use a narrow set of filter sizes, instead of ruddy 21mm push on (for my Altissa Altix III), ruddy 29mm push-on (for my Brillant f4.5), 18.5mm thread for Taxonas etc. etc.
@Muggins, That photo does look pretty sharp to me. Here's a link to a Hoya Yellow listed on ebay:
Hoya 29.5mm Fit Y (K2) Yellow Filter rare filter vgc + keeper • £29.99
HOYA 29.5MM FIT Y (K2) Yellow Filter rare filter vgc + keeper - £29.99. FOR SALE! Hoya 29.5mm Fit Y (K2) Yellow Filter rare filter vgc + keeper Hoya 29.5mm Fit Y (K2) Yellow Filter rare filter vgc + keeper 295784844190
picclick.co.uk
However, oddly, the first photo is of a skylight filter, and a different seller in the US who is selling a 29.5mm skylight, has a Hoya yellow 29.5mm filter as the first photo in THAT listing?
Muggins
Junk magnet
Thanks for the heads-up, I'll have to try YouBend before I use it again.
Funnily enough I was looking at that very filter about three hours ago - though I think it's a bit rich to have a filter costing six times what I paid for the camera! I know, I'm a cheapskate...
Funnily enough I was looking at that very filter about three hours ago - though I think it's a bit rich to have a filter costing six times what I paid for the camera! I know, I'm a cheapskate...
Muggins
Junk magnet
In fact, I've just bought an orange and a yellow Retina filter from a non-ebay source. Still more expensive each than the camera was, but less for two than for the one above!
seany65
Well-known
I've just tried a 29mm lens hood and it fitted pretty well. A tidge too loose to start off with, then I bent the tabs a bit but it was too tight, so I bent them back and now it's just about right, although I think I'll have to be careful with it.
I thought I'd add a pic of mine:
I thought I'd add a pic of mine:
Attachments
seany65
Well-known
I accidentally found what could be a serial number for my V B f4.5. It can be seen clearly when I tip the lens down a little towards the ground and the number can be seen inside the viewfinder above the area being viewed. Basically, it's inside the viewing lens housing.
Anyway, it's : 1542/3/1
Any idea of what its telling us?
A point of interest for those even newer to these cameras than I am: On mine, I found it best, when folding the viewfinder hood away, to fold down the left panel (with the writing on) first, then the right then back and then front. The couple of times I folded the right panel first, made it very difficult to get the hood open again.
Anyone got any idea what the design of the skopar lens actually is? Another lens with a name that ends in "ar". Are they all made by Pirates? I bet they "ar", lol.
Anyway, it's : 1542/3/1
Any idea of what its telling us?
A point of interest for those even newer to these cameras than I am: On mine, I found it best, when folding the viewfinder hood away, to fold down the left panel (with the writing on) first, then the right then back and then front. The couple of times I folded the right panel first, made it very difficult to get the hood open again.
Anyone got any idea what the design of the skopar lens actually is? Another lens with a name that ends in "ar". Are they all made by Pirates? I bet they "ar", lol.
Muggins
Junk magnet
AFAIK the Skopar is the earlier uncoated version of the Color Skopar, so it's a four-elephant design like the Tessar (aarrrrrr!).
No idea about the rest, sorry! The Retina filters, btw, are too big to fit as slip-ons but luckily I have a number of Retinettes that they do fit.
No idea about the rest, sorry! The Retina filters, btw, are too big to fit as slip-ons but luckily I have a number of Retinettes that they do fit.
Trask
Established
Here are two photographs taken with my V'lander Focusing Brilliant w/Heliar lens. It's not a fast-handling camera, to say the least, and focusing is "interesting," but the images are very pleasing (to me, at least). One up-side: it doesn't weigh very much, being bakelite and all, so easy to carry all day. Old FP4 120, developed in UFG.
Attachments
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
A few pics I have taken with my Brilliant ... such a fun little camera.
Joao
Negativistic forever
I own a pseudo TLR V Blillant from the thirties; metal built, made in Germany for the French market.
I shot a test rol of Fomapan 100 with it and found quite difficult to place the standard film roll in its place – and to remove it was also difficult, as if the film spool was slightly wider than its place. The winding of the film was equally hard, turning the winding knob was a pain.
Were the 120 film spools slightly different in size (smaller) when these cameras were made ? I remember film spools with a central core in wood, Were they shorter ?
Thank you in advance for your input
Joao
I shot a test rol of Fomapan 100 with it and found quite difficult to place the standard film roll in its place – and to remove it was also difficult, as if the film spool was slightly wider than its place. The winding of the film was equally hard, turning the winding knob was a pain.
Were the 120 film spools slightly different in size (smaller) when these cameras were made ? I remember film spools with a central core in wood, Were they shorter ?
Thank you in advance for your input
Joao
Muggins
Junk magnet
I've not noticed any particular size difference with older spools, and I've a lot of old 120 cameras. My suspicion is that either you haven't quite got the film holders quite right (some manufacturers seem to have been determined to make their cameras as hard to load as possible) or that something is bent.
Joao
Negativistic forever
Thank you. This particular camera has a label inside mentioning Voigtlander films ( supposed to be used with it, I believe) I tought they could possibly be shorter....The difference in size is minimal, but enough to make it difficult to load and especially to wind the film. A bent part is unlikely, it happens in both spools.
I will try with other spools.
Regards
Joao
I will try with other spools.
Regards
Joao
seany65
Well-known
I've had a few old 120 cameras - Welta Perle (though NO "Perle" written on the front below the little hand strap, just "Welta" and "Welta" written on the back), Ferannia Elioflex, etc. and most of them have given trouble when winding on towards the end of the film, or when trying to take the film out due to the take up chamber seemingly being more "full" than that camera seemed to be designed for.
Dachs99
Down Under
Nickel
Newbie
Getting back to filter size, I have just purchased a metal brillant with Skopar and am seeking answers and found this post.
There is a similar camera on the bay with a Hoya 30.5mm filter attached. It is a screw on and is possibly made for a 500mm mirror lens where the filters screw on the rear element. It does not cover the distance marks. You can buy similar in sets of four if you are keen. Sadly they are not cheap
There is a similar camera on the bay with a Hoya 30.5mm filter attached. It is a screw on and is possibly made for a 500mm mirror lens where the filters screw on the rear element. It does not cover the distance marks. You can buy similar in sets of four if you are keen. Sadly they are not cheap
seany65
Well-known
Nickel, I'm not sure how a threaded filter would fit onto a Voigt. Brillant.