What's your fast film combo? Electro 35

Ya know, for as long as I've been shooting my GSN I never knew that setting it to flash made the shutter speed 1/30th.
Since I often shoot my Canonet at 1/30th wide open with Delta 3200, I could do the same thing with my Yashica. Hmmmm...I might just try that tonight.
 
Just checked (you guys made me nervous) the lens on my Yashica Electro 35 GSN. Tight, tight, tight.

The comment about big and heavy is right. Makes it easier to hand hold at slow speeds. Lens is fast and amazing.
 
Inspired by furcafe's pics in the thread he links to above, I too am trying Neopan 1600 and will report back on it.

Welcome to the forum Dirk! Good to have you here!! :)
 
pshinkaw said:
I try to use only shutter speed prefered cameras with manual override for sports photography. Used film cameras are so inexpensive these days that it is quite affordable to set aside a camera bag with a few bodies and lenses with some Fuji 1600 film. When the game calls I can just grab it and go. The Fuji 1600 looks no more grainier than Fuji 800, which in turn looks no worse than Kodacolor 400 did 20 yearas ago. I think we need to give a lot of credit to the longevity of yesterdays cameras to the improved quality of today's film.

I don't think you can easily upgrade a CCD like you can a film casette.

-Paul

The Electro 35 is probably not a good choice for sports. You've got no clue what the shutter speed is except for "Too Slow" and "Too Fast".

The advantage of the DReb for sports is 2 fold, 1) good high iso perfomance 2) ability to shoot freely. But sports is definitely the domain of SLR's (I have 16 other SLR's besides my DReb), but I'll refrain from SLR talk on RFF :)
 
Kin Lau said:
The Electro 35 is probably not a good choice for sports. You've got no clue what the shutter speed is except for "Too Slow" and "Too Fast".

Kin, depends what kind of sports. I garee, sometimes a rf is too slow to focus and you can't get close enough etc etc, BUT.
The GSN - and a rf in general - has two advantages as well: You see what's happening out of the picture frame and during the exposure; you don't have shutter lag.
I can show/tell you an example. Two years ago my friends had their yearly beach volleyball tournament, and I was documenting it with an SLR and 135/2.8 lens. While the photos are very nice with a shutter speed freezing all the action, the ball usually went out of the frame before the photo was eventually taken, except one single frame with a half ball at the very edge. Should have anticipated.
A year later (in 2004), i went to the same place, same happening, same people more or less, same weather conditions, but took a GSN with me.
There's motion blur in some of the photos, not disturbing at all, and the ball was always where I wanted to be on the picture, not 1/10 seconds further.
See here a GSN-made example: motion blur on the feet of the jumbing player, ball right where it should be.

However, due to my framing errors i've cut some feet off (had to get used to the fact that the framelines are the edge of the photo, not the viewfinder's edge).
 
I actually have shots of a unicycle stunt team with my Leica IIIa w/ Elmar. One shot has the cyclist in mid air, see http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=008qwi
for the shots. You'll have to excuse the lack of post-processing on the scans. On a bright day, f8 on iso100 film will get you around 1/250 or so, so you don't really even have to focus (the Leica shots were all at hyperfocal), so it's just frame and go, so the Electro 35 can be quite good in that situation. I checked my GS, and @ f8, everything should be good btwn 10-20ft, so it's about perfect for volleyball.

As for shutter lag, wait till you try birds. They move _so_fast_ that at 3fps, the bird can be facing 3 completely different directions in 1 sec.
 
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