Whooo-eeee! Got me one of them thar "Texas Leica's"

farlymac

PF McFarland
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Another box full of p&s cameras were traded for whatever I could find, and today I came home with a Fujica GW690 Pro 6X9. It came from an owner local to the camera store, so the low number count matches the condition of body. Just the light seals need some attention. It has the lens cap, neck strap, and soft pouch cover (which I never knew existed), but is missing the lens hood. I'm going to try a couple of work-around ideas to see which works best. Two things to look out for are viewfinder blockage, and vignetting. The only original hoods I could find came with a camera attached, and I don't feel like paying over $500 for a hood. Also can't locate an instruction manual, but since it's such a simple camera, and after looking at a couple of videos that cover the operations I don't really need one. I just like to see what accessories are out there, and would hope the manual has a listing or chart showing them.

I've checked out the post https://www.rangefinderforum.com/node/147526 to see what others could add to my knowledge base. I'm not concerned with the counter, so after I replace the seals, and figure out which hood to use I plan on using up some of that Acros II I purchased last year. Or maybe some Tri-X, and save the Acros for the M645. Yeah, that sounds about right.

PF
 
Congrats, PF, that should be fun. Remember you need to add a zero to the frame count number to get the true count. I have a GW670III bought used from an RFF member. Its hood is telescoping, not easily removable. I preferred using 220 film with it, for 20 exposures, 10 otherwise.

On mine, and perhaps yours as well, it is important to take up the slack on the film when loading, else the take-up roll will not roll the film tightly, resulting in difficult film advance and fogged edges when exposed film is removed. Put a bit of drag on the supply roll with your thumb... Let's see some pics!
 
Something like this should work on the Fuji. If you want something less expensive one of these. People tend to remove the hoods on the GW690 and GSW690 as it makes access to the shutter/aperture dials easier. Otherwise you have to extend the hood to see/adjust the settings. I had a GW690 and GSW690 and both had the hood removed before I got them.

Have fun, great camera.

Shawn
 
I have the mk iii and the hood is just 24mm long. Doubt it is really effective. But most of the hindrance comes from its retractable design.

I've shot a couple rolls, great camera so far.
 
Farly, I had the Wide Fuji 6x9 with the 65mm f5.6 lens.
Working with it's familiar 2:3 aspect ratio made for easy transition back and forth from 35mm.
If I recall correctly, it was $1,200. I thought of it as a $1,000 lens/shutter permanently attached to a $200 body.
Image quality was A++!
An excellent lens and a huge negative will do that for ya. :)
Happy shooting to you!
 
Congrats! I have the model II. I like to think of it as more of a Texas Canonet (though, I don't think that name will ever stick). It has so many wonderful attributes - light weight (relative to size), amazing lens and giant negatives. The downsides are it's very dim/low contrast rangefinder patch (that's it). Even though it was designed for group portraiture, I find it is really well suited for waist-up shots.

Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Javier Marin by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Matt of Oregon Barrel Works by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Rick DeFerarri - Owner Oregon Barrel Works by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Hope you enjoy shooting yours! Post some photos when you get a chance.
 
I'm totally in love with mine, and I think you'll have the same reaction. It is an impressive looking beast; my experience is that its appearance can sometimes work in your favor, as people are curious about the camera, and you certainly can't be accused of being stealthy. But sometimes, instead of relaxing people, the camera frightens them (some kind of terrorist device, maybe?), and you have to work harder to establish a rapport. Or sometimes give up! In effect, the Fuji's appearance seems to intensify the reactions that people have to cameras, one way or another. Of course, these observations apply to my experience shooting strangers in rural areas, at rodeos, fairs, etc., and your process may be very different. In short, mastering the camera's physical controls is a no-brainer, but there's a learning curve to using it as a tool to explore your world.
Acquiring a 690 is a major decision to commit to a certain type of photography. Congratulations on your decision to take that plunge!
 
Doug said:
Congrats, PF, that should be fun. Remember you need to add a zero to the frame count number to get the true count. I have a GW670III bought used from an RFF member. Its hood is telescoping, not easily removable. I preferred using 220 film with it, for 20 exposures, 10 otherwise.

Yep, the old ten frames per digit. Although you hear a lot of folks saying that's one roll per every ten counts, when it's really anytime you depress the shutter release button, so you have to count all the dry fires and anytime the back is open and you hit the release button, wound or not. Fuji tried to convince everyone they had to service the shutter every 5000 actuation's, but the Canadian shops said it's more like 10000, and some repair persons say it doesn't even matter. Run it till it drops! And I really miss 220 film. Maybe some day it will come back.

Doug said:
On mine, and perhaps yours as well, it is important to take up the slack on the film when loading, else the take-up roll will not roll the film tightly, resulting in difficult film advance and fogged edges when exposed film is removed. Put a bit of drag on the supply roll with your thumb... Let's see some pics!

That hasn't changed in the last fifty years.

shawn Something like [URL="https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Voigtlander-Panasonic-Fujifilm-Olympus/dp/B07D8ZD2VP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U4YEE0BS9ED5&keywords=67mm+hood&qid=1648204929&sprefix=67mm+hood%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-3" said:
this[/URL] should work on the Fuji. If you want something less expensive one of these. People tend to remove the hoods on the GW690 and GSW690 as it makes access to the shutter/aperture dials easier. Otherwise you have to extend the hood to see/adjust the settings. I had a GW690 and GSW690 and both had the hood removed before I got them.

Have fun, great camera.

Shawn

I've got one of the Hoage's on order, and a couple other styles that are a bit slimmer than the vented hood design.

OlivierAOP I have the mk iii and the hood is just 24mm long. Doubt it is really effective. But most of the hindrance comes from its retractable design. I've shot a couple rolls said:
I'm just looking for something to cut down on the extreme side light angles as they can always bounce around inside the lens.

Yeah, I'd have been even more ecstatic if I'd gotten the GSW. But I'm happy with the GW. It's a nice, simple camera I don't need to get much in the way of accessories for.

the_jim Congrats! I have the model II. I like to think of it as more of a Texas Canonet (though said:
Yeah, Jim, but a Canonet has a meter. The plan is to replace the seals, and when the hood arrives hope for good weather. I hope I can match your fine examples, but I'm not much of a portraitist.

Retro-Grouch I'm totally in love with mine said:
People stop me all the time while I'm taking photos, mostly asking if I work for the County. Doesn't matter what camera I have. I've used 6x9 cameras before, but they were all folders. I wanted something more sturdy (I utterly hate bellows leaks), and a bit more modern. Everything I've ever read about these cameras says there is not much that goes wrong with them. My wrist brace may prove to be the most trouble I have with using the camera.

PF
 
I should use mine more (GW690III) - it fits my hands well, is totally manual, and doesn’t need a battery. The soft case is something I never use, but I keep it since it came with the camera. Adjusting the settings is awkward though - I don’t know what Fuji was thinking.


7BA4C8C5-E70A-4305-B13B-7461349FCAFE.jpg
 
I bought a GSW690III quite a few years ago and found a use for it that really fits my style. I shot infrared with a converted digital camera for years and when I went back to film, started shooting a lot on infrared sensitive film. When I got the 690, I realized I had a big 720nm IR filter someone gave me and it was the perfect size. I tried it with JCH Streetpan 400 and loved it. You or others might want to try medium format infrared too, if you haven't already.

Here are two shots from Plains, Georgia.

Carter Store #3 by Neal Wellons, on Flickr

Plains Plant View 2 by Neal Wellons, on Flickr

This reminds me that I need to get it out again as I have mainly been shooting IR in my Barnacks.
 
I should use mine more (GW690III) - it fits my hands well, is totally manual, and doesn’t need a battery. The soft case is something I never use, but I keep it since it came with the camera. Adjusting the settings is awkward though - I don’t know what Fuji was thinking.


filedata/fetch?id=4776898&d=1648263071

I think they were going with the premise that you could do an EV change much easier with the shutter speed and aperture control rings close together. The soft case I'll just use for storing the camera between uses to keep the dust off it.

PF
 
I bought a GSW690III quite a few years ago and found a use for it that really fits my style. I shot infrared with a converted digital camera for years and when I went back to film, started shooting a lot on infrared sensitive film. When I got the 690, I realized I had a big 720nm IR filter someone gave me and it was the perfect size. I tried it with JCH Streetpan 400 and loved it. You or others might want to try medium format infrared too, if you haven't already.

This reminds me that I need to get it out again as I have mainly been shooting IR in my Barnacks.

Thanks for the info. That gives me some ideas for later on. Lovely shots you took of Plains, GA.

PF
 
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