denishr
アナログ侘・&#
I got a nice GT recently, but it seems to have some problems, for which I'd like to get some advice before taking the sledgehammer out 
Anyway, the camera seemed to work OK when I got it a few days ago - I dry-fired it several times, just to get a feeling. It behaves a bit differently from my Lynx, as far as I remember (Lynx is away on loan right now). Namely, it makes a "clack" sound when rewinding for the next shot, not when actually pressing the shutter
After some research, I found that it's supposed to work that way.
But, what seems strange is that, when slowly pressing the shutter, it buzzes, making a funny electrical sound - not mechanical, like the whirring of the slow speeds on a Leica or Zorki, but more like squealing, or whatever Definitely electrical, like some very small buzzer. It does not buzz all the way when pressing the shutter: actually, it does it once at the beginning of shutter button travel, and once before the end, before the shutter actually fires - I guess it's in positions when the warning LEDs are turned on. If the shutter release travel is about 5mm, then it's heard after about 1mm pressure, and then again at about 4mm. Sometimes it only buzzes once, at the beginning... Strange.
Anyway, after some dry-firing, I tested it with some exposed film in a canister I keep for this purpose - to test loading and rewinding film. I loaded it, but noticed that it does not wind the film properly for the next shot. I opened the bottom plate to see what's going on. Saw how it behaves, and the film advance locking mechanism - the black shaft that goes down when pressing the shutter, and which jumps up upon winding, and which produces that "clunk".
I realized that the rewind button release (chrome one that's pressed to release the wind-on gears for rewinding film back) won't come out after pressing it (it should come out when you wind the shutter!). I did some fiddling, and also greased it a tiny bit, so it wouldn't stick, and it got better. Closed the bottom, and tried again.
The "clunk" sound when winding was gone!
So, I searched a bit at the usual sites (Matt Denton, "Classic Camera Repair forum", etc.), and found out about the "pad". Opened the top, and from what I could see from the front, the pad was missing. Must have gotten lost in transport...
I followed Jon Flanders' advice, and managed to replace the pad from the front, without total disassembly. I used a piece of Jon Goodman's light seal kit foam (2mm thick). No problem there.
However, that didn't solve the "missing clunk" problem
I opened the bottom again, and unscrewed the screw of the film advance locking mechanism (see above) until its groove was aligned with the locking "tooth" again. Now it worked OK, clunking and all.
Closed everything, and tried it with a roll of film.
Exposures all over the place
So, back to square one...
After some more dry-firing, with back open, I came to this:
when pressing the shutter release quickly, the shutter speeds behave as they should.
However, when I squeeze the shutter slowly and gently, as I usually do, I get very inconsistent (incorrect) shutter speeds, toghether with that "electro-buzzing" sound.
Hmmm....
Looks to me the sliding shutter contacts need cleaning or something... Maybe the lost pad got stuck there somewhere... From what I understand about how it's supposed to work, and looking at the photos on the Web, I guess I am looking at a lens panel removal in order to get to the contacts
While I'm there, I'll probably use something else for the pad - Jon suggested to use something harder than foam - probably neoprene, which won't compress that much.
Maybe I'll just replace the pad, and see if things get better. But that buzzing leaves me wondering...
Any suggestions are welcome.
I'll keep the hammer ready, just in case
Denis
Anyway, the camera seemed to work OK when I got it a few days ago - I dry-fired it several times, just to get a feeling. It behaves a bit differently from my Lynx, as far as I remember (Lynx is away on loan right now). Namely, it makes a "clack" sound when rewinding for the next shot, not when actually pressing the shutter
After some research, I found that it's supposed to work that way.
But, what seems strange is that, when slowly pressing the shutter, it buzzes, making a funny electrical sound - not mechanical, like the whirring of the slow speeds on a Leica or Zorki, but more like squealing, or whatever
Definitely electrical, like some very small buzzer. It does not buzz all the way when pressing the shutter: actually, it does it once at the beginning of shutter button travel, and once before the end, before the shutter actually fires - I guess it's in positions when the warning LEDs are turned on. If the shutter release travel is about 5mm, then it's heard after about 1mm pressure, and then again at about 4mm. Sometimes it only buzzes once, at the beginning... Strange.Anyway, after some dry-firing, I tested it with some exposed film in a canister I keep for this purpose - to test loading and rewinding film. I loaded it, but noticed that it does not wind the film properly for the next shot. I opened the bottom plate to see what's going on. Saw how it behaves, and the film advance locking mechanism - the black shaft that goes down when pressing the shutter, and which jumps up upon winding, and which produces that "clunk".
I realized that the rewind button release (chrome one that's pressed to release the wind-on gears for rewinding film back) won't come out after pressing it (it should come out when you wind the shutter!). I did some fiddling, and also greased it a tiny bit, so it wouldn't stick, and it got better. Closed the bottom, and tried again.
The "clunk" sound when winding was gone!
So, I searched a bit at the usual sites (Matt Denton, "Classic Camera Repair forum", etc.), and found out about the "pad". Opened the top, and from what I could see from the front, the pad was missing.
Must have gotten lost in transport...I followed Jon Flanders' advice, and managed to replace the pad from the front, without total disassembly. I used a piece of Jon Goodman's light seal kit foam (2mm thick). No problem there.
However, that didn't solve the "missing clunk" problem
I opened the bottom again, and unscrewed the screw of the film advance locking mechanism (see above) until its groove was aligned with the locking "tooth" again. Now it worked OK, clunking and all.
Closed everything, and tried it with a roll of film.
Exposures all over the place
So, back to square one...
After some more dry-firing, with back open, I came to this:
when pressing the shutter release quickly, the shutter speeds behave as they should.
However, when I squeeze the shutter slowly and gently, as I usually do, I get very inconsistent (incorrect) shutter speeds, toghether with that "electro-buzzing" sound.
Hmmm....
Looks to me the sliding shutter contacts need cleaning or something... Maybe the lost pad got stuck there somewhere... From what I understand about how it's supposed to work, and looking at the photos on the Web, I guess I am looking at a lens panel removal in order to get to the contacts
While I'm there, I'll probably use something else for the pad - Jon suggested to use something harder than foam - probably neoprene, which won't compress that much.
Maybe I'll just replace the pad, and see if things get better. But that buzzing leaves me wondering...
Any suggestions are welcome.
I'll keep the hammer ready, just in case
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Thanks for the advice. I was afraid I'd get an answer like that.
If I get lost in the process, I'll ask for help - otherwise, I found some rather good photos online....
I'm just scared of unsoldering all those wires - or, rather, resoldering them back
Regards,
Denis
If I get lost in the process, I'll ask for help - otherwise, I found some rather good photos online....
I'm just scared of unsoldering all those wires - or, rather, resoldering them back
Regards,
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Heh, as I get older, I seem to also get more patient - particulary since I started DIY repairs of "old" cameras... Wouldn't have done it twenty years ago, I guess - the impatience of youth
The Internet also helps a lot - obviously... I am always amazed at the quantity of help available areound the world - and with RFF, help is always a few keypresses away.
Thanks a lot for the advice!!!
I'll try it out soon...
Regards,
Denis
The Internet also helps a lot - obviously... I am always amazed at the quantity of help available areound the world - and with RFF, help is always a few keypresses away.
Thanks a lot for the advice!!!
I'll try it out soon...
Regards,
Denis
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
Denis - the soft material from the light seal kit might be inadequate for repplacing the pad. It has to keep a certain distance between two metallic thingies. If it can be compressed, might not work as it should.
My first guess.
The electric buzzing should come from dirty contacts. One of my gsn's does that too. However it does not interfere with the operation of the camera. When the release button is almost in the releasing position, the buzzing stops and the red/yellow lights act as they should.
Exposures all over the place - indicates Pad Problem.
My first guess.
The electric buzzing should come from dirty contacts. One of my gsn's does that too. However it does not interfere with the operation of the camera. When the release button is almost in the releasing position, the buzzing stops and the red/yellow lights act as they should.
Exposures all over the place - indicates Pad Problem.
jon_flanders
Well-known
Pherdinand said:
I agree, put a new, harder pad with the exact dimensions in first, before tearing things apart.
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Thanks for suggestions, guys.
I've started disassembling it - managed to peel the leatheretter off. Wasn't easy
Unfortunately, I just got an urgent job to do, so the gutted Yashica will wait for a couple of days until I return to it. I'll have to open it this time, if nothing else, just to see how the sliding contacts look like, and to glue the new pad in place....
Denis
I've started disassembling it - managed to peel the leatheretter off. Wasn't easy
Unfortunately, I just got an urgent job to do, so the gutted Yashica will wait for a couple of days until I return to it. I'll have to open it this time, if nothing else, just to see how the sliding contacts look like, and to glue the new pad in place....
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
The Horror!!!
The Horror!!!
Well, here we go...
I just couldn't leave it alone.
Here's the result:
The Horror!!!
Well, here we go...
I just couldn't leave it alone.
Here's the result:
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
The good news is that I managed to replace the famous "pad".... Without too much hassle, since it's quite accessible this way
About two hours after this photo was taken, I even managed to put the lens panel back. Shutter did not work
Another hour later, I managed to put it back AND to have a shutter that fires.
I'll leave the rest for some other time - tomorow maybe.
I've had enough of this horror for one day
Denis
About two hours after this photo was taken, I even managed to put the lens panel back. Shutter did not work
Another hour later, I managed to put it back AND to have a shutter that fires.
I'll leave the rest for some other time - tomorow maybe.
I've had enough of this horror for one day
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
After some practice this afternoon/evening, this doesn't even look that scary.
We'll see if it works tomorrow - it's way past midnight here, and I've got some tedious translation work to do tomorrow - and after that, this Yashica will be a pleasure to work on
Thanks to all - I'll post more results, hopefully tomorrow.
Denis
We'll see if it works tomorrow - it's way past midnight here, and I've got some tedious translation work to do tomorrow - and after that, this Yashica will be a pleasure to work on
Thanks to all - I'll post more results, hopefully tomorrow.
Denis
jon_flanders
Well-known
Horror is right. When I tried this operation the leatherette shredded like the back of a sunburned lizard.
Then I pulled a wire or two loose. Other wires clogged the rangefinder mechanism. I couldn't get the pad arm back the way it should be.
After the second wire broke, I gave up and consigned that camera to parts heaven. I decided the needle on the side of the pad going over the top of lens element microsurgery was for me.
Congrats and hats off are in order if you get this working. You got the toothpaste back into the tube.
Then I pulled a wire or two loose. Other wires clogged the rangefinder mechanism. I couldn't get the pad arm back the way it should be.
After the second wire broke, I gave up and consigned that camera to parts heaven. I decided the needle on the side of the pad going over the top of lens element microsurgery was for me.
Congrats and hats off are in order if you get this working. You got the toothpaste back into the tube.
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Looking back, I think the leatherette was the toughest part. It was very difficult to peel back. I even applied some Nivea body milk to soften it a bit Left it for abut half an hour after applying the "softener", but it was still very hard to peel off. Thankfully, I did not damage it (much)
The leatherette is still loose, and I'll test everything later today. Once I'm satisfied eveything works as it should, I'll reglue it.
It'll have to wait till later tonight - I'm swamped with (paid) work
Denis
Left it for abut half an hour after applying the "softener", but it was still very hard to peel off. Thankfully, I did not damage it (much) The leatherette is still loose, and I'll test everything later today. Once I'm satisfied eveything works as it should, I'll reglue it.
It'll have to wait till later tonight - I'm swamped with (paid) work
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
BTW, greyhoundman, can you provide some pointers for cleaning the lens contacts?
Do I just open the lens from the front, as described on Matt Denton's site? Where the heck ARE those contacts?
It's next on my list. I hate that buzzing
Denis
Do I just open the lens from the front, as described on Matt Denton's site? Where the heck ARE those contacts?
It's next on my list. I hate that buzzing
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Yipeeee!
Yipeeee!
It's done!!!
All in all, it was easier than I thought it would be (apart from the leatherette! - what did they use to glue it in place?)
Assembled, letherette reglued, everything retightened. PC synch contact resoldered...
Exposures seem to be working OK now - and the electric buzzing whne pressing the shutter has diminished significantly, and is not heard that often - in fact, it's (almost) gone.
I'll have to shoot a test roll tomorrow, but it seems to be fixed and ready to use. This one will probably go to my brother, who will then give me back my Lynx
Thanks, guys, you've been helpful - particularly greyhoundman.
Ahh, this really made my day. I just LOOOOVE it when I return one of these to life!
Here it is - put back together....
Denis
Yipeeee!
It's done!!!
All in all, it was easier than I thought it would be (apart from the leatherette! - what did they use to glue it in place?)
Assembled, letherette reglued, everything retightened. PC synch contact resoldered...
Exposures seem to be working OK now - and the electric buzzing whne pressing the shutter has diminished significantly, and is not heard that often - in fact, it's (almost) gone.
I'll have to shoot a test roll tomorrow, but it seems to be fixed and ready to use. This one will probably go to my brother, who will then give me back my Lynx
Thanks, guys, you've been helpful - particularly greyhoundman.
Ahh, this really made my day. I just LOOOOVE it when I return one of these to life!
Here it is - put back together....
Denis
R
Roman
Guest
You used UHU to glue on the leatherette??? I would never have thought of that (though UHU brings back memories of primary school craft classes...)
Good job, looks very nice!
Roman
Good job, looks very nice!
Roman
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
greyhoundman said:
Never occured to me to check that - but I did check just now - I'm proud to report that it works!
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Roman said:
Roman, I used UHU glue to reglue the rangefinder cover (thin metal piece on top of the VF/RF assembly). Just three tiny drops in corners, where it was already glued before. I removed that tin cover by cutting through the old glue with an Xacto knife (plastic scalpel)...
I reglued the leatherette using "Neostik" - a Croatian brand of glue. It says "contact rubber adhesive" on the packing... I wouldn't trust their translation, though. It says it "bonds rubber, leather, cork, textile, plastics together or onto wood, concrete, metal, etc."
I used the same glue for my Kiev 4A skin job - the glue holds quite well, but on the other hand, is not that horribly difficult to peel off - perfect for re-leathering cameras, I guess
Denis
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Update and wrap-up
Update and wrap-up
Update: just developed a short test roll of B&W (Efke KB100, my usual stuff) shot with the Yashica. All exposures perfect! Shome shots in bright light outdoors, some indoors in very poor light - all exposed properly! Well, several of those shot indoors have some motion blur, but that's not camera's fault.
In short, the "surgery" was successful... Anyone have a Yashica GSN/GT that needs a repair?
Denis
Update and wrap-up
Update: just developed a short test roll of B&W (Efke KB100, my usual stuff) shot with the Yashica. All exposures perfect! Shome shots in bright light outdoors, some indoors in very poor light - all exposed properly! Well, several of those shot indoors have some motion blur, but that's not camera's fault.
In short, the "surgery" was successful... Anyone have a Yashica GSN/GT that needs a repair?
Denis
jon_flanders
Well-known
denishr said:Update: just developed a short test roll of B&W (Efke KB100, my usual stuff) shot with the Yashica. All exposures perfect! Shome shots in bright light outdoors, some indoors in very poor light - all exposed properly! Well, several of those shot indoors have some motion blur, but that's not camera's fault.
In short, the "surgery" was successful... Anyone have a Yashica GSN/GT that needs a repair?
Denis
Oh, oh, he's got the fix the Yashica bug. No known cure.