Zf and M-mount lenses

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PEC

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I am considering to get a Zf for the following lenses. I have only used them on my Fuji APS-C but am interested in getting them on FF. Any comments if the IQ will be good on the Zf. Smearing, Corner softness, Vignetting, etc?

M-mount Voigt 21/4, 12/5.6, 35/2.5
M-hexanon 50/2
M-rokkor 90/4

I have a couple AI-S lenses (not sure if chipped). 85/2 AIS, 105/4 macro AIS.

Also have an AR Hexanon 135/3,2

Thanks
 
I don't have a Zf camera but I have used some of those lenses on a Nikon Z6, in particular the Voigt 21/4 in Nikon S (rangefinder) mount. Also the Voigt 15/4.5 and 28/2.8 in M-mount. Anything less wide than 28mm will be fine with the Nikon Z full frame cameras.

Best,
-Tim
 
I don't like using MF on the mirrorless cameras I have, old eyes and a less than efficient focusing method. I have to jump to the zoomed in picture to really see if they are in focus, that just doesn't work for me. On the Fuji X-E3 the split screen reproduction is a joke, or at least I can't make it work. I've used the CV 21 and 35 on my Z7 with flawless resultsin spite of the trouble focusing. In particular the new CV 21 and 35 are fantastic.
 
One good reason to get Nikon ZF is because it appears to have best manual focus aid of any cameras , manual focus confirmation dot works with any lens as far as I understand . I'm not sure why dont all mirrorless cameras have this option.
 
Darthfeeble said:
I don't like using MF on the mirrorless cameras I have, old eyes and a less than efficient focusing method. I have to jump to the zoomed in picture to really see if they are in focus, that just doesn't work for me. On the Fuji X-E3 the split screen reproduction is a joke, or at least I can't make it work. I've used the CV 21 and 35 on my Z7 with flawless resultsin spite of the trouble focusing. In particular the new CV 21 and 35 are fantastic.
Click to expand...
I hear you on this with the Nikon Z "zoom in method to focus". Something I learned years ago covering sports is how to assign the back AF-L button to autofocus the camera and to keep the shutter button to just tripping the shutter. After doing this for years, it was a simple adjustment to make the AF-L button on the back of a Nikon Z series camera be the "Zoom In" button. Now, just like when I was trying to auto focus, I hit the AF-L button, it zooms in tight, I focus quickly, hit the AF-L button again, frame, and shoot. Might work for you too.

Best,
-Tim

PS: Another thing, with some of the Voightlander manual focus Z mount lenses, and maybe other manufacturer's manual focus Z mount lenses, when focusing, when you nail focus, a "frame" around the center of the image changes from red to green, letting you know you're dead on with focus.
 
Timmyjoe said:
I hear you on this with the Nikon Z "zoom in method to focus". Something I learned years ago covering sports is how to assign the back AF-L button to autofocus the camera and to keep the shutter button to just tripping the shutter. After doing this for years, it was a simple adjustment to make the AF-L button on the back of a Nikon Z series camera be the "Zoom In" button. Now, just like when I was trying to auto focus, I hit the AF-L button, it zooms in tight, I focus quickly, hit the AF-L button again, frame, and shoot. Might work for you too.

Best,
-Tim

PS: Another thing, with some of the Voightlander manual focus Z mount lenses, and maybe other manufacturer's manual focus Z mount lenses, when focusing, when you nail focus, a "frame" around the center of the image changes from red to green, letting you know you're dead on with focus.
Click to expand...
That it the same procedure that I use on my Z6. Works great
 
I think the OP's question was as much about image quality as it was about haptics. I am also interested in the question as there is a Nikon mirrorles FF camera in my future at some point.

One of the reasons I never put a toe in the Sony mirrorless waters was the performance of Leica M wides on those bodies. I always understood the issue to be a lack of coding to deal with the optical qualities of a non-coupled (electronically) lens with the wiz-bang body. And conversely, I have always understood the performance of on-brand lens/camera combinations, particularly withwide angle lenses, to be the product of exactly this pre-RAW processing (if you can call it that).

I see one reply above that directly addresses the issue. But there has to be more RFF real world experience than this. Plus illustrative examples?
 
Benjamin Marks said:
I think the OP's question was as much about image quality as it was about haptics. I am also interested in the question as there is a Nikon mirrorles FF camera in my future at some point.

One of the reasons I never put a toe in the Sony mirrorless waters was the performance of Leica M wides on those bodies. I always understood the issue to be a lack of coding to deal with the optical qualities of a non-coupled (electronically) lens with the wiz-bang body. And conversely, I have always understood the performance of on-brand lens/camera combinations, particularly withwide angle lenses, to be the product of exactly this pre-RAW processing (if you can call it that).

I see one reply above that directly addresses the issue. But there has to be more RFF real world experience than this. Plus illustrative examples?
Click to expand...

Problem is with thicker cover glass on the sensors. But it was mentioned here a while ago about Nikon's cameras having it less thicker.
 
About a month ago I picked up two Zf’s. One for me and one for my son. After playing around with my sons Zf I returned the other on and pick up a Sony A7CR. I was looking for a body for a 21mm Voigtlander 3.5, it worked well on both bodies but the Zf was just that little bit too big for what I was looking for.
Joe
 
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