Casper Schaugg
Newbie
Hello all, I recently got a zorki six. In troubleshooting it upon arrival, I noticed that only Speed B fires fully (but not in a usual bulb way, instead like a usual shutter). With the other speeds, both shutter curtains will get stuck, only right at the end for 1/30, around halfway for 1/60, a quarter way for 1/125, and so on. I have a feeling it is just grease and needs a service, but if anybody else has any at home fixes, please let me know.
One other diagnostic is that after it gets stuck, if I pull up on the shutter speed, select dial, it will finish the shot, (putting itself back in bulb mode) so I don’t think the problem is in the curtain track, but rather the shutter speed selector.
If anybody wants pictures, PM me. Thank you in advance!
I didn’t personally move the speed tile before priming the shudder, but I cannot speak for the previous owner
One other diagnostic is that after it gets stuck, if I pull up on the shutter speed, select dial, it will finish the shot, (putting itself back in bulb mode) so I don’t think the problem is in the curtain track, but rather the shutter speed selector.
If anybody wants pictures, PM me. Thank you in advance!
I didn’t personally move the speed tile before priming the shudder, but I cannot speak for the previous owner
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
You have typical gunk in the shutter rollers, springs. Most common condition for FSU LTM which wasn't serviced in decades.
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
This doesn't matter on a Zorki 6. That's only a problem on Soviet "LTM" rangefinders that have a slow speed mechanism like the Zorki 4.
But yes, it just sounds like this needs a proper clean and relubricate job. Not a flush clean - that won't get out all the original grease - but a proper teardown and thorough clean.
Casper Schaugg
Newbie
In your opinion is it something that can be done at home or should I send it in?
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I don't know you.
What I know where are lots of videos and old threads of how to disassemble Zorki/FED, but next to none how to assemble.
I also know why non of the western repair person is going to touch it.
Except one and mentioned on sub-forum where you should have posted.
But since you posted it in this subforum - return this camera, never waste your time with another FSU and get made in Japan Leica copy in known condition.
Mark C
Well-known
I agree with Ko.Fe.'s blunt advice, but if it was cheap it might be worth trying to fix it yourself in order to learn to repair this type of shutter. The non-collectible Leica screw mount cameras and clones are fairly simple, and most share the significant issue that a well done repair is often a significant percentage of their value, or beyond. Some can be great bargains if you can do basic repair work yourself.
Casper Schaugg
Newbie
sorry, I was unaware. I created my account just for help after receiving this camera.
When I woke up, my camera started to function again, so my hypothesis is that the shipping had freezed some of the grease (tho idk how realistic that is. In any case, it all works!
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
It happens.
Grease thickens in low temperatures and when something isn't being used enough.
You can, as a bit of a "fix", leave something near a source of warmth then "exercise" it until it moves more freely. This works with shutters, lens focusing helicals, and aperture rings. But it is a temporary fix at best; the grease will only thicken up with the next long period of inactivity and/or the next severe cold snap.
Also: ignore Ko.Fe. He's RFF's resident cranky old man. You get used to his cynicism in time!
(I say that with love, Kostya 😅 )
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
They call it - "exercise the shutter". For how long it fire it, is unknown. Normally functioning camera with this shutter type should have shutter working anywhere between +40 to -20 C. If it is not moving after been exposed to the cold, my comment #2
But moving shutter curtains doesn't really mean much until you develop test film with exposures taken through out of all speeds.
If you have even exposure, it is good. If not, my comment #2. Retention isn't really solution, should be only used as final step of CLA.