FOMAPAN 100, image samples

Ricoh 35L , Foma 100, Rodinal stand , v700. About 10 years ago I had problems with artifacts on Foma 200 negs ,but after switching to 100 no problems at all.
51196139071_c7e56427dc_c.jpg
 
Some more contact prints done with a quick scan, and this time more curves adjustment. Rolleicord V, Foma 100 dev in Adox XT3 stock.

BTW Foma has updated the edge mark imprinting machine for 120 Rollfilm, the new batch I bought (exp 2026) has a much more fine pixel text, and includes additional "A" frame numbers to denote half frame/645.

Ultra100-07 Rollei RFF.jpg
 
That's a very cool scene! And really challenges Foma 100's rather limited DR.
Thank you, @agentlossing! Actually, there was a storm rolling in at the top of Upper Inspiration Point (you can see the dark clouds in the upper right) and the light was rather flat. I took an incident reading from where I was standing on the lookout, but did wonder how the bright white snow would come out.
 
That's a very cool scene! And really challenges Foma 100's rather limited DR.
I think that's more down to developer than the film. I'm not familiar with L110 but based on name, dilution and image, I'm guessing it's an HC-110 clone, and as I mentioned earlier on this thread, HC-110 variants and derivatives tend to lead to blown highlights.

Rodinal is a far better developer for this film - much better dynamic range and tonal curve. Here's a recent one with a very contrasty scene:

Leica Ic - Roll 6 - Foma 100 - Rodinal (4).jpg
(Leica Ic, Voigtlander 28mm Color Skopar, Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1:50)

That would have been an absolute mess if I'd used HC-110 or LC29. As it is, nothing is completely blown out, midtones are where I like them, and there's a good amount of shadow detail. This is straight from the scanner, too - no levels adjustments at all.
 
I think that's more down to developer than the film. I'm not familiar with L110 but based on name, dilution and image, I'm guessing it's an HC-110 clone, and as I mentioned earlier on this thread, HC-110 variants and derivatives tend to lead to blown highlights.

Rodinal is a far better developer for this film - much better dynamic range and tonal curve. Here's a recent one with a very contrasty scene:

View attachment 4825129
(Leica Ic, Voigtlander 28mm Color Skopar, Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1:50)

That would have been an absolute mess if I'd used HC-110 or LC29. As it is, nothing is completely blown out, midtones are where I like them, and there's a good amount of shadow detail. This is straight from the scanner, too - no levels adjustments at all.
What's your favorite mix and timing/agitation? I usually use Rodinal on Foma 100 but I've still had blown highlights.
 
What's your favorite mix and timing/agitation? I usually use Rodinal on Foma 100 but I've still had blown highlights.
Standard 8:00 / 20ºC development time at 1:50 dilution, although it's generally better to get a bit colder (18/19ºC if you can) and extend dev times to suit. My notes for the roll that image came from say "developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 8:48 at 19ºC", for instance.

Agitation: I've started swirling the tank as soon as the developer goes in (no inversion) to avoid surge marks forming before you can get the lid on. Then 30 seconds of smooth & steady agitation via inversion once the lid's on, and do 10-15 seconds of similar agitation every minute. I think I average three inversions in that time, just to give some idea of pace.

I also usually do a quick circular swirl before tapping the tank on the sink on each round of agitation as another way of trying to avoid surge marks. They've been a real bane of my life in recent years; I think it's because the lid on the new-style Paterson tank I bought two years ago takes too long to get in place, and so I often get uneven development like this at the start of a roll if I'm not careful:
1691686464283.png
 
Standard 8:00 / 20ºC development time at 1:50 dilution, although it's generally better to get a bit colder (18/19ºC if you can) and extend dev times to suit. My notes for the roll that image came from say "developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 8:48 at 19ºC", for instance.

Agitation: I've started swirling the tank as soon as the developer goes in (no inversion) to avoid surge marks forming before you can get the lid on. Then 30 seconds of smooth & steady agitation via inversion once the lid's on, and do 10-15 seconds of similar agitation every minute. I think I average three inversions in that time, just to give some idea of pace.

I also usually do a quick circular swirl before tapping the tank on the sink on each round of agitation as another way of trying to avoid surge marks. They've been a real bane of my life in recent years; I think it's because the lid on the new-style Paterson tank I bought two years ago takes too long to get in place, and so I often get uneven development like this at the start of a roll if I'm not careful:
View attachment 4825130
I thought that was bromide drag -- I got a lot of it on some of my earliest rolls, but could be I work more quickly and smoothly now. Definitely a familiar issue with this film, for me at least.

Edit: should add, that was with Cinestill DF96, not with Rodinal.
 
I think that's more down to developer than the film. I'm not familiar with L110 but based on name, dilution and image, I'm guessing it's an HC-110 clone, and as I mentioned earlier on this thread, HC-110 variants and derivatives tend to lead to blown highlights.

Rodinal is a far better developer for this film - much better dynamic range and tonal curve. Here's a recent one with a very contrasty scene:

View attachment 4825129
(Leica Ic, Voigtlander 28mm Color Skopar, Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1:50)

That would have been an absolute mess if I'd used HC-110 or LC29. As it is, nothing is completely blown out, midtones are where I like them, and there's a good amount of shadow detail. This is straight from the scanner, too - no levels adjustments at all.
LegacyPro L110 is a HC-110 clone. Freestyle Photo where I bought it describes it as:
"...a highly concentrated liquid developer. It is intended for use with a variety of black and white film... It provides equivalent results to Kodak HC-110, when used similarly."

@Coldkennels, I appreciate your recommendations for Rodinal and image samples. I definitely plan to reference it. Do you have a preferred flavor of Rodinal? When I was a beginner at home developing, my first developer was the Rollei Compard R09 variety.
 
Do you have a preferred flavor of Rodinal? When I was a beginner at home developing, my first developer was the Rollei Compard R09 variety.
I used to use the Compard R09 one myself. It's becoming nigh-impossible to find in a post-Brexit UK, so I've moved over to this stuff from BelliniFoto: BelliniFoto RDL ~ Brand New Formulation of Rodinal R09 / Adonal ~ 100ml or 250ml - Nik & Trick Photo Services

They claim it "produces better contrast, improved D.Max, with some fog clearing ability", but I'm not sure I really see any difference, personally. The two formulas are interchangeable in development times, and I don't think I could pick out a Foma/Rodinal image taken with RDL compared to the R09 results.

The only thing I'm marginally concerned about is lifespan. R09 lasted forever as long as it was kept in the dark; on the other hand, I bought my first bottle of RDL in April, and there's already some chunky crystalline sediment forming. Still develops film okay, though.
 
Shot a roll today that is drying as we speak. Took a steam train and Foma 100 in the Fuji 6x9 makes for a nice look, then I want to try a bit more this film in Rodinal before autumn and winter darkness negates the use of ISO 100 film handheld, which is soon.

IIRC. Adox Rodinal (Adonal) is the direct descendant of the postwar Agfa Rodinal; I found a bottle of this and prefer it, it is also the one with the strongest shelf life. R09 is an older formulation. With the east/west split different companies offered different formulations.

For HC110, I haven't had any issues and used Dev H (1:63) at 10 minutes. But I should check if/where I have negatives that could show DR limitations.
 
I believe Arista EDU 100 is rerolled Fomapan 100

Here is one I shot back in April while walking around downtown Dallas, with my Zorki 1E and a Canon 35m009.jpgm F2.8
 
So much of how a B&W film looks is dependent on how (and in what) it is developed. I am amazed to see such uniformly excellent rendering from such a diverse group of photographers - all with their own unique styles and techniques. I will certainly giving this film a try when my current '100' is used-up.
 
Leica MP, Summarit 35/2.5
Semi-Stand Development 500ml (Mixing Ratio 200 : 2 : 1 - Water : Rodinal : HC-110) 2x 40min
 

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