GaryLH
Mentor
I forgot to add the bottom right and top left crops
I forgot to add the bottom right and top left crops
The af focus point was dead enter of the wall btw.
Bottom right corner
I forgot to add the bottom right and top left crops
The af focus point was dead enter of the wall btw.
Bottom right corner
GaryLH
Mentor
Top left corner
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Jaw-dropping resolution and sharpness across the frame. Whoa!
I'm trying to figure this out now. Originally everyone was gaga about Foveon sensors for their color rendition. With the DP2M, it seems the conversation has switched to the sensor-matched lens.
The verdict on the color seems to be hanging in the balance, as we hear reports of color drift, splotching, etc...
I was just sending all of my Velvia positives back to Taipei to get developed, but that is becoming unbearably slow. Were I to buy the film and develop here in western Europe, the price of a DP2M wouldn't even cover a year's worth (and that's not including scanning, which I can fortunately do myself).
I am really bowled over by some of the technical qualities of the DP2M images, enough to want to try it out. I wonder if I have the patience to make it work for me, particularly with regards to color???
I'm trying to figure this out now. Originally everyone was gaga about Foveon sensors for their color rendition. With the DP2M, it seems the conversation has switched to the sensor-matched lens.
The verdict on the color seems to be hanging in the balance, as we hear reports of color drift, splotching, etc...
I was just sending all of my Velvia positives back to Taipei to get developed, but that is becoming unbearably slow. Were I to buy the film and develop here in western Europe, the price of a DP2M wouldn't even cover a year's worth (and that's not including scanning, which I can fortunately do myself).
I am really bowled over by some of the technical qualities of the DP2M images, enough to want to try it out. I wonder if I have the patience to make it work for me, particularly with regards to color???
GaryLH
Mentor
At iso 800 I can just barely c some color smearing. By 1600 it is noticeable and depending out what u are shooting, color drift
. :bang: By 3200 forget it..It is really a 100-400 iso camera. The out of camera jpg are ok up to 200, but to truly see what the camera can do u need raw.
I don't shoot color slide or neg any more only b&w. Develop and scan my own, mainly 120.
As I have said in other forum threads color is digital, b&w is film
.. When I first started, I was using panatomic x, plus x and tri x (25, 125, and 400). This camera forces me to use techniques I have almost forgotten about. Been spoiled by image stabilization and high iso capabilities of today's digital cameras.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
There is a really interesting thread over at FM about PP challenges with the files from the DP2M. Guys using Cornerfix to fix up magenta clouds and cyan edges, as well as some occasional green blotching. Check it out!
It doesn't really motivate me all that much, and in some cases I actually prefer the imperfections. Go figure!
As for Velvia, I will continue to shoot some as long as it is available and I can afford it! Just love the look and haven't found anything like it in digital. Not necessarily better, but certainly unique.
It doesn't really motivate me all that much, and in some cases I actually prefer the imperfections. Go figure!
As for Velvia, I will continue to shoot some as long as it is available and I can afford it! Just love the look and haven't found anything like it in digital. Not necessarily better, but certainly unique.
GaryLH
Mentor
Some additional comments
Some additional comments
Sigma photo raw SW still has not crashed on me, but I suspect it is because I only use it as a raw to tiff converter. I do all my real work in aperture.
I like the way sigma implemented their quick menu system. Pretty fast to get to critical things that need to be changed. So far have not reconfigured from default.
Auto white balance when compared to Sony rx100, not as good.
Once af starts hunting or it just plain mis-focuses, ie. green confirm, but from LCD obvious bad focus, time to go to mf mode. Good thing easy to do.. with the dedicated up arrow button to change focus mode. I have only seen the bad af confirm issue so far w/ close focus subject even w/ af auto limit disabled.
I have seen the hunting mainly when light is not bright enough or contrast is not good enough even when there are both vertical and horizontal lines where I have pointed the af bracket.
Gary
Some additional comments
Sigma photo raw SW still has not crashed on me, but I suspect it is because I only use it as a raw to tiff converter. I do all my real work in aperture.
I like the way sigma implemented their quick menu system. Pretty fast to get to critical things that need to be changed. So far have not reconfigured from default.
Auto white balance when compared to Sony rx100, not as good.
Once af starts hunting or it just plain mis-focuses, ie. green confirm, but from LCD obvious bad focus, time to go to mf mode. Good thing easy to do.. with the dedicated up arrow button to change focus mode. I have only seen the bad af confirm issue so far w/ close focus subject even w/ af auto limit disabled.
I have seen the hunting mainly when light is not bright enough or contrast is not good enough even when there are both vertical and horizontal lines where I have pointed the af bracket.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I just received mine yesterday, Gary. No images worth showing, but some things are clear.
The image quality at low ISO blows me away. Clarity and presence remind me of the M8, yet the resolution and color definition is just so much better. Did some comparison test shots of flowers hand held in good light against the X-Pro 1 with 35/1.4. Whoa! Better stop doing that!
Boring technical stuff:
Batteries: I can get over 90 shots on one 1250 mAh battery (consistent so far over two batteries), much higher than some reports. I've ordered a couple of 1500 mAh batteries to see if those don't go even higher. Old batteries that worked with my Fuji F20 can be used, too (provided you cut out the slots on the battery), an added bonus!
Write times are comparable to the first generation GRD, i.e., slow! And that is with the fastest card commercially available.
No problems so far using the RAW software on a Macbook Pro running Lion. And since I was used to using RPP for M8 files, I'm already conditioned and used to the extra step. Yet files are much larger and processing slower than what I am used to.
I love the 45 fov, and will definitely add the external OVF.
Sigma put the strap attachments on the right side of the camera on the back of the top panel, less than ideal for wrist strap users. (Milich's grip might address that, if you want to go that route).
Wrist straps with metal O rings will scratch the body, as I found out so I switched to a braided spectra cord, which will hold up better than leather for outdoor use.
Without a lens hood mounted, the camera fits easily inside an Ortlieb waterproof Protect pouch that I keep mounted on my backpack waistbelt. Perfect for hillwalking, backpacking, and alpinism.
Perfect, except for the limitations of the focal length (which in its own right, I love).
The DP1M beckons... If only there were a version with a 21 efov lens!
The image quality at low ISO blows me away. Clarity and presence remind me of the M8, yet the resolution and color definition is just so much better. Did some comparison test shots of flowers hand held in good light against the X-Pro 1 with 35/1.4. Whoa! Better stop doing that!
Boring technical stuff:
Batteries: I can get over 90 shots on one 1250 mAh battery (consistent so far over two batteries), much higher than some reports. I've ordered a couple of 1500 mAh batteries to see if those don't go even higher. Old batteries that worked with my Fuji F20 can be used, too (provided you cut out the slots on the battery), an added bonus!
Write times are comparable to the first generation GRD, i.e., slow! And that is with the fastest card commercially available.
No problems so far using the RAW software on a Macbook Pro running Lion. And since I was used to using RPP for M8 files, I'm already conditioned and used to the extra step. Yet files are much larger and processing slower than what I am used to.
I love the 45 fov, and will definitely add the external OVF.
Sigma put the strap attachments on the right side of the camera on the back of the top panel, less than ideal for wrist strap users. (Milich's grip might address that, if you want to go that route).
Wrist straps with metal O rings will scratch the body, as I found out
so I switched to a braided spectra cord, which will hold up better than leather for outdoor use. Without a lens hood mounted, the camera fits easily inside an Ortlieb waterproof Protect pouch that I keep mounted on my backpack waistbelt. Perfect for hillwalking, backpacking, and alpinism.
Perfect, except for the limitations of the focal length (which in its own right, I love).
The DP1M beckons... If only there were a version with a 21 efov lens!
GaryLH
Mentor
Dp2m is not going to be your go to do everything camera, but nice sunny days, iso 100-200, the color and iq cannot be beat.
Btw the lens hoods are lh2-1 for dp2m and lh1-1 for the dp1m. Did u find one for your camera? I have one back ordered..
Have fun w/ it.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
No hood on order yet.
Have you checked your sensor yet to see whether or not it is dirty? Seems like this is one of the must-dos at the beginning.
Have you checked your sensor yet to see whether or not it is dirty? Seems like this is one of the must-dos at the beginning.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
A couple of images. No cats around, so foliage and bodhisattvas will have to do
First at ISO200
Fall by the Rhône by areality4all, on Flickr
Second at ISO400
Chenrezig by areality4all, on Flickr
First at ISO200
Fall by the Rhône by areality4all, on Flickr
Second at ISO400
Chenrezig by areality4all, on Flickr
GaryLH
Mentor
Japanese website comparison between dp2m, d800e, 5dmk3 and rx100
Japanese website comparison between dp2m, d800e, 5dmk3 and rx100
http://type-g.at.webry.info/201208/article_4.html
Just found this while browsing. Can't read Japanese, but the picture samples are labeled well enough.
Found links in a forum thread that had direct to pictures. Cut and past below from that thread
Gary
-------------------------------- paste -------------------------------
Here you go, links to the full scene original image from each camera. D800e was using the 24-120 f4, 5Dmk3 was using the 24-105L.
Its pretty interesting to open them all up in PS and play around with them a bit. The amount of you can uprez the DP2M shots and still retain good detail is pretty phenomenal.
Nikon D800e
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885578878/sizes/o/in/photostream/
DP2M
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885580906/sizes/o/in/photostream/
RX100
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885697460/sizes/o/in/photostream/
5D mkIII
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885583196/sizes/o/in/photostream/
Japanese website comparison between dp2m, d800e, 5dmk3 and rx100
http://type-g.at.webry.info/201208/article_4.html
Just found this while browsing. Can't read Japanese, but the picture samples are labeled well enough.
Found links in a forum thread that had direct to pictures. Cut and past below from that thread
Gary
-------------------------------- paste -------------------------------
Here you go, links to the full scene original image from each camera. D800e was using the 24-120 f4, 5Dmk3 was using the 24-105L.
Its pretty interesting to open them all up in PS and play around with them a bit. The amount of you can uprez the DP2M shots and still retain good detail is pretty phenomenal.
Nikon D800e
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885578878/sizes/o/in/photostream/
DP2M
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885580906/sizes/o/in/photostream/
RX100
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885697460/sizes/o/in/photostream/
5D mkIII
http://www.flickr.com/photos/type-g/7885583196/sizes/o/in/photostream/
GaryLH
Mentor
I forgot to mention.. I wish the comparison was one w/ prime lenses on the Nikon and Canon dslrs. A bit flawed of a test but still interesting.
Gary
Gary
umcelinho
Marcelo
GaryLH
Mentor
GaryLH
Mentor
Sigma, please read that again, and again, and again...
I would settle for a high quality converter to get there, similar to the one Fuji did for the x100. But on the other hand, if we are talking a 24 that is a different story
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I would settle for a high quality converter to get there, similar to the one Fuji did for the x100. But on the other hand, if we are talking a 24 that is a different story
Gary
I would take a 24, too. 28 just isn't wide enough for landscape usage, which is one of the best applications for this camera, given all its speed limitations.
BTW, first experience with B&W conversions suggests this can also be one heckuva of a monochrome shooter. Tonality at low ISO is great, while the grain at 400 and higher looks to my eyes different from other digital grain I have seen. It looks less random, and more integral to the image.
btgc
Mentor
Wider isn't mandatory better for landscape usage. Landscape as well as portraits can be very different and often 45mm FOV landscapes are more pleasing or just better looking than wide-to-superwide landscapes with miniscule details. I know, we here know how to use WA properly, I'm talking about them who don't
GaryLH
Mentor
Yep I was thinking the same thing.. Could almost be considered a poor mans Leica monochrome.
or not. Gary
GaryLH
Mentor
Wider isn't mandatory better for landscape usage. Landscape as well as portraits can be very different and often 45mm FOV landscapes are more pleasing or just better looking than wide-to-superwide landscapes with miniscule details. I know, we here know how to use WA properly, I'm talking about them who don't
Quite true...Super wides are not needed. A lot depends on the shot and what u are trying to do. I have shot landscapes with 135 and 200 lenses as well and everything in-between.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Kind of OT, but as concerns landscape, it really depends on what you intend to shoot, just like Gary says.
I love to shoot sky, so really wide is often a huge advantage.
My other great passion is for mountains. But not all mountains scenes are alike. In Taiwan, where the mountains are very steep and very tight together, a WA like 18 or 21 is great. But in Auvergne, these angles will make the Crests look flattened out and boring.
When I shoot landscape I always want a normal and a wide, and, if possible, a short tele. 21, 45 and 135 would be ideal for me. When I use a film RF, I go with 21 (or 24), 50 and 90 (the 90 is sooo much lighter than the 135).
It tells you what my priorities are that I began with the DP2M. That plus the fact that the DP2M lens/sensor combo is really stunning, not to mention the 20% discount I got by stumbling on a refurbished version. I suspect the refurbishment could have been one of those models that shipped with a dirty sensor. (Yeah, I checked, and it's clean now).
I love to shoot sky, so really wide is often a huge advantage.
My other great passion is for mountains. But not all mountains scenes are alike. In Taiwan, where the mountains are very steep and very tight together, a WA like 18 or 21 is great. But in Auvergne, these angles will make the Crests look flattened out and boring.
When I shoot landscape I always want a normal and a wide, and, if possible, a short tele. 21, 45 and 135 would be ideal for me. When I use a film RF, I go with 21 (or 24), 50 and 90 (the 90 is sooo much lighter than the 135).
It tells you what my priorities are that I began with the DP2M. That plus the fact that the DP2M lens/sensor combo is really stunning, not to mention the 20% discount I got by stumbling on a refurbished version. I suspect the refurbishment could have been one of those models that shipped with a dirty sensor. (Yeah, I checked, and it's clean now).