BW400CN
Bessamatic forever!
I don't know the Vitomatic that well - so can you please post a pic of it?
It can be the selftimer or (I´m ain´t sure if the vitomatic has had this) the flashsynchro when it is labed with X+M like the Bessamatic had (bulb and electronic flash mode)
Marco B
Member
Marco B
Member
Well, OK, I think I can now answer my own question. After receiving my MR-9 battery voltage adapter and inserting film, I was finally ready to go and gives this camera a try!
I did do some extra work on cleaning as well. Not satisfied with the cleaning of the difficult to reach yellow lens, part of the range finder mechanism, I now found a way to clean it better. Problem is, you either need a very small cotton stick or something similar, because otherwise you can not reach it in between all the metal and other parts of the mechanism. I didn't have this. To better reach it, I took an ordinary cotton stick, and flattened it with a hammer. You need the "plastic" type for this, instead of wooden ones. After flattening it, I could just insert it in between all parts, and reach both the front and back side of the pretty dirty part.
So now I have a clean and clear range finder spot / image!
As to the handle referenced in the previous post: it is indeed the self-timer. You need to cock the shutter first, than move it. Once you hit the shutter button, it starts its 8 second or so delay. The handle moves quite stiff, but worked fine (well, still need to develop the first two rolls to make sure everything is in real order!).
However, as far as I can tell, this 45 year old Voigtländer Vitomatic III CS is fully revived... The metering still seemed pretty accurate, compared to my Minolta Spot meter. I am just suspecting the metering may be off at the extreme low end (which isn't really low, compared to modern metering cells), and may need an extra .5 to 1 stop.
I am beginning to like the camera handling too. Just the shutter button is a bit awkward, even for people with ordinary hands, the positioning is to low. But the focusing, and setting of exposure, is all pretty convenient. I am especially amazed how all the exposure info (metering, shutter speed, aperture) can be read from the view finder. Despite this being an over 40 years old fully mechanical camera, the clever way it is all incorporated into the view finder simply using prisms and mirrors, is amazing.
Well, probably nothing new for most folk here on the forum, but for someone who for the first time is really enjoying a rangefinder, it is...
I did do some extra work on cleaning as well. Not satisfied with the cleaning of the difficult to reach yellow lens, part of the range finder mechanism, I now found a way to clean it better. Problem is, you either need a very small cotton stick or something similar, because otherwise you can not reach it in between all the metal and other parts of the mechanism. I didn't have this. To better reach it, I took an ordinary cotton stick, and flattened it with a hammer. You need the "plastic" type for this, instead of wooden ones. After flattening it, I could just insert it in between all parts, and reach both the front and back side of the pretty dirty part.
So now I have a clean and clear range finder spot / image!
As to the handle referenced in the previous post: it is indeed the self-timer. You need to cock the shutter first, than move it. Once you hit the shutter button, it starts its 8 second or so delay. The handle moves quite stiff, but worked fine (well, still need to develop the first two rolls to make sure everything is in real order!).
However, as far as I can tell, this 45 year old Voigtländer Vitomatic III CS is fully revived... The metering still seemed pretty accurate, compared to my Minolta Spot meter. I am just suspecting the metering may be off at the extreme low end (which isn't really low, compared to modern metering cells), and may need an extra .5 to 1 stop.
I am beginning to like the camera handling too. Just the shutter button is a bit awkward, even for people with ordinary hands, the positioning is to low. But the focusing, and setting of exposure, is all pretty convenient. I am especially amazed how all the exposure info (metering, shutter speed, aperture) can be read from the view finder. Despite this being an over 40 years old fully mechanical camera, the clever way it is all incorporated into the view finder simply using prisms and mirrors, is amazing.
Well, probably nothing new for most folk here on the forum, but for someone who for the first time is really enjoying a rangefinder, it is...
errorlogin
Love vintage Hifi, too!
Hi Marco,
just saw your postings right now, I am not so often here any more.. Very nice work, have fun with your Voigtländer!
You had luck! I really would not recommend to bend these metal clips, they can break bending them the first time. I did once with a broken, cheaper IIb. . . never again, the risk to break one of them is pretty high.
And it is possible to clean the window very well without this dissasembling.
Cheers!
Jan
just saw your postings right now, I am not so often here any more.. Very nice work, have fun with your Voigtländer!
You had luck! I really would not recommend to bend these metal clips, they can break bending them the first time. I did once with a broken, cheaper IIb. . . never again, the risk to break one of them is pretty high.
And it is possible to clean the window very well without this dissasembling.
Cheers!
Jan
Marco B
Member
Very useful Jan!
I have a couple of questions though, seeing your photo's and descriptions:
- I was surprised to see the "rubber tool"? What is it, and where do you buy these? Are there other options to remove this front part of the lens / shutter assembly?
- You mention no need for grease on the shutter and self-timer assemblies. Are these really designed from factory of to run without any kind of additional lubrication?
- You mention grease on the aperture blades, where is it coming from?
- What are the "helicoils" you mention applying grease to? Could you point these out in the pictures by marking them, or describe them better in combination with one of the pictures you posted?
I have a couple of questions though, seeing your photo's and descriptions:
- I was surprised to see the "rubber tool"? What is it, and where do you buy these? Are there other options to remove this front part of the lens / shutter assembly?
- You mention no need for grease on the shutter and self-timer assemblies. Are these really designed from factory of to run without any kind of additional lubrication?
- You mention grease on the aperture blades, where is it coming from?
- What are the "helicoils" you mention applying grease to? Could you point these out in the pictures by marking them, or describe them better in combination with one of the pictures you posted?
Marco B
Member
Btw.: is there a difference in english language between grease, oil and lube? I am always a little bit confused about that.
In german it is clear what "Öl" and "Fett" means....but I have the feeling in english it is sometimes the same?
Thank you!
I think this Wikipedia webpage explains it quite well:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_(lubricant)
As you can see, grease is actually a special mixture of an oil and a soap (= salt of a monoglyceride). Yes, a soap in the traditional sense of "soap"...
So a lithium grease has a lithium soap combined with a mineral or vegetable oil. The lithium ion is the positive ion of the lithium soap salt, where normal soaps have sodium or potassium.
Fats are generally triglycerides, that is, a combination / fusion of glycerol (an alcohol) with three fatty acid chains. A monoglyceride is combination of glycerol with one fatty acid chain.
What I never properly realized, but is explained there, is the special property of grease to become much more fluid / less viscous upon movement / shear.
richard700
Newbie
It may just need some cleaning inside like my II did -