Monochrom Focus Headache

Those that say a leica M is hard to focus, maybe haven`t realized one simple thing:
The focus window moves from left to right when starting from infinity. you can see even with a very bad vision when it is off to both sides. when you move the window to the middle, it is in focus. Don`t try to get just perfect, well off on both sides is much easier to see. Then just move the focus in the middle. It might be a little more critical with 50mm and 90mm lenses, but certainly not critical at all with 35mm and shorter lenses.
 
airfrogusmc said:
Back up for the back up for the back up. If it can go wrong at one time or another it will. Forgot to lock the tripod quick release on a 500 C/M and was going to another location on the same shoot. Put the camera and tripod over my shoulder and the camera slide right out of the tripod quick release and crashed hard on a marble floor. Luckily the film back that took most of the impact didn't bend it so bad as to cause a light leak on the already exposed frames. I had two more cameras in the case.
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That´s the reason hassy modified the quick mount to have a safety tab...
 
:bang:

IF YOU ONLY KNEW........
2WK said:
So the MM is my frst digital M, coming from an M6. I ordered it with a 50 Summilux ASPH and was very excited about this combo. I'l try to be brief.

My first day shooting, I took some portraits that I was very excited about. I shot a man from mid thigh, up and I stopped down to 2.8 to make sure I nailed focus. It looked amazing on the tiny LCD! I was very excited, until I uploaded, zoomed in and his face was soft. Actually he was all soft. His shirt, everything. Well I was bummed, but thought it must have been my nerves etc, somehow I blew it. Most of my other shots, stopped down to f5.6 or f8 looked great and I dismissed the issue, because some other closeup shots at 1.4 looked sharp enough.

A few days later I had a lookbook shoot. I used the MM for the whole thing. Cute 20 year old Italian model, her first week in the US. I took about about 400 shots. Most were probably at around 2.8. Again, all looked fantastic on the LCD...and then most looked soft on my monitor. Sometimes the focus looked like it was about 6" in front of the model. Like, the door frame would be tack sharp, and her face behind was soft. But then again, some closeups at 1.4 was nice and sharp. So, while it could have been a complete disaster, I managed to sharpen some, and salvaged the shoot....but barely. It was a high paying gig and the clients were happy, but I was not. When I focus on eyes, I want to see sharp eyes. That night I set up a a tape measure and camera on tripod. I found stange things. At 1.4 it was pretty close, maybe 1/2" off. At 2.8 it was front focusing by 6"....

On top of it all, my sensor had become completely covered with spots. And I hadn't even changed lenses once. Some say its oil from the shutter etc. Anyway, Leica told me to send it to NJ. They said they would look at the rangefinder, and clean the sensor...but that this is normal with digital cameras, its just dust. Normal? I have changed lens with my xpro in a sand storm, in a wood shop with sawdust everywhere. The fuji is clean! I know it has auto cleaning, and apparently it works great. The Monochrom sensor looked like I had been using it for 5 years, not one week.

Because I am using my camera everyday for work, they said they would send me a replacement, but then they said sorry, no loaner MM's. I said fine, send me any digital M to use. Well, they never did.

The service tech called me. I mentioned that I have been reading about the oil on the sensor problem from many reported MM users. He said that is just a "rumor". He said that since the camera is not weather sealed, micro dust can get in around the lens. :rolleyes:
Then we talked about my focus problem. I told him about the f2.8 front focusing by 6". I had even sent them the photos. Then he asked if I shot a lot at that aperture. He then said, "Why did you buy a Summilux if you aren't going to be shooting it wide open, this is what the lens was designed for and it is how they base their focus adjustments on. A rangefinder is not the perfect focusing mechanism, since it is only guessing what the lens sees, so it is difficult to adjust the lens to be precise for difference distances." I seriously can't believe he said that, and my stomach started to turn. I spent $12,000 on this combo and I can't have novelties like THINGS IN FOCUS?
He said he would tweak it best he could.

I got it back. Sensor had 2 small dust sots on it, but I managed to blow it clean. Ok. Now the focusing. At minimum distance at 1.4 it is back focusing by about an inch. At 6 feet out, it is close focusing by about 3-4".

Am I crazy for wanting "THE BEST 50mm LENS EVER CREATED" to be on point, at different distances? :confused: Is this something you Summilux ASPH owners deal with? I feel like a Summilux ASS.
At this point I want them to give me a brand new camera and lens.

I dunno... any advice? Thanks for reading all that rambling, but I had to vent, and it would fall on deaf ears with my girlfriend.
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Thank you for all the responses and advice. I spoke with New Jersey again today and asked that they either exchange the lens for me, or I would return it myself and then look for a new one that is perfect. They want me to talk to their M specialist, whom is unavailable at the moment, but he would contact me tomorrow...

This morning I ran a few more tests. I setup a tape measure about 15' out. Wide open, it is focusing about 6" in front of my target. This is completely unacceptable! Since this lens was already calibrated to my camera, I now consider it a dud. I don't want to send it back and forth. I want my moneys worth. This 50mm is more expensive than any of my other camera bodes!

Yes I do have rangefinder experience. I have used my M6 ttl for many years, along with my Mamiya 7ii, oh and a Canonet. With the M6, my Voigtlander lens has proven itself time and time again. The Mamiya, is extremely accurate.

Squareshooter, this is sound advice about having a backup. I did have my Xpro with me, I actually used it in the studio that day for my colour work. Also, a 5dmkii and D3 are always at the space. I did have some apprehension abut the Leica, so many of my shots were stopped down. And like I said, the LCD looked great and I would zoom in but wasn't sure if it was just the max resolution of the outdated LCD, or things were in fact soft. Luckily I shot each look from many different distances, angles and locations. This was my saving grace for that shoot.
 
Then we talked about my focus problem. I told him about the f2.8 front focusing by 6". I had even sent them the photos. Then he asked if I shot a lot at that aperture. He then said, "Why did you buy a Summilux if you aren't going to be shooting it wide open, this is what the lens was designed for and it is how they base their focus adjustments on. A rangefinder is not the perfect focusing mechanism, since it is only guessing what the lens sees, so it is difficult to adjust the lens to be precise for difference distances."

incredible answer!!!!

:bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:


Your aspherical lux should perform perfectly in every aperture...and you can use it in whatever aperture you want.....

the rangefiner and aspherical lenses are perfect enough to be used in either way, both WO or stoped down....
 
^Right?! I'm glad I'm not the only one put off by this disheartening expert.
Imo, f2.8 should have your subject even more in focus, and not worse than f1.4.
 
I've been shooting with the Leica MM and the latest 50 Lux lens. I do not have the problems you are mentioning. I get precise focus at f1.4 and pretty much all the way through. I had focus shift issues with the 35mm Lux pre-FLE, and that's why I sold it. Today both my 35mm Lux FLE and 50mm Lux are focusing well from f.1.4 to f4. Although it's annoying the whole calibration process, sending it in to Leica should make it OK in my experience. Best of luck.
 
Tinchohs said:
I've been shooting with the Leica MM and the latest 50 Lux lens. I do not have the problems you are mentioning. I get precise focus at f1.4 and pretty much all the way through. I had focus shift issues with the 35mm Lux pre-FLE, and that's why I sold it. Today both my 35mm Lux FLE and 50mm Lux are focusing well from f.1.4 to f4. Although it's annoying the whole calibration process, sending it in to Leica should make it OK in my experience. Best of luck.
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Yeah, I have had no problems wide open with my 35 Lux FLE and MM. Sorry to hear the OP is having the issues he's having. Hopefully it gets sorted soon.
 
apostasiometritis said:
He said he shot at a tape measurer.

That’s how I test calibration as well, with an upright pencil at say 30cm as my target; that way I know exactly how much it back/front focuses.
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I did the same with m8 when I first got one years ago. My Planar 50 was out of whack. showed straight away on the tape so I returned it. It's still not entirely scientific but if your out by 6" you may as well be out a mile.
 
I just did a tape measure test with mine MM + 35mm Summicron. At f2 from about 5ft away, mine focuses within a cm and I think any inaccuracy is my eyes, so I'm happy.
 
Oh man...you spent $5000 dollars on a 50mm lens that can't focus. Prolly coulda snatched the Voigtlander 50mm 1.5 and it woulda been spot on, and most people can't tell the difference. Or if it's not, they're in good supply so you just return it for another one and boom, done. Return your monochrom for the M240 (assuming you can find one) so you can at least check focus in real time, and have a sensor that's not based on 2006 technology from Kodak. I don't know why people who want monochrom are so unwilling to shoot film. Send it to RPL and get back beautiful scans with minimal post processing. A whole world of 'sensor' choices, and diy developing can be really rewarding. You coulda got yourself a proper fashion camera like an H1, a whole bunch of FP4+, and boom, Monocrhome. Leica's are wonderful for many things. Lookbooks are not one of them. Even my fashion photographer friend who LOVES his M8, rents a Hasselblad on the job. When people are relying on you, you often have to give up certain tools that you love to use in order to know you're getting the job done. I'd shoot all my weddings with just my Pentax 67II if I could, but for some stuff I know I need a different, more ho-hum camera that is better suited for the job (reception photos).

$12,000 dollars. I'm simply gobsmacked by that figure.
 
Also according to Leica the best 50mm lens ever created is the 50mm APO Summicron, which will be until Zeiss releases their new Planar and still manages to undercut Leica's overcharge. I'm quite fond of my ZF.2 50mm 1.4 Planar, maligned as it is, and possibly even more fond of my 105mm 2.4 Takumar, and definitely the most fond of my 300mm Caltar f5.6. "Best" is just a word, and doesn't mean anything in the world of cameras and lenses.
 
SaveKodak said:
Oh man...you spent $5000 dollars on a 50mm lens that can't focus. Prolly coulda snatched the Voigtlander 50mm 1.5 and it woulda been spot on, and most people can't tell the difference. Or if it's not, they're in good supply so you just return it for another one and boom, done. Return your monochrom for the M240 (assuming you can find one) so you can at least check focus in real time, and have a sensor that's not based on 2006 technology from Kodak. I don't know why people who want monochrom are so unwilling to shoot film. Send it to RPL and get back beautiful scans with minimal post processing. A whole world of 'sensor' choices, and diy developing can be really rewarding. You coulda got yourself a proper fashion camera like an H1, a whole bunch of FP4+, and boom, Monocrhome. Leica's are wonderful for many things. Lookbooks are not one of them. Even my fashion photographer friend who LOVES his M8, rents a Hasselblad on the job. When people are relying on you, you often have to give up certain tools that you love to use in order to know you're getting the job done. I'd shoot all my weddings with just my Pentax 67II if I could, but for some stuff I know I need a different, more ho-hum camera that is better suited for the job (reception photos).

$12,000 dollars. I'm simply gobsmacked by that figure.
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Some of my best lookbooks have actually been shot with my M6.
It is a proper enough of a fashion camera for me, and the way I like to work. I use natural light. The lookbook actually came out really nice. As I said, the clients were very happy. If the camera and lens had been spot on, it just would have made the selection process much easier.
 
2WK said:
Am I crazy for wanting "THE BEST 50mm LENS EVER CREATED" to be on point, at different distances? :confused: Is this something you Summilux ASPH owners deal with? I feel like a Summilux ASS.
At this point I want them to give me a brand new camera and lens.
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Sorry, hadn't seen this post until today.

I bought a 50mm Summilux ASPH and had the exact same problem with it, using it with three different M cameras. Anywhere from tack sharp to very sharp at f1.4 (depending on which body), but really softened up at f2.8. I ended up returning it and sticking with my 50 Summilux pre-ASPH.

Best,
-Tim
 
I actually had to send it in AGAIN! 3 times back to NJ, and the last time they had it forever. Finally, things seem to be spot on.
 
So now it will focus at f1.4, f2.0, f2.8 all the way up? Mine was good at f1.4 then got progressively worse up to about f4 then got better again.

Interesting thing, compared to my pre-ASPH 50 Lux, at f1.4 with the ASPH model the image was sharp across the whole field, but with the pre-ASPH Lux the image was only sharp in the center. At f2.0, f2.8 the pre-ASPH Lux was much sharper than the ASPH model. Then at f4 the ASPH caught back up.

Glad you got yours finally working properly.

Best,
-Tim
 
Well, late to this thread, but given that the MM is currently in NJ for front focusing at intermediate distances, with even the 35mm v4 Summicron, as well as the 75mm APO, both wide open, I read this thread with interest. Both of these lenses were spot on with my M9, so I'll have to see how this works out. Interestingly, my CV 35mm f1.2 was also front focusing on the MM, and not the M9. Maybe I should just not both with the Leica glass. I suspect it's a problem with this camera, which was in perfect adjustment one day, and out the next, without ever getting bumped. Hopefully, it will not need repeated visits for adjustment.
 
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