Rolleiflex focus screen comparison test

I've installed a Oleson screen on my wife's Rolleicord, which is brighter but I found the visible rings disturbing. Also the split prism isn't good to work with when you do not use the loupe
I have a rolleigrid in my Flex 3.5E which is kinda a good balance since the rings are less visible and I get to see the center of the frame without disturbance. It's not as bright as the replacement screens tho.
 
Hi there,

one question regarding the stock screen of the 2,8D and replacements : I really liked the way the 2,8D screen made the focused object "snap" or "pop out". Now I have a 2,8E and the screen is much dimmer and does not have this "snap" focusing.

Is there any of the replacements screens mentioned above, which offers this kind of "snap" focusing method? I think any split screen or simpilar stuff will disturb me in focussing.

I am thinking of getting the BrightScreen From Oleson cut down to my Rolleiflex 2,8E but not shure if this screen offers "snap" focussing.
 
Brightness and focusing snap work against each other. I tried a RB67 screen (the A one, which are supposed to have the best 'snap') in my Cord once and found it horrible. Yes, it was nice and bright... but very hard to focus! Compared to the old plain glass screen there was nearly no snap at all. What good is a focusing screen that you cant accurately focus? I quickly changed it back to the original screen.
 
I gotta agree with Miko. When I got a 2.8D and thought the screen was a bit dark, it needed an overhaul so I sent it in and it was recommended that I go with a Maxwell Hi-Lux screen. Once I got it back with the new screen, it sure was bright, but after about a year, I sold it because I found it difficult to focus. I missed everything else about using a TLR, so I picked up an Automat. The screen is certainly dark, but man does it pop when the image is in focus. I'm gonna stick with the original screen in this one.
 
Timmyjoe said:
I gotta agree with Miko. When I got a 2.8D and thought the screen was a bit dark, it needed an overhaul so I sent it in and it was recommended that I go with a Maxwell Hi-Lux screen. Once I got it back with the new screen, it sure was bright, but after about a year, I sold it because I found it difficult to focus. I missed everything else about using a TLR, so I picked up an Automat. The screen is certainly dark, but man does it pop when the image is in focus. I'm gonna stick with the original screen in this one.
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this is exactly what I saw on the 2,8D (stock glass screen) -> yes, it is kind of dim but it pops in so awesome...
Man, now I am asking myself where to get a 2,8D glass screen to replace the crappy 2,8E plastic screen. Any suggestions?
 
When your viewing lens is clean and you have a mint mirror, the plain glass screens aren't even that dark (in my opinion). Ok, it get's hard to see the corners in dim light interiors at night... but in such light you get plenty of other problems to care about then your screen corner illumination ;)
I also find it even harder to focus on the fresnel parts of a bright screen, all snap really disappears there.
Bright screens are maybe great if you are doing much architecture or landscape where you are working stopped down at mid to far distances, don't need to focus as precisely but you need ultimate composing precision (wouldn't be a SLR better for that anyway?). If you are shooting a lot at near distances and/or wide apertures, go with the darker & more precise focusing screens.
 
Filzkoeter said:
When your viewing lens is clean and you have a mint mirror, the plain glass screens aren't even that dark (in my opinion). Ok, it get's hard to see the corners in dim light interiors at night... but in such light you get plenty of other problems to care about then your screen corner illumination ;)
I also find it even harder to focus on the fresnel parts of a bright screen, all snap really disappears there.
Bright screens are maybe great if you are doing much architecture or landscape where you are working stopped down at mid to far distances, don't need to focus as precisely but you need ultimate composing precision (wouldn't be a SLR better for that anyway?). If you are shooting a lot at near distances and/or wide apertures, go with the darker & more precise focusing screens.
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I like your reasoning, and find that you are right at least for me. I still prefer the split screen (I have poor eyes) and the Fresnel part is never used.
 
I recently bought an older automat Rolleiflex. Even after cleaning the viewing lens, reflex mirror, and top of the focus screen, the view was super dim. I was hoping to order a standard Oleson screen, but since he was out of stock and I got the camera for a good price, I decided to go with Rick's brighter screen, which he modifies to fit older Rollies. I'll report back.
 
Is the Maxwell Optics website working ? I just get a blank page, any other way to order than by phone ?
 
It seems like my comment is invisible :D
You should at least try a Rolleigrid!
It's not a replacement but something you put on top of the ground glass. You can easily take it out and put it back in to your needs/lightning situation.
 
UPDATE: I thought I'd pop back and update one part of my original test. The screen that I say is similar to a Rick Oleson screen is no longer the type of screen that Rick Oleson is selling. The screen Rick Oleson is now selling is about the same quality of the Mamiya screen in my samples.

His screen has a large microprism center area. I have a sample on the way to me along with a Mamiya microprism screen. I will do a new comparison of various screens once these new version arrive.

Anyway, to be clear- any reference to the jinfinance screen as being most likely an Oleson screen is outdated.
 
I have a Rolleiflex T which has a plastic split image screen. I just purchased ($80) from Rick Oleson a plastic screen but this has a Fresnel focus center. I really wanted the split screen but they don't have one for the 'T'. My new screen is way better for viewing, much brighter, the focus spot is very good too. Better than my SLRs and Pentax 6x7, so I can live with the Fresnel focus.
 
charjohncarter said:
I have a Rolleiflex T which has a plastic split image screen. I just purchased ($80) from Rick Oleson a plastic screen but this has a Fresnel focus center. I really wanted the split screen but they don't have one for the 'T'. My new screen is way better for viewing, much brighter, the focus spot is very good too. Better than my SLRs and Pentax 6x7, so I can live with the Fresnel focus.
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Are you sure it is fresnel? That would be a series of concentric rings.and is a light system, not a focusing system. Microprisms are small triangles that snap in and out of sharpness with focusing. I was under the impression that Rick's screens have microprisms.

If you still want a split image screen, I have a Mamiya one for sale. But it'd be $90, a bit of a hit after already buying a nice screen from Rick. Drop a PM if you want to discuss.
 
You are probably right, I don't bother to know much about these things: camera gear, lenses, or focusing screens. I do know that the screen does have the large area with concentric rings and I suppose Microprisms is the right word. Thanks for the offer but I'm going to get used to this screen. And thanks for the correct wording on these products.
 
These newer screens are BrightScreen Branded Replacement Screens they had made up to their specification prior to Jim Lakey's passing.

These screens are quite good and inexpensive when compared to the Maxwell. Also NOT AS SOFT as the Maxwell. I use these BrightScreen in several of my Rolleiflex TLR and Rollei SL66. You will be happy with these screens. Made in Japan and not the cheap junk from jin finance in China.
 
Thanks, I hope by 'you' you meant me. So far I like it, but I haven't developed any film yet. Although by measuring the distance it seems the same as my old screen.
 
Bill Clark said:
Thanks for presenting your tests.

Just a question, how much does the mirror on each camera affect the image?
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For my test, you can assume that each camera had a clean, most likely new, mirror. I almost always put a new mirror in a camera if I have any doubts. Hmmm... thinking back, yes, each mirror in the test cameras was recent or new (six months or less).

In general I would suggest that people put a new mirror in if there is any oxidation or fogging. marty1107 on Ebay will make you any size mirror you need-
http://www.ebay.com/usr/marty1107?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754
 
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