What film developer is your favorite and why ?

John Bragg

John Bragg

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For the longest time, I used only Tri-X developed in HC-110 H and that was my thing, like many others. The problem was that Tri-X became stupidly expensive, so I shifted to Ilford HP5+, after a brief fling with Delta 400. I now use Ilfosol 3 to develop my HP5+, after the change in formula of HC-110 and its subsequent disappearance. I find it to be the best developer for me personally, since I rarely rate the film at more than ei200 and it produces images that I can't beat with other developers.

Anchors at Charlestown, Cornwall by E.J. Bragg, on Flickr

Barnacles by E.J. Bragg, on Flickr
 
Diafine.

I used to use Plus-X at EI400 in it and that was heavenly but since it's gone, it's HP5+ at EI800 now.
 
The real Rodinal. It had a super long shelf life, was corner sharpening, had good tonality and it increased grain (which I like). Current R09 developer is different.
 
santino said:
The real Rodinal. It had a super long shelf life, was corner sharpening, had good tonality and it increased grain (which I like). Current R09 developer is different.
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I hate when developers change, but in the case of Ilfosol 3, it has stayed faithful to the original and just keeps better.
 
I'm still using HC-110 ... it takes me an eon to use up a bottle of HC-110 concentrate, I think I've been using this one since 2006. I find it does the job nicely with most any film I've used. Might try using something else when I finally finish up this bottle... :)

G
 
Godfrey said:
I'm still using HC-110 ... it takes me an eon to use up a bottle of HC-110 concentrate, I think I've been using this one since 2006. I find it does the job nicely with most any film I've used. Might try using something else when I finally finish up this bottle... :)

G
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That's my experience too. I opened a bottle in 2011 and still using it. When it runs out I might give DD-X a try.
 
Until the early 00s Edwal FG7
Now Rodinal (for anything below 100) due to the lovely tonality and control with dilutions/agitation
and DDX/Microphen for faster films, small grain and full tonality with the option of pushing
 
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HC-110 with a bottle from around 2010. I process everything one shot at 100:1 stand for 60 minutes with 4 inversions at the start and again at the 30 minute mark. Works great with all the films I tend to shoot (Foma 100, 200, Kentmere 400, TMAX 100/400) and lets me process it all together.

50850643913_120d26cf97_b.jpg


Fomapan 100
 
shawn said:
HC-110 with a bottle from around 2010. I process everything one shot at 100:1 stand for 60 minutes with 4 inversions at the start and again at the 30 minute mark. Works great with all the films I tend to shoot (Foma 100, 200, Kentmere 400, TMAX 100/400) and lets me process it all together.
...
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I do similarly ... but different concentration and timings. HC-110 @ 1:49 @ room temperature (70-75°F) @ 8 minutes (5 sec 'tipping' at start, 1 'tip' every 30 sec thereafter). The biggest exception is Ferrania P30, cut the rating to ISO 40, and go to 1:99 concentration, process for 16 minutes. Seems to work for me. :)

G
 
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Adox Rodinal is a favorite for some films; HP5 and Fomapan 100 look great with it. I started using TMAX (developer) when I found that Rodinal doesn't work well with Kentmere 400 and now it's also a favorite. Haven't tried any version of HC110 though, and I know that many swear by it.
 
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Agree with this: T-Max 100 and 400 look awesome in Rodinal.

I switched to Xtol. I like the results - for my workflow. I presume that it’s slightly kinder to the world, as well. Plus, if I want to push film (which I rarely do), it can do a good job with that.
 
I'm using D-76 right now, but I've bought two 1-liter packages of ID-11 recently that I'll use once the D-76 is gone. I shoot mostly TMax 100 & 400 and Delta 400. However, I've been hearing good things about Xtol though. I wonder if there's a vendor of that stuff nearby (Kingston, Canada)..

..Avery
 
I recently tried Ilfotec HC and found it was not exactly analogious to HC-110. I need more time to experiment, but the grain isn't as pleasing.
 
D-23.

Two ingredients that are very easy to mix so I always have fresh developer.

Works great with every film I currently use with the possible exception of Adox CMS 20 II. And it may work with that film as well but I just haven't tried it.

Easy to adjust its' working character through dilution, temperature and agitation, or any combination of those.

Seems to work very predictably whether I'm using a tray, doing inversion or rotation development.

I am sure there are others that have similar working properties but this is the one I have settled on for most of my work.

I am also working with Caffenol since the ingredients are very easy to acquire and mix but so far I have not learned it as well.
 
HC-110 here, too, mainly for its cost and shelf life. Always with HP5+. I like D-76 a little more and use DD-X for occasional pushing, but usually end up throwing out much of both because they expire before I use them all. They make me appreciate HC-110’s workhorse quality.

John
 
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Pioneer said:
D-23.

Two ingredients that are very easy to mix so I always have fresh developer.

Works great with every film I currently use with the possible exception of Adox CMS 20 II. And it may work with that film as well but I just haven't tried it.

Easy to adjust its' working character through dilution, temperature and agitation, or any combination of those.

Seems to work very predictably whether I'm using a tray, doing inversion or rotation development.

I am sure there are others that have similar working properties but this is the one I have settled on for most of my work.

I am also working with Caffenol since the ingredients are very easy to acquire and mix but so far I have not learned it as well.
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Sounds great. Is it very much like Perceptol, but wirhout the sodium chloride ?
 
Retro-Grouch said:
Am I allowed to say e6 with Ektachrome? ;)
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Absolutely. Which E6 developer is your favorite. I picked up some Cinestill the other day but I have never used it before. The last time I used the Arista E6 1 Quart Kit and it worked pretty well. I think the Cinestill kit is a little different.
 
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