visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
WTF, why does your M4 have a battery cover on the front?... or Why does you M6 have and M4 top plate?
shimo-kitasnap
everything is temporary..
I wanted ttl metering but with a brass top plate and all metal hardware but didn't want to spend the money for an MP......oh and flare-free optics package from DAG too, it's our little secret. As for the M3, I can't decided if I want to keep or sell it.
wontonny
Well-known
How much did it all cost you for the top plate switch and the flare free optics?
shimo-kitasnap
everything is temporary..
the flare free optics was $190, brass M4 top was $100, and I had a bunch of other stuff added like M3 levers, M4 rewind crank, additional x-sync, M4 speed dial + adapter to make it work on M6 chassis. Also had all M6 satin hardware replaced with polished chrome parts. All together including labor which was about $125, everything was $700. Yeah I know it's a bit much but I got the M6 for about $1k and if you add that all up it's still cheaper than an MP. And hey it's almost like a one-of-a-kind and doesn't look nice and new which is what I was going for.
I'm in the process of thinning out, going one body only and 3 radically different focal lengths, all in one bag that's it. I just want to shoot now that my quest is finally over.
The brass top plate give the 6 a vintage sound, more like a 4,3 or 2. It's still quieter than my M3 at all speeds for some reason.
Think that last thing I need to add is griptac and maybe a rapid winder.
I'm in the process of thinning out, going one body only and 3 radically different focal lengths, all in one bag that's it. I just want to shoot now that my quest is finally over.
The brass top plate give the 6 a vintage sound, more like a 4,3 or 2. It's still quieter than my M3 at all speeds for some reason.
Think that last thing I need to add is griptac and maybe a rapid winder.
visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
It sounds great
One question: did you have Don change any framelines? Are they the M6 set?
I'd steer clear of griptac. Rather, I think the CameraLeather "Levant Black" real leather covering is great. I have it on my M4 and it's the bomb! It looks good, feels good and even smells good. Griptac IMHO just looks tacky.
shimo-kitasnap
everything is temporary..
I left the M6 lines in in case I decided that I need a 75mm, 90mm or 135mm in the future. I have lizard skin on my M3 and it's not as nice as it was on the day I put it on. I used to have a griptac covered canon P which was a blast to use especially in hot weather. Also griptac is really cheap.
photobizzz
Speak of the Devil
martin-f5
Well-known
visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
Nice shots Martin. Nice cameras, too!
kingjon
Established
benno
Hack.
I know I've already posted a pic of my camera but I feel like posting this one up as well.
Matching lenses:
Matching lenses:
mmikaoj
eyemazer
digitalintrigue
wow that looks wicked! I am planning to paint my M2 too..
Was it hard to do it? Ive heard it is much easier to just paint top and bottom plates, as you dont have to remove selftimer and all the other stuff.
How much harder was it to paint it all like you did?
Did the mechanism inside still work afterwards, when you had put the winding and selftimer and everything back on or did you have to send it for a CLA?
wow that looks wicked! I am planning to paint my M2 too..
Was it hard to do it? Ive heard it is much easier to just paint top and bottom plates, as you dont have to remove selftimer and all the other stuff.
How much harder was it to paint it all like you did?
Did the mechanism inside still work afterwards, when you had put the winding and selftimer and everything back on or did you have to send it for a CLA?
Avotius
Some guy
My M6TTL with 35 summicron v3
Hard? Well, once you paint a few it becomes slightly easier. This particular camera had pitting in the top plate; you could see bits of brass coming thru the plating. So it took quite a bit of time to deal with that, without messing up the engravings.
Painting just the top and bottom plates takes less time, yes. Many of these old cameras have been taken apart a few times and some parts are gouged and damaged (like the self timer and preview lever retainers), and it doesn't look that good with a new new coat of paint when the other parts are chrome pieces that have seen a difficult life.
Erik's camera has new body shell screws and new accessory shoe screws (all 5) to replace the old unsightly ones. When everything else is new, those old parts tend to stand out.
Like any paint job, its the prep work that is time consuming. Stripping the plating leaves a lot of residue which must be removed prior to painting. Sanding works but takes forever, so I use special equipment.
This camera went to Youxin for CLA prior to the paint job. No issues with removing and replacing the self timer for paint work.
Hope this helps.
This particular camera had pitting in the top plate; you could see bits of brass coming thru the plating. So it took quite a bit of time to deal with that, without messing up the engravings.Painting just the top and bottom plates takes less time, yes. Many of these old cameras have been taken apart a few times and some parts are gouged and damaged (like the self timer and preview lever retainers), and it doesn't look that good with a new new coat of paint when the other parts are chrome pieces that have seen a difficult life.
Erik's camera has new body shell screws and new accessory shoe screws (all 5) to replace the old unsightly ones. When everything else is new, those old parts tend to stand out.
Like any paint job, its the prep work that is time consuming. Stripping the plating leaves a lot of residue which must be removed prior to painting. Sanding works but takes forever, so I use special equipment.
This camera went to Youxin for CLA prior to the paint job. No issues with removing and replacing the self timer for paint work.
Hope this helps.
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naos
23 Skidoo
Looking good my friend. How does she shoot?
Avotius
Some guy
Very smooth, actually, maybe a little too smooth. Either this lens or my film is really a pain in the neck to get right. I am leaning more to its the film problem then the lens. A low contrast set up to be sure though. My color results were sort of iffy. I think the Biogon or a more modern summicron might have been a better choice but I will use it and see what I can do, its too early to tell, I have only run about 7 rolls through the lens.
maddoc
... likes film again.
M6TTL 0.85x with Summicron-C . Thanks to Paul (PCB_RF) and Tony R. (popflash-photo).
... and yes, I like the red dot
Cheers,
maddoc
. Thanks to Paul (PCB_RF) and Tony R. (popflash-photo).
... and yes, I like the red dot
Cheers,
maddoc
shimo-kitasnap
everything is temporary..
Oooohhhh that's looks so awsome! I can't wait to get a cron-c or rokkor to go on my franken M6/4.
to go on my franken M6/4.
