Erik van Straten
Mentor
That you cannot change the speed on an S2 when the shutter is cocked, is nonsense. Of course you can. Cocked or not, you can always change the speed, in a very convenient way.
That the S2 has only frames for 50mm is an advantage. If you see more than one set of frames in the viewfinder at the same time, you should always check which one to use. That is extremely irritating. That's the big mistake on the S3 and the SP. The best is the viewfinder of the Leica M2 that always shows only one frame. The S2 always indicates only one frame, 50mm. The chance of making a mistake is therefore much smaller than on an SP or S3.
Erik.
Erik van Straten
Mentor
gelatin silver print (s skopar 50mm f2.5) nikon s2.
Erik.
Erik.
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
Had same dilemma recently and I went with S3, mainly for 35mm framelines- they are not perfect but you can shoot with both eyes open and then it's great for street. I handled S2 long time ago and I remember it was surprisingly heavy, S3 feels just right especially with small 35mm lens (now I use J-12 but already ordered W-Nikkor 35/1.8).
Erik van Straten
Mentor
Probably you tried an S. The S2 is very light, 18 oz. The S is 23 oz, a heavy burden.
The S2 has an 1:1 finder, you can use both eyes at the same time.
Yes, the S3 has a 35mm frame, but in a 1.0 finder. A 35mm frame in a 1.0 finder is no pleasure, much too big. A Leica M2 has a 0,7 finder, a much better choice for a 35mm frame.
Erik.
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
weird, I clearly remember the 1:1 finder with 50mm framelines, dim rangefinder path and the weight. But it was long time ago...
well yes but actually no, S3 viewfinder is so bad I like it, because again with x1.0, 35mm and both eyes open you "feel" where the framelines are.
The life-size vf with 35mm frames is what I like most about the S3. But now after having all models including 3 of the re-issues, I have an S2 with a 35mm external vf. 
Whichever one you get, just make sure you inspect it carefully. There is a wide variation in RF patch contrast on these older cameras. Ones that I have owned ranged from invisible (one SP) to very usuable/contrasty (many vintage copies) to super contrasty (the three reissues, 2 S3 and 1 SP.)
The Silvering of the RF prism in the Nikon RF's can deteriorate, as it can in all old cameras. I have a dim RF patch in 1 (of 5) of my S2 bodies and in 1 (of 2) S4 bodies. I removed the Mask from the RF windows and this greatly improved usability.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I take exception with your saying that I'm talking "nonsense." In all my exchanges here I have maintained a civil tone. In any event, I am simply repeating what I read. I think even the manual says it. In any event, while I had an S2 body with the 5cm f1.4 lens I remembered that particular rule of not changing shutter speeds under some circumstances. If you want to refute it, there are better ways to say the same thing.
BTW, with regards to the original question... in my humble opinion, it's an S3, hands down.
Erik van Straten
Mentor
gelatin silver print (s skopar 50mm f2.5) nikon s2
Erik.
Erik.
Erik van Straten
Mentor
Yes, that is a funny effect, maybe you can get used to that. But that will take a long time. Personally I've never understood why Nikon made this finder, maybe they did it to make something "different". However, it is always possible to put a Leitz SBLOO in the the accessory shoe of the camera. The old black Nikon 35mm accessoryfinder is great too.
Erik.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Here is the Nikon S2 manual easily readable without downloading or paying:
https://www.nikonweb.com/s2/nikon_s2_manual.pdf
On pages 5 and 6 you can see that either slow or fast speeds can be set after winding the shutter and the advantage is that both indicators are aligned. There is no prohibition on setting a speed after winding. It also mentions the fast speeds can be set before winding.
https://www.nikonweb.com/s2/nikon_s2_manual.pdf
On pages 5 and 6 you can see that either slow or fast speeds can be set after winding the shutter and the advantage is that both indicators are aligned. There is no prohibition on setting a speed after winding. It also mentions the fast speeds can be set before winding.
Erik van Straten
Mentor
I'm not saying that you talk nonsense, but the opinion you've read somewere that the shutterspeed on an S2 can not be changed when the shutter is not tensioned, is nonsense. It is however not very wise that you repeat an opinion that you didn't check yourself.
In the middle of the shutter speed selector (a disk that turns around when the shutter releases), there is a small disc with an arrow engraved on it. That arrow indicates the shutter speed used and with that arrow you can also choose a shutter speed again, even if the shutter is not yet cocked. The disc can be lifted and turned until the desired time is indicated by the arrow. When the disc is then released, the desired time is set.
Erik.
Page 5 of the Nikon S2 Manual: There are Two shutter speed indicators. Use the outer indicator for setting the shutter speed after it is wound. Use the Center indicator for setting the shutter speed before winding the shutter.
Do NOT set the shutter speed on a Zorki or FED before winding it. Mine jammed up, but was able to fix it. So- First Hand Knowledge.
Do NOT set the shutter speed on a Zorki or FED before winding it. Mine jammed up, but was able to fix it. So- First Hand Knowledge.
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
I believe that's not the case with the FED 2 and Zorkis 5 & 6, all of which have a similar setup to the S2's shutter speed dial. All the others... yeah. Wind first, set speed second.
Good to know!
My Zorki-3M and Fed 1 had problems with it. The Zorki- before I knew about the issue, the Fed 1- bought it for the Rigid Industar-22 on it, "forgot" about the problem. I ended up taking it apart and giving a partial CLA, so it worked out. Easy camera to work on. The Industar-22 Rigid is uncommon.
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
I think all the Zorkis with slow speeds are problematic - they regularly seem to jam up completely. It's a shame, because the 3M is a particularly lovely-looking camera. The FED 1 should be pretty bulletproof, though; it's basically just a Leica II with a few tweaks.
paul in AZ
Member
Before we drift too far into Soviet-land, back to Nikon.
I've been looking up and down the price scale and there is a risk of sticker price creep. Is the viewfinder of the SP sufficiently better than s2 or S3's to justify the price differential?
I've been looking up and down the price scale and there is a risk of sticker price creep. Is the viewfinder of the SP sufficiently better than s2 or S3's to justify the price differential?
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Erik, I didn't refer to an opinion but a fact. Brian already pointed out what I mentioned. I also had an S2 body and that was the only drawback (in my opinion) it had.
paul in AZ
Member
Poking around on E-pray I'm impressed by the number of cameras described as "mint" or 'near mint' that have mention of fungus. Seems like half of the listings have it. Hard to visualize a 'mint' or 'near mint' anything that has fungus growing in it.
Is this a common Nikon problem? Progressive? Treatable? Or just to be avoided?
Is this a common Nikon problem? Progressive? Treatable? Or just to be avoided?