The way East (Caucasus/Central-Asia/Mongolia on a motorcycle)


Fine tracks to ride, most of them over 4000m of altitude makes them even better.


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Mountain bliss.


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Pamirs are mostly rocky and rugged. On the steep slopes rock avalanches are a norm (the white stripes on the mountain)
 

The Sisters made us a fine fried fish originating from a nearby lake situated at a staggering 4000 meters above sea level in one of the harshest places
in the whole Tajikistan where blizzard winters can easily drop to -50C. I thought fish can't live on those conditions and altitudes. They really know their stuff!

Wow! Just wow! All of your photos are excellent but this one jumped out. Really timeless portraiture. I've ordered the book. Someone mentioned a comparison of your work to Thesiger's and I think that's right on. Please keep posting!!
 
Amazing shots...

Wow! Utterly amazing! Thank you for posting!
Paul

Amazing pictures in this thread!

Yes, like another planet.

Amazing photos, and really interesting trip! Thanks for sharing these.

Gentlemen, I thank you!

Been away a bit attending a newborn family lately, but I still pop into RF time to to time (if I get time) :)

Wow! Just wow! All of your photos are excellent but this one jumped out. Really timeless portraiture. I've ordered the book. Someone mentioned a comparison of your work to Thesiger's and I think that's right on. Please keep posting!!

Massive thank you for such a kind words!

Hopefully you'll like the book!

Take care,
Margus
 

Taking non-existant tracks to pin our way out of the valley. Altitude around 4200 meters above sea level.



Each direction the Great Pamir landscape changes dramatically.
 
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As the valley got wider it was harder to follow the non-existent tracks. Seasonal river crossing were particularly hard.



Soon a snowstorm was chasing us. Snowing in middle of summer is no news in the high Pamirs.
 

This valley is claimed to be the coldest inhabited place in Tajikistan, ferocious winters can hit down to -60C. Summers are nominally windy.


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Refueling with dirty fuel. Toilet paper inside the funnel sorted out many iron particles from the rusty canisters they hold the fuel in.
Refuelling is always a bit skechy on remote areas. Thankfully we have oldschool low-compression motorcycles that run well on dirty drinks.
 
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Donkey power is a preferred transport in GBAO part of Tajikistan, he really wanted to follow us to see the bikes but the donkey couldn't keep up.
He sat on the very back to get more speed out of his bone powered machine, but it still wasn't enough. So we just stopped so the boy could
take a good look on us and the bikes. He was so happy and we got a pic in exchange.



Old mosque in Murghab, the place for a short supply before heading out again deep into the mountains.


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A boy with his grandfather who was so keen to show his boy our bikes and have a chat how things go in the ex-Soviet bloc countries and how
different paths they've gone. A man in search of wisdom that the young can learn from.
 

High altitude desert. It's surprising to find that some people prefer to live here.



Arid and harsh high-altitude desert at 4200 meters above sealevel.
 

At 4000 meters in a mountanous desert you really must plan your housing for permanent living. Winters can get down to -50C,
add ferocious winds and snowfalls to super dry summers, and you get a house like this.



There are few toys to play with at 4000 meters above sealevel where only grass grows at best. But they get to play with the non-plastic real-fesh "barbies & kens" while
taking care of their younger siblings.
 
Margus,
I love your photography! Such amazing work!
I always imagine to look at your beautiful slides life, on a light table with an excellent slide loupe, or even in projection, where transparency film is absolutely unsurpassed (we are doing slide projection here at home regularly, it is a league of its own).
Viewing on a computer monitor looks crappy compared to lighttable / projection.

Nevertheless, of course please keep on posting here!
 

Taking non-existant tracks to pin our way out of the valley. Altitude around 4200 meters above sea level.

Margus,

Just spent a wonderful Sunday morning slowly going thru this thread again, what a delight. Such lovely imagery, such a wonderful adventure. Thanks so much for keeping it going.

One quick question. As a rider, the image above is one of my nightmares. Are you using GPS or how are you navigating when you find yourself with "non-existing tracks" and in the middle of infinite space?

Best,
-Tim
 
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