Why everyone needs a Widelux! (or two)

This is one of the cameras I wish I could rent to find out if it worked for me at all. I love the results from people who use it well but have a suspicion that I wouldn't like my own photos with it. :)
 
Hi everybody, my name is Roberto new in this forum. I am wondering if anybody of us have filters for a widelux F8 to sale. Hope to have some news very soo. I'll appreciate.
best
Rob
 
Hi everybody, my name is Roberto new in this forum. I am wondering if anybody of us have filters for a widelux F8 to sale. Hope to have some news very soo. I'll appreciate.
best
Rob
Hi Roberto,
I have a set, but not for sale. They come up on ebay from time to time... usually 100-150 USD. That would be your best bet.
 
A better comparison would be Horizont 202 versus Widelux. Is there an observable difference?


Yes. Widelux images take in a wider angle of view. I also concur with X-Ray. The older Horizonts were very crude. In winding them, you felt every tooth engaging. The internals looked like they were produced in the gulags by whatever metals they had laying around.
 
Just scored myself a F7 for $400 AUD in Melbourne's Camera market last week.

Upgraded from Old Horizont (not the 202 model), it feels smoother and the speed is consistent.

Will post up some comparison soon when I got my negs developed.
 
The prices of the FVI seem much better than the F8.....can someone comment on the differences etc between the 2 models?

Thanks
 
The prices of the FVI seem much better than the F8.....can someone comment on the differences etc between the 2 models?

Thanks

I think the focal length is a little different and I've read that the gear arrangement that controls shutter speed via the lens swing is a lot more reliable and robust.

I like the look of the early ones though ... I'm not fussed on black cameras and that crinkle black is a little twee for me! A simple satin black would have been nicer IMO.
 
Just scored myself a F7 for $400 AUD in Melbourne's Camera market last week.

Upgraded from Old Horizont (not the 202 model), it feels smoother and the speed is consistent.

Will post up some comparison soon when I got my negs developed.



That really is a very good price. Hopefully there won't be any banding issues ... shots with a lot of cloudless sky show it up very quickly.

My F7 bands very slightly under such conditions but not enough to justify the three hundred dollars for a CLA in the states at one of the two places that seem capable of the work.

One day I would like to get a cheapie and tear it apart for a looksee! :D
 
One of my favorite cameras.

Images from the "Exhibition" section of my website (colincorneau.com) are all with a Widelux F7. I can certainly attest to the tack-sharp nature of its lenses...I used TMX for the most part and easily made 20 inch wide enlargements in the darkroom.

One thing I really liked about the camera was it didn't really look like a camera - this made it easy to use subtly on the street, etc. and I always used the bubble level and arrows to approximately line up my shot...worked great, really.

I also liked how stripped down and simple it was - three shutter speeds, not much more aperture choices...less really is more.

Totally love this camera.
 
Why did I click this thread? :)

I always knew I wanted one of these, but I kept telling myself I was fine using the pano adapter for my Mamiya 7II. After looking at these nice comparison shots, I thought I would check out what was available on ebay.

I don't normally buy impulsively, but I bit on the old, pretty nice looking Kalimar branded one (with a cracked VF) - that was somewhat cheaper than most. ( I kinda like the idea that it was badged Kalimar - the cheapest crap I had ever seen back when I was even broker than I am now; I was surprised that they partnered with Panon!) We'll see how bad it is in a few days - I should be able to return it if it needs too much and hopefully I will be able to take some shots this weekend to test things out!
 
The XPan and various 6x12 and 6x17 flatback panorama cameras can be quite attractive but they also seem rather silly when you can simply crop from a far simpler and less expensive conventional camera. Granted they are more compact and elegant bodies and you might save some money on film but you'd have to shoot a heck of a lot pans to make up for the extra thousands they cost. Still, if someone offered me a beater Linhof 617 like Koudelka uses... you see those for about $2500 on eBay.

I don't think a cheap Widelux that needs service or it will band is much of a bargain. Same for taking the Russian Horizant gamble... I've had a couple older Horizants and one of the new plastic ones and, if they are in good shape, then you feel like you got the deal of the century... and then the next roll the dang thing will destroy your film. Both default to near infinity focus wide open... the Horizant is supposedly focused at 50m but given the quality control, who knows? I've added layers of tape to the inside rails to move the focus point closer for portraits, it will work until Kommrade Horizant decides to take a Vodka holiday and chew up your film's spocket holes ;-p

The reason I'd want two Wideluxes is so you can alternate which one goes in for service on a regular two-year cycle ;-p They are the most German of all the Japanese cameras, they need regular pre-emptive service just like Rolleis, Leicas, etc.

In the end, the electronic motorized Noblex - with servicing from a good tech like precisioncameraworks.com - is the most reliable. With the better models you can even focus and add a vertical shift, as well as do infinitely longer exposures. Still, at the closest and wide open you can only get 3/4 portraits in focus. But again, they need steady regular service - they have that many more moving parts compared to your straight cameras. One trip to a sand beach on a windy day can be very expensive, ask me how I know this!

In other words, if you want to go cheap and take a risk and only shoot >10m scenes, get the cheap Horizon 202 or the Lomo/Urban Outfitters version. But if you want to do professional quality work then get a serious camera (or two) and budget hundreds annually for routine maintenance.

Rotating lens panoramics are one of the more challenging things to master, it is very easy to make a wide shot and so hard to make an interesting shot.
 
The XPan and various 6x12 and 6x17 flatback panorama cameras can be quite attractive but they also seem rather silly when you can simply crop from a far simpler and less expensive conventional camera. Granted they are more compact and elegant bodies and you might save some money on film but you'd have to shoot a heck of a lot pans to make up for the extra thousands they cost. Still, if someone offered me a beater Linhof 617 like Koudelka uses... you see those for about $2500 on eBay.

I don't think a cheap Widelux that needs service or it will band is much of a bargain. Same for taking the Russian Horizant gamble... I've had a couple older Horizants and one of the new plastic ones and, if they are in good shape, then you feel like you got the deal of the century... and then the next roll the dang thing will destroy your film. Both default to near infinity focus wide open... the Horizant is supposedly focused at 50m but given the quality control, who knows? I've added layers of tape to the inside rails to move the focus point closer for portraits, it will work until Kommrade Horizant decides to take a Vodka holiday and chew up your film's spocket holes ;-p

The reason I'd want two Wideluxes is so you can alternate which one goes in for service on a regular two-year cycle ;-p They are the most German of all the Japanese cameras, they need regular pre-emptive service just like Rolleis, Leicas, etc.

In the end, the electronic motorized Noblex - with servicing from a good tech like precisioncameraworks.com - is the most reliable. With the better models you can even focus and add a vertical shift, as well as do infinitely longer exposures. Still, at the closest and wide open you can only get 3/4 portraits in focus. But again, they need steady regular service - they have that many more moving parts compared to your straight cameras. One trip to a sand beach on a windy day can be very expensive, ask me how I know this!

In other words, if you want to go cheap and take a risk and only shoot >10m scenes, get the cheap Horizon 202 or the Lomo/Urban Outfitters version. But if you want to do professional quality work then get a serious camera (or two) and budget hundreds annually for routine maintenance.

Rotating lens panoramics are one of the more challenging things to master, it is very easy to make a wide shot and so hard to make an interesting shot.

You couldn't have posted this before I clicked "Buy" Frank!! ?? At least I can take comfort in the fact that I have likely bought bigger money pits in my day!
 
Cropping a negative is not the same as a dedicated panoramic camera. And a swing-lens model is completely unique.

Certainly, it's no bargain if you get one that needs extensive repairs - it's an arcane way to make a picture, but when it's on it's really on.

By the way, Jeff Bridges (the actor who has used a Widelux to make a book of on-set images from each of his movies that he's worked on) has done some of the most interesting things I've seen with a Widelux.
His website has some very good hints and tips on owning this peculiar piece of hardware...definitely recommend it.
 
Cropping a negative is not the same as a dedicated panoramic camera. And a swing-lens model is completely unique.

Certainly, it's no bargain if you get one that needs extensive repairs - it's an arcane way to make a picture, but when it's on it's really on.

By the way, Jeff Bridges (the actor who has used a Widelux to make a book of on-set images from each of his movies that he's worked on) has done some of the most interesting things I've seen with a Widelux.
His website has some very good hints and tips on owning this peculiar piece of hardware...definitely recommend it.



And the other benefit is the user experience ... not to be discounted IMO.

I find shooting with a Widelux very rewarding ... and developing the film and hanging it to dry is always a buzz because I'm never totally sure what may be on the negative. :)
 

I like Jeff Bridges' Widelux photos quite a lot and they are inspirational how they are authentic and loose... unlike 99% of the other pans you see, they have people in them, usually spontaneously posing (i.e. not stiff). Most aren't technically perfect and that actually helps rather than hurts.

On the other hand, I bought the McDuff Everton book and was bored to sleep... and he is a well-regarded travel photographer who specializes in pans, he had a monthly feature in the Conde Nast Traveller (or was it Travel & Leisure?) with a "guess where" photo of some exotic location... and even though he travelled the world, the big wide colorful and sharp pans were pretty dull.

It's really hard to shoot good panoramic photos!
 
My old Kalimar Widelux arrived today and it seems to be in very nice shape.

Cosmetically it looks great and it seems to run very smoothly, but it has a cracked front VF glass - though I understand that the VF is really not the most useful anyway. I am anxious to try it out this weekend and look for banding, lightleaks, and any NSA backdoors. But for now I am practicing loading the film - after I master that it is on to the Rubik's Cube!
 
My old Kalimar Widelux arrived today and it seems to be in very nice shape.

Cosmetically it looks great and it seems to run very smoothly, but it has a cracked front VF glass - though I understand that the VF is really not the most useful anyway. I am anxious to try it out this weekend and look for banding, lightleaks, and any NSA backdoors. But for now I am practicing loading the film - after I master that it is on to the Rubik's Cube!



The tortuous path the film has to follow is quite intersting. I recently used a roll of Neopan in my Widelux and one thing I've noticed about Neopan is the light trap is very tight which some cameras really don't like.

I actually managed to strip some sprocket holes advancing the film towards the end of the roll!
 
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