tennis-joe
Well-known
The XA2 was my main camera and I gave it to my son. He took it to Galveston and drove off after leaving it on the roof of his car. I later purchased an XA3 and an XA.. loved those small cameras.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I traded my last film camera, a Contax IIIa, for an XA-2 in the 90's, and never really took to it. My daughter carried it to Europe after graduating, she didn't have success with it either. It is still in a drawer, I put a battery in it about once a year and exercise it.
Should I give it another try? I think I will sell it when I get around to selling some lenses and stuff here.
Should I give it another try? I think I will sell it when I get around to selling some lenses and stuff here.
helen.HH
A smile & a wink…
Fantastic series !
Beautiful Compositoons & Light
Yum to the first One ...
A Bronze Winner turns Gold~
Beautiful Compositoons & Light
Yum to the first One ...
A Bronze Winner turns Gold~
cz23
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Thank you, Helen. Much appreciated.
Mt. Mitchell, NC., the highest point in the USA east of the Mississippi. I have no idea what the two guys are doing. - John
Mt. Mitchell, NC., the highest point in the USA east of the Mississippi. I have no idea what the two guys are doing. - John
cz23
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I've been meaning to try XP2 in HC-110. A few from the roll. Not much of a fan. They look muddy to me, and I much prefer the look of Tri-X. - John
petronius
Mentor
I really like what you do with this XA2 John!
cz23
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XA2 | Tri-X
FujiLove
Well-known
Ektar 100:
Kodak XX:
Kodak XX:
cz23
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FujiLove, wonderful color palette in the first one. And glad to see some contributions here besides my own.
John
John
FujiLove
Well-known
Thanks John. The first was taken in Burano, Italy.
I was using the camera just this morning, finishing off a roll to be developed this evening. Your thread reminded me what a great little camera it is. I'm often tempted to buy an XA, but then I see how much they cost these days, and more importantly, how great the XA2/3 is...and I feel much less inclined to bother
David Hughes
David Hughes
York Minster, Olympus XA2
FujiLove
Well-known
Expired Konica Centuria 200
FujiLove
Well-known
Tmax 400
tbhv55
Well-known
I'm very glad to see this. I've got a roll of T-max 400 in my XA2 at the moment. It's the first roll of this film that I've put through it, so I hadn't seen any results yet - until your post. Very nice... I'm greatly encouraged!
Some excellent images in this thread - it would be great to see some more.
cz23
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I've always shot Tri-X, but I've got T-Max 400 in my XA2 at the moment as well, inspired to try it by the T-Max thread. I'm a pretty slow film shooter but will post some when I get there. Hope you do the same.
John
John
FujiLove
Well-known
I'm very glad to see this. I've got a roll of T-max 400 in my XA2 at the moment. It's the first roll of this film that I've put through it, so I hadn't seen any results yet - until your post. Very nice... I'm greatly encouraged!
Some excellent images in this thread - it would be great to see some more.
Thank you.
I shot a few rolls of T-max 400 in my Xpan earlier this year, and it's now become my favourite B&W film in 135 format. I love the detail it captures, and there's just something about it that works for me. I guess I like the spectral response.
Anyway, I've just posted a couple of images in the Pano thread so you can see what I mean (compressed by Flickr unfortunately). I'm currently using replenished XTOL, but I don't think the developer has a huge effect on the final result.
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2830452&postcount=1600
tbhv55
Well-known
Likewise - film slows me down a lot by comparison with using digital (which is just one of the things I prefer about it).
I've just got set up for home developing, and either T-max 400 or HP5 will be my first attempt.
(I have HP5 in another camera, and it will depend upon which roll is finished first).The developer I have is Ilford Ifosol 3. I've no idea whether this is good or bad for T-max and/or HP5, but it's what I got from my suppliers. As a developing 'newbie', I'd welcome any hints on getting decent results (i.e. avoiding problems), from anyone with experience of using Ilfosol 3, in combination with T-max and HP5.
TIA.FujiLove
Well-known
tbhv55
Well-known
Thanks - I'll have a look at the Pano thread, as you suggest.
I really like the quality of the images using T-max in the XA2, and I'm looking forward to seeing how mine come out. I just hope I don't mess up on my first attempt at developing!
FujiLove
Well-known
Likewise - film slows me down a lot by comparison with using digital (which is just one of the things I prefer about it).
I've just got set up for home developing, and either T-max 400 or HP5 will be my first attempt.
The developer I have is Ilford Ifosol 3. I've no idea whether this is good or bad for T-max and/or HP5, but it's what I got from my suppliers. As a developing 'newbie', I'd welcome any hints on getting decent results (i.e. avoiding problems), from anyone with experience of using Ilfosol 3, in combination with T-max and HP5.
Ilfosol 3 is an excellent developer, and you won't go far wrong if you follow Ilford's data sheets. Just watch how long it lasts after opening (6 months?). Definitely stick with 'one shot' developers, and get used to one type if you're new to home development. Experiment when you feel like you understand what you can do with that developer otherwise it gets really confusing. Everyone has their own favourites, so it's very easy to become distracted and convince yourself some other film/developer combination is 'better' than what you're using.
A few tips off the top of my head:
1. Keep everything spotlessly clean.
2. Use separate measuring jugs, cylinders etc. for the different chemicals and mark them with a permanent pen.
3. Stick with the manufacturers times, temperatures and agitation, until you know what you're doing and have a reason to do something different. Don't assume people on Internet forums know better than Ilford!
4. Snip off the film leader before processing your film and use it to test your fixer. Pour some into a clean tub and dip the film in. Time how long it takes for the emulsion to go clear. Multiply that time by 2, and that's your fixing time. If my fixing time is more than five minutes, I throw it out and mix a fresh batch.
5. Don't get rinse aid (or stabiliser if you end up doing colour processing) on your film reels. It makes loading the reels very difficult. Instead, after fixing and washing, take the film out of the tank (still attached to the reel) and put the final water with rinse aid into the tank (you only need a few drops of rinse aid - don't use too much). Remove the film from the reel and carefully immerse it into the rinse aid. Be careful not to scratch the emulsion. You're only coating the film, so you don't need to agitate it. Hang it to dry, then dip your first two fingers in the rinse aid so they are just damp. Run them gently down the length of the hanging film in one smooth motion to remove excess liquid and prevent drying marks. Don't use a squeegee: one day it will scratch your film.
6. Buy a film retriever so you don't have to mess about with tin openers in the changing bag!
7. I find beer helps. In your mouth, not the dev tank.
This temperature conversion chart is very useful if you're developing film on very warm or cold days: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Temperature-compensation-chart.pdf
Ilfosol 3 data sheet (with times for T-max etc.): https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/726/product_id/542/
Edit: Here's the link to Ilford's learning zone which they have recently updated with some great new content: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/category/learning-zone/