New to Me Minolta Autocord

Hi Dan,

your camera is a Seikosha MX model. I like the griptac leatherette, definitely helps in holding the camera when you have gloves on.

One last thing I forgot to mention. You asked earlier what you can do to keep from having problems with your camera. When you are finished with a roll of film and want to remove the film, please make sure that the film crank is up in the start position (basically where the film crank tab is). If you open the film door with the film crank not in the start position there is a chance that the frame counter won’t reset because the film interlock is riding against the frame counter gear and it will drop down into the frame 12 slot. You haven’t damaged anything, just the frame counter won’t reset and the next roll of film you put in the camera won’t stop, it will just wind all the way through the camera. So, just remember to have the film crank in the start position before you open up the film door and then the frame counter will reset correctly.



regards,

karl
 
Autocord history

Autocord history

I first used an Autocord around 1968, owned by a roommate. I wasn't impressed, but I was 35mm and fast lens crazy at the time. Skip to around 1995. I was offered a "like new" Autocord by my local shop. I did resolution chart tests on that Autocord, Rolleifles T, Yashicamat 124, and Ricoh Diacord. The common theme was that they all had Tessar or Tessar copy lenses. Autocord was the hands down winner of that comparison, followed by an almost as good Rolleiflex/Tessar, then the Discord. The Yashicamat was less sharp and had lower contrast by a large margin compared to the others. In the early years of its production, the Autocord focus lever was made out of cheap pot metal and would break off if hit. Contra others here, it is not broken off by opening the film back. it's just that it is exposed to breakage if left in a mid-focus position, but protected by the body if at infinity or close focus. Minolta corrected later models by using a piece of spring steel to connect the focus knob to the focus helix, as it could flex if hit but not break. For years, the kiss of death for an Autocord was a broken off focus knob, as no replacements were available. In the last 10 years, we've had a cottage industry revival of after-market focus knobs, so no longer a problem.
 
. I did resolution chart tests on that Autocord, Rolleifles T, Yashicamat 124, and Ricoh Diacord. The common theme was that they all had Tessar or Tessar copy lenses. Autocord was the hands down winner of that comparison, followed by an almost as good Rolleiflex/Tessar, then the Discord. The Yashicamat was less sharp and had lower contrast by a large margin compared to the others. .


I do think that the Autocord lens is simply a better Tessar-type formulation (or execution). Still, to be fair to other lens makers, the Autocord has the advantage of a bomb-proof lens mounting. You pretty much have to destroy the camera to get the lens to be out of alignment or go out of sync with the focus screen. All of the other cameras mentioned can have lens mount and focus system go out of alignment and synchronization. Even the Diacord, with a similar helical focus system, has nowhere near the robustness of the Autocord. And the YashicaMats, well, so many have been used hard and the basic mechanics are simply not to the same level as the other cameras you mention.


Nokton, you'll love the Autocord, especially after Karl gets done with it. If only every quality camera had someone like Karl keeping them alive.
 
That's great. Looking forward to seeing your results.
I just got a new to me Autocord as well, after I foolishly sold mine last year. I bought it from Karl, it is a seikosha import model.
 
Karl says I also have the seikosha import model. Highly desirable :)

That's model no 2 on cameraleather website. Might order some Griptac, will have to see.
 
Karl says I also have the seikosha import model. Highly desirable :)

That's model no 2 on cameraleather website. Might order some Griptac, will have to see.

Yeah, the Seikosha shutter is very stable. It has a rounded 10-bladed aperture. On later shutters the cocking mechanism was changed which causes some strange stresses both internally and in the external cocking cam action.

And I'm a big fan of Griptac in general, and on Autocords in particular. I also like the Op/Tech pro loop strap system. There are thinner loops that go through the strap lugs. The loops make the rest of the strap fall away from the focus hood, similar to what the Rollei Alligator clips do. You can take the center section out and clip the two connecting parts together and get a nice wrist strap. I can spend a day carrying an Autocord in one hand, and again the Griptac gives such a secure grip.

Still, I recommend that you use the camera without Griptac for a bit and see how it handles. Some of the Autocord coverings were very nice. Some are dried out and so hard and slick that I find them dangerous.

And get a lens hood. A cheap plastic one is better than nothing. The lens is sitting out there so near the front that a lens hood makes a nice bumper.
 
Lens hood is ordered. Karl says he replaced the front cover, so I'll want to try that for now.
I have a lot of black Domke Gripper Straps so I'll start with that.
 
med_U45148I1381465515.SEQ.4.jpg


Mine was in very good shape when I got it for around $200, and gave perfectly good images like this, with less fuss than the Rolleiflex 2.8D I valued more but used less.

After my wife died (she is writing a cancer treatment update in this portrait), I sold it for a nominal amount to a young woman acquaintance who wanted to take up medium format film. (I did something like this with a couple of other cameras, getting them into the hands of younger women photographers, to honor my dead wife who was well-known as a feminist anthropologist.) I hope she earns the Autocord, in the sense that those posting here will appreciate.

If I sell that 2.8D — now with a Fleenor CLA — I’d replace it with another Autocord.
 
I also looked at a NICE 2.8 Xenotar Rolleiflex, it went for $400 at the auction.

I also think I will use the Autocord more than any Rollei.
 
You will find a soft shutter release button will make it nicer to shoot. Without one I am often pressing the shutter speed dial instead of the shutter release, and end up having to look at the front of the camera to find the shutter before taking the pic. With the soft shutter I can find it by touch.

My only problem is the smallest shutter release button is a no name one and it a little too big as it slightly interferes with the shutter speed dial when it is at 1/500 sec.

Does anyone know of one that completely clears the shutter dial?
 
Good info about Autocords. Keep it coming! Camera will now be delivered today.
I will reload it with HP5+. Had to take that out and respool it in the dark before sending to Karl.
 
I also looked at a NICE 2.8 Xenotar Rolleiflex, it went for $400 at the auction.

I also think I will use the Autocord more than any Rollei.


This statement caught my attention. I, too, am more inclined to use my Autocord than my Rolleis, for the following reasons (in no particular order):


1. Exceptional Tessar-type lens,
2. Straight path from film roll to film gate, only bent over a roller after exposure,
3. Dead-accrurate built-in zone/semi-spot meter,
4. Admiration of the Minolta brand,
5. Other reasons that don't occur to me at the moment.


Why would you use your Autocord more than a Rollei?

- Murray
 
I'm onboard with 1 & 2. I've sometime bought of "upgrading". I'm a big Zeiss fan. Also a fan of especially older German build quality.

But my authored lens leaves little be be desired. And sometimes it takes me quite a while to finish a roll so the straight film path is appreciated.

Chip


1. Exceptional Tessar-type lens,
2. Straight path from film roll to film gate, only bent over a roller after exposure,
3

Why would you use your Autocord more than a Rollei?

- Murray[/QUOTE]
 
Got a nice Autocord myself but just realised I can’t get a strap for it. Mine has the lugs on the side.

Paul
 
Got a nice Autocord myself but just realised I can’t get a strap for it. Mine has the lugs on the side.

Paul


Paul, you have one of the late model Autocords. I have two of them, myself, and fortunately I got the neck strap with each. They are hard to find, but they occasionally show up on eBay.


- Murray
 
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