Polaroid Thread

Thanks Ped! And I see what you mean, it does take very clear, detailed photo's, light leaks don't have a place there!!. Any suggestions on what to use to seal the leaks? I've read different things on other sites, and have tried electrical tape (don't really like it causes the bellows to be too big to fold down). I've also read about people using automotive gasket sealer? And black RTV?

HoodedOne: why is your border pink instead of white? I'm just curious ;)
 
AZSunGod said:
I just got a Polaroid Land Camera 100 (all the fixiin's with it too, flash, bulbs, cable release, pleather case, leather strap) and have been shooting with the Fuji FP-3000B, such a great film I might add, I love the contrast you get with it. I scan the negatives once they dry and invert with my scanner software, then do my adjustments in Lightroom 4. My question for you guys, did you repair any light leaks or just leave them for a more nostalgic look? I think I need to repair mine since it's fairly significant. Also how do you adjust the front lighten/darken knob to get an image that isn't overexposed? I've even tried turning the knob all the way to the dark setting and am still getting slightly overexposed images ( I correct it in Lightroom...) Here's an example of the light leak..

polaroid_test_2_by_randomav1-d50eqae.jpg
Click to expand...

Congrats on the auto 100! That was my first, too. After using it for a while the light leak got worse. I was about to repair the light leak with black liquid tape when I got an auto 250. So, I never found out if liquid tape would have worked.

Not sure what your other settings were when you got overexposed shots. In general, if you're outdoors, be sure you have the yellow tab set to outdoors, and your speed wheel at 3000. One time I forgot to set it back to 3000 from 300, and it was way too bright.

The L/D setting I've used is usually 2 notches lighten for when the temperature is cool (F50 degrees). It helps somewhat from getting a dark blue tint on the color film. I've found the L/D setting is good for smaller adjustments, whereas the outdoor/indoor (flash) tab are for major adjustments.

Hope some of this helps!
 
HLing said:
Congrats on the auto 100! That was my first, too. After using it for a while the light leak got worse. I was about to repair the light leak with black liquid tape when I got an auto 250. So, I never found out if liquid tape would have worked.

Not sure what your other settings were when you got overexposed shots. In general, if you're outdoors, be sure you have the yellow tab set to outdoors, and your speed wheel at 3000. One time I forgot to set it back to 3000 from 300, and it was way too bright.

The L/D setting I've used is usually 2 notches lighten for when the temperature is cool (F50 degrees). It helps somewhat from getting a dark blue tint on the color film. I've found the L/D setting is good for smaller adjustments, whereas the outdoor/indoor (flash) tab are for major adjustments.

Hope some of this helps!
Click to expand...
That does help. I'm pretty sure I had it set to the outdoor setting, and 3000,but I will double check that to make sure!! And it's summer here in the gateway to hell...aka Arizona so I guess I need to figure out what will work best in the heat for the L/D knob setting.

And the color polaroids are pretty cool, is it random on the color that comes out?

Nighstar: I went to see if Impossible project had the chocolate anymore and they are out :( such a nice looking film!!
 
I fixed my light leak with some liquid electrical tape, took apart my rangefinder and cleaned it (I can see now!!), it's like a whole new camera!! Here's a test shot after I fixed the bellows :)

can_i_help_you__p1scan_by_randomav1-d52l16s.jpg
 
The Polaroid 150 conversion is not hard, I use a hacksaw and files. Mind do not have that professional look but they work fine. The 150 does not have the lens of the 110's but i get about the same results. And a whole lot cheaper:^) The 100 backs are cheaper to get but they have to be converted to fit. One of the major conversions guys bought a converted 110A from me, Im sure he dressed it, maybe even reworked it.

zzpza those are some great looking images, is that the FP-100c?
 
zzpza said:
I shall have to look into that myself! :)



The top is FP-100C Silk, the middle two FP-100C and the bottom is 664.
Click to expand...

I love the colors on the middle two, and the bottom one is just great, really nice shots all the way!!

I just bought a #583 close up kit for my 100, can't wait to get it and try it out. Still debating wheather or not to get the #581 portrait kit and the cloud filter...I also found a really cool site that has a lot of info on polaroids, even breaking them down to clean and what not, I think anyone that has a polaroid or is going to should check this site out!! http://www.instantoptions.com/
 
Thank you to the OP for starting this thread. I just got interested in the Polaroids and located a 420 at a flea market for $15, still in the case with the flash unit, flash cubes and original Eveready 3 volt and AA batteries. I got a fresh battery and some FP 100C and have been shooting this weekend.

When a friend saw my 420, he told me he had one from his uncle that he would give me. It is a 360 with the flash and charger. I know the issues with the Fuji film so I may send it off to Landcameras for a refurb and modify.

So what is the chosen way to digitize the Polaroids? Haven't used my scanner in years so it is probably full of dust. Maybe I will just use the macro lens and DSLR. The problem I am having is that I am giving away the prints before I scan...
Pete
 
3rdtrick said:
Thank you to the OP for starting this thread. I just got interested in the Polaroids and located a 420 at a flea market for $15, still in the case with the flash unit, flash cubes and original Eveready 3 volt and AA batteries. I got a fresh battery and some FP 100C and have been shooting this weekend.

When a friend saw my 420, he told me he had one from his uncle that he would give me. It is a 360 with the flash and charger. I know the issues with the Fuji film so I may send it off to Landcameras for a refurb and modify.

So what is the chosen way to digitize the Polaroids? Haven't used my scanner in years so it is probably full of dust. Maybe I will just use the macro lens and DSLR. The problem I am having is that I am giving away the prints before I scan...
Pete
Click to expand...

With he color film and even the black an white, keep the negative. From what I've read you can bleach the color negatives to make it an actual negative to scan. Here's a link on the procedure
http://filmphotographyproject.com/pjcs-almost-foolproof-guide-extracting-negatives-fuji-100-c

Keep in mind the bleaching is only for color photos, not the black and white.
 
i've been using a nikon v1 and a pentax takumar 50mm macro,.... not amazing but its quick, gets the job done, and is good enough for flickr.
 
I won an SX-70 on eBay and I'd like to give the new Impossible film a try. Does anyone know if Impossible film for the SX-70 can be shipped safely in HOT weather? Or is there anyone in Texas who has had Impossible film shipped to them in the summer? How did it fare?

It's likely the film would spend quite some time at temperatures in the upper 90's or even low 100's during shipping and delivery to Texas. If cool temperatures are needed for shipping, I'll wait until the late fall to order.
 
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